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73 Javelin brake and suspension project |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Does anyone have a good photo of exactly where the original/proper combo valve mounts on a 73 Javelin?
I had to cut the lines to remove the original pressure differential switch, and I have a valve I went through and cleaned up and checked over.......... but want to put it where it should be or where the factory put it if at all possible. The TSM shows "sort of" but not enough detail to know how HIGH or how LOW on the inner fender it goes. I can tell that it goes as far back as practical - or at least the pic in the TSM appears that way......... Any good pictures of the combo valve placement? I assume two bolts - nuts to the wheel side or the engine side? |
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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Only picture I could find so far. I am still looking.
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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Ok, found this. 1974 but the same as 1973. Bolts on the inside.
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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Ok, poor attempt at enlarging it.
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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AHA! I wondered - it seemed to me that the valve itself couldn't be level if the holes were level - because the holes in the valve are not even - the rear mounting hole is above the internal valves where the front is below. These photos show me that the valve isn't level, but the mounting holes appear to be.
Still in my shop on the little chromebook but once I get to a larger computer I bet those will show me what I need. Thanks.
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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My pleasure Bill. Most of the Javelin pictures I have are from a 1974 car but the good news is the 1973 cars were almost identical.
Close enough for government work as they say. Be happy to help out any way I can. Check the TSM on bleeding the brakes. The differential valve pin needs to be pull outwards, of course they had a J tool, while you are doing the bleeding. Edited by pit crew - Mar/18/2018 at 4:10pm |
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Interesting to note that with the short line coming from the combo valve rear port and connecting to the main longer line to the rear brakes, AMC may have been able to use the same rear brake steel lines for disk and drum brake cars even though they used a different valve and location. That short line did two things - made it far more easy to connect the line to the rear - do it before mounting the valve, and then use the coupler to connect to the main rear line which still comes up in the same location at the firewall with either brake system. Clever - easier to connect, was able to use the same rear steel line.
On the pin - that's the metering valve portion which restricts pressure to the front brakes until the pressure in the rear builds up to a certain point - this was supposedly to ensure the rear brake return springs had been overcome before the front brakes could receive pressure and apply. It's especially important using pressure tank type bleeding or certain other means as you'll get nothing to the fronts if there's not enough rear pressure. We used to have a small spring clip made for that purpose - it slipped over the pin as you squeezed it, and then once over the pin you release your finger pressure and it held the pin out so you could bleed - it opened the metering valve and held it open. I don't know what ever happened to that tool - I'll either buy or make one since I do this sort of thing enough anyway and was used to having that little spring clip tool handy in decades past. Bolt heads in the engine bay? Interesting - that puts the nuts and threaded portion in the wheel well - subjecting the nut and threads to salt, road spray, etc. Odd - but for factory assembly it does make sense - stick the bolts through the valve, then onto the fender and then the nuts are put on from the underside and tightened up. It was likely easier at the factory that way. Thanks for the photos, etc. - very helpful. Now I need to mark for and drill holes.......... I measured the sway bar at 15/16" - she's a large one. Now to order the bushings. Oh - left strut bracket painted up and reinstalled, new lock nuts, etc. and left strut in place with new bolts and nuts. Edited by billd - Mar/18/2018 at 8:37pm |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Well it appears that AMC made two small "dimples" or dents where the holes would be for mounting the combination valve for front disk brakes. Once I got the old pressure differential switch out of the way and cleaned things up down there, removed the old line to the right front wheel, etc. I found two small very well made dings about where Pit Crew showed the valve may mount. I stuck a couple of long sheet metal screws through the holes in the valve just so I could hold it up and look to see where the ends of those screws lined up and - nice - the screw tips touched the dimples dead-center and with the valve pretty much were the pictures showed it should be.
Ah, but they are made to be drilled from the ENGINE SIDE- UGH, I don't have a teeny little drill that will fit down in there or a right-angle drill to get between the inner fenders and the engine/headers to drill. So I'll see if I can get my Dremel down in there and at least make eighth inch holes so I can see from the OTHER side where to drill. The dimples don't show through the under coating and stuff on the wheel side. So wish me luck - if I can work a Dremel in there even with the flex shaft I'll drill where those two pings are so I can tell where to drill from the other side. Then on to starting to make and run brake lines while the paint dries on a couple of other parts for the left side. |
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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If the dremel is not going to work out but you have a little room for a hammer swing there is another method.
Those hard, short, blue, furniture tacks - hold them with a pair of needle nose pliers and try piercing the sheet metal. Those little suckers are hard and sharp. Usually doesn't take much to pierce sheet metal with those. Have even pushed them through with a block of wood and a pry bar - more coordination required - like that third had we were suppose to be born with. A right angle drill, and here I thought you had everything:) Good luck, looks good.
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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What is it with those darn engines always getting in the way?
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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