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removing driveshaft on 64 american

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 9:35pm
Originally posted by graewolf graewolf wrote:

Thank you tomj! I was about to pull mine to replace the seal. What size are the wrenches you used? And did you find a seal that worked? Thanks in advance.....


the wrenches: i bought a pair fairly inexpensively, "fuller" brand, from amazon. they were hard to find -- simply because searching the size, i think it's2-3/8", but measure --  turned up mostly tiny little wrenches! they're nice things have on the wall too.

alas, as far as i know there are no seals that fit. direct replacements are long gone. i never found a solution -- i replaced it with a narrowed mustang 7.5" axle (they're cheap, everyone thinks they need the 8"). even autozone has parts for that.

mine wasn't leaking (though it was only a matter of time...). even the driveshaft was worn out; the cups were loose in the cast yokes.

i have two of these boat anchors down here, free to anyone who wants them. both ratios (std and twin stick). new axle bearings and flawless brakes. in los angeles. obviously gotta be local to get them. i will likely scrap them this year.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 9:39pm
as far as tightening it goes, i finally got mine to stop slipping when i chopped an access hole in the pan to get it from the top -- up on a lift would do but i dont have one -- as 300 flt lbs of torque is not easy to generate even with a pair of 36" long wrenches.

there are a number of Nash design left overs in this car to remind you of just why it was they were failing and needed to merge with Hudson... and not one speck of Hudson technology survived the merger, so Nash had the good stuff.

the unibody design is pretty great, it's a marvel. its light and very very stiff.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 12:36am
the rear end I replace mine with because I went v8 was a 8inch ford out of a maverick it fit perfect but a this point I think that might be hard to find
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/20/2018 at 6:36am
It's held on that way because the pinion gear is the same as used in the bigger Ramblers with torque tubes and slip couplings at the rear -- just one u-joint at the front. Pinion bearing preload is set by a nut under that cupped seal shield and stepped seal. Which reminds me -- that seal is darned near impossible to find. The metal housing has a step in it to clear the pinion bearing nut, and is no longer made. 65 was the last year for that design. I've often thought about making a seal adapter. Piece of tubing to fit where the original seal did in the housing, straight out then another piece of tubing to hold a seal that fits the pinion shaft. Would have to ditch the seal protector, but a lot of drive shafts are missing those. They were just crimped on, and could be knocked loose by road debris. When it started "ringing" due to being loose, many just cut it off, or it comes off when the shaft is off.

When you pull the driveshaft by taking the u-joint apart the car must be supported by the rear axle. If the axle is hanging the driveshaft moves forward enough to bind against the transmission. As long as weight is on the axle (or tires if you have a drive-on lift/ramps/pit) it can be done easy enough. I use a block of wood against the shaft (make sure it's against the very end, not the tube itself) and knock the shaft over to drive one cap off, then carefully pull the cross back into the opposing cap and drive it off. Helps to have the axle on jack stands so you can turn one tire and rotate the shaft where needed.
Frank Swygert
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