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Exhaust diverter valve open or closed?

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990V8 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Exhaust diverter valve open or closed?
    Posted: Jan/20/2018 at 1:14pm
In the fuel/exhaust section of the TSM there's a side-on illustration of the diverter valve, the one that sends the exhaust through the intake manifold while the engine warms.

Lever up - closed
Lever down - open.

But what is open or closed? Is it the exhaust or the diversion?

I ask because the lever on mine is always Up. It never moves, even though it's free to do so.

If it's going to stay in one position, I'd prefer a longer warmup and a free exhaust so the carb doesn't overheat.

So where does the lever need to be? Up or down?

Ivor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jan Phersson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2018 at 2:13pm
Just start the engine. Have some one checking exhaust pipe while moving lever. Then you will find out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2018 at 4:49pm
Haha.
Cunning plan.
But it has a single exhaust.

Ivor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jan Phersson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/20/2018 at 11:18pm
Hahahaaa.
Just get under the car, the temperatute of the tubes before the Y will be different.

Originally posted by 990V8 990V8 wrote:

Haha.
Cunning plan.
But it has a single exhaust.

Ivor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2018 at 8:03am
the valve it controlled by a thermostatic spring . yes lever up is closed and as things heat up it open by weight of the pendulum lever
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2018 at 6:43pm
It depends on the year and engine. Some manifold heat valves work in reverse. I assume you are talking about your 327 V8. Their manifold heat valve is closed in the up position and open in the down position. The thermostatic spring pulls the valve up (closed) but loses tension as it heats up, so the weighted arm slowly moves down (open) by gravity. Exhaust flow also acts on the butterfly valve inside to help push it open (down).

Your valve that is free to move but always stays in the up position is likely caused by it being installed in the wrong direction on the exhaust manifold. It is most likely upside-down, but could also possibly be turned around so that the weighted arm is facing in the wrong direction. Either way can make it so that gravity is pulling the valve shut rather than open and exhaust flow is pushing the valve shut rather than open. It must be installed so that both the weight and exhaust flow push it open.

One more example in how cars get screwed up by people. The worst thing that can happen to a car is people. 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/23/2018 at 8:46am
Another cunning plan is to remember that somewhere..... I have a remote point-and-shoot thermometer.

So, I start up and almost immediately the crossover is at 80F and rising. The exhaust pipe is nearer 60F.
Pretty soon, the crossover is over 100F.
Push the lever down, although it's free it doesn't want to fall by itself, now the crossover goes down to 70F and the exhaust is rising past 110F. After three minutes or so, I stopped.

I left it down. Not all the way down I don't think, it jams somewhat and I could probably tap it further. A bit of heat below the carb won't hurt.

Could be why the car didn't like to idle a long time in traffic. The fuel in the float chamber must have been near boiling.

Another little problem solved. The power of the forum.

Ivor

Edited by 990V8 - Jan/23/2018 at 2:07pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/23/2018 at 10:00pm
Just soak the shaft of the valve with some kind of penetrating oil and keep working it back and forth. It will loosen up. It needs to move freely.

The service instructions were to spray the shaft with graphite oil every 12,000 miles, but people never did, so the valves seize up. Fortunately yours is still moving somewhat so there is hope for it still.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/24/2018 at 5:53am
Back in the day, AMC marketed an aerosol Heat Valve Lubricant for such purposes.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/25/2018 at 8:12am
Sounds like the thermostatic spring is gone too...
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