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Help!!! fresh rebuilt won't start.

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S Curry View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S Curry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 3:28pm
Wished I could edit my post. Line up TDC and timing marks on the #1 piston.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by Jay68SST Jay68SST wrote:


About the 10 degrees advanced advice.  I have already tried that.  I've set the timing mark on the balancer @ the 10 degree mark (advance/Before TDC) and set the rotor exactly on the #1 location on the cap.

According to what you have posted. You have not. Your method is not accurate, it is an approximation. As I said in my first post, ''You may be further off than you think."

The method I described is sure fire. It will verify with proof that the timing is where it MUST be. Now you can move on to starting by adding fuel with the knowledge that the timing is in fact where it must be.

If your cam and lifters are new the engine will be slow to start because there is no oil in the lifter. It will fire but will need to run a few seconds for them to fill and begin to run normally. It needs all the help it can get by having the timing well within the ballpark. Dead on is better. The method I'm suggesting will verify it is in fact dead on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 10:51pm
Originally posted by Jay68SST Jay68SST wrote:

...About the 10 degrees advanced advice.  I have already tried that.  I've set the timing mark on the balancer @ the 10 degree mark (advance/Before TDC) and set the rotor exactly on the #1 location on the cap.


If you have the point style OEM distributor in the engine, and you are confident the harmonic damper TDC mark is accurate, with the engine off, set the mark on the damper to about 10 degrees advanced on the timing scale.  Hook up a test light to the distributor lead.  With the timing rough set as you did, with the ignition on and the engine off, rotate the distributor against rotation until the test light comes on.  This will set your timing to within a degree if done carefully.  I always set initial timing with a point distributor using this method.  Eliminates all the screwing around on initial fire.  Shoot, Volkswagen set their timing like this for decades.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2018 at 7:57am
If your timing is in question, pull all of the plugs out and time the engine by turning it over with the starter. Set it at TDC or slightly advanced. Put the plugs back in and start it. If it doesn't start, there is another issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2018 at 8:32am
Originally posted by tached_out tached_out wrote:

Originally posted by Jay68SST Jay68SST wrote:


About the 10 degrees advanced advice.  I have already tried that.  I've set the timing mark on the balancer @ the 10 degree mark (advance/Before TDC) and set the rotor exactly on the #1 location on the cap.

According to what you have posted. You have not. Your method is not accurate, it is an approximation. As I said in my first post, ''You may be further off than you think."

The method I described is sure fire. It will verify with proof that the timing is where it MUST be. Now you can move on to starting by adding fuel with the knowledge that the timing is in fact where it must be.

If your cam and lifters are new the engine will be slow to start because there is no oil in the lifter. It will fire but will need to run a few seconds for them to fill and begin to run normally. It needs all the help it can get by having the timing well within the ballpark. Dead on is better. The method I'm suggesting will verify it is in fact dead on.

On my initial post, I said i set the timing at 10 degrees before TDC and set the rotor at #1 spark plug location.  I just haven't used a timing light yet to check, which I will be doing this weekend.  So far every time before trying spin the oil pump with a drill to prelube.  I get 20-25 psi oil pressure with a drill.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2018 at 8:55am
Originally posted by SC397 SC397 wrote:

If your timing is in question, pull all of the plugs out and time the engine by turning it over with the starter. Set it at TDC or slightly advanced. Put the plugs back in and start it. If it doesn't start, there is another issue.


And use a TIMING LIGHT for crying out loud..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/10/2018 at 8:57am
Originally posted by SC397 SC397 wrote:

Originally posted by SC397 SC397 wrote:

If your timing is in question, pull all of the plugs out and time the engine by turning it over with the starter. Set it at TDC or slightly advanced. Put the plugs back in and start it. If it doesn't start, there is another issue.


And use a TIMING LIGHT for crying out loud..

Going to this weekend.  Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/11/2018 at 9:22pm
What is the compression like?
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmax Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/11/2018 at 9:46pm
how did you adjust your valves/lifter pre load? are your rocker arms adjustable or just torque down style?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 7:48am
Originally posted by Greyhounds_AMX Greyhounds_AMX wrote:

What is the compression like?

Compression is 10.8:1, I am using the flat top pistons out of a 343. Everything else is pretty much stock. Bore, hydraulic lifters, rockers and stock length pushrods.
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