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Help!!! fresh rebuilt won't start. |
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dbomb 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Jul/22/2012 Location: new jersey Status: Offline Points: 705 |
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 Posted: Jan/04/2018 at 12:19pm |
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Not to scare you but best to keep a fire extinguisher ready
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rebuiling 73 amx need parts
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Jay68SST
AMC Apprentice 
Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Posted: Jan/04/2018 at 3:45pm |
Always do! Been so darn cold outside I have the radiant heat on and the overhead door open just to try and get it running.
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scramboy
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Joined: Apr/12/2009 Location: new york Status: Offline Points: 456 |
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Posted: Jan/04/2018 at 4:18pm |
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IIRC a Hei distributor needs 12v all the time I think a Delco gets 12 only in the start position and goes to approx 10 in the run position. Maybe why it tries to start. Experts correct me if I'm wrong.
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Jay68SST
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Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 10:51am |
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Had a little time yesterday to try and get my engine started. I took out the aftermarket HEI Distributor. Cranked the motor to get TDC compression stroke #1 piston Dropped in the OEM distributor with rotor pointing towards #1 spark plug. Connected all wire to coil also checked for power going to the coil. Installed plug wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Turned on electric fuel pump and waited for a few seconds. Checked to make sure the carburetor was fueling by moving the accelerator on the carburetor and saw fuel being sprayed into intake.
When I turned key to start the engine briefly came to life (less than a second) and then just cranked over not trying to fire at all. Rotated the dizzy to the left tried to fire and the engine again just for a instant fired up then it just cranked with no attempt to fire up. Finally it go to the point where it would just only crank. I turned the distributor back to initial settings and started to rotate the dizzy to the right. And it would do the same but after rotating the dizzy approximately 1/4 turn it still wouldn't start. It did seem like it wanted to start better rotating the dizzy to the right, though. Next step this weekend will be: 1. Take the spark plugs out and valve covers off. Going to verify the correct position of the valves while rotating by hand, also try and find a compression tester to check compression for each cylinder 2. Again look at the intake and carburetor to make sure no vacuum line and all ports have lines or plugs. Any other recommendation before I pull off the timing chain cover to verify I installed the cam and timing chain correctly? Again, thank you all for you input!
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Lyle
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Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 11:48am |
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90 degrees (1/4 turn) is 2 whole firing order numbers off,
360 degrees/8= 45 degrees. I think you are making too much adjustment, recheck
your firing order clockwise starting at #1. If you have an old distributor drill a ¼” hole between #2
and #1 and rotate your distributor so you can see half the rotor towards #1.
This should be near 10 to 15 degrees initial advance and a good place to start.
Center to the hole would be 22-1/2 degrees initial advance if you have a
radical cam. If the balancer timing mark is not correct in advance position doing
this then your cam gear is not installed correctly. If the timing mark is good then try a start. But distributor
adjustment is a small rotation. |
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tached_out
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Joined: Feb/08/2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Status: Offline Points: 328 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 1:01pm |
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You are all over the place with your timing. STOP
Before you wipe out your new cam or even worse cause a fire. You need to verify your timing is close enough for the engine to start and immediately come up to break in rpm. Better still take the time to get it dead on. At this point you should NOT be adding any fuel to the equation. You have an electric fuel pump. This makes it easy. Leave it of. The carb should be dry so there's no chance of the engine starting or casing a fire. Simply put the timing light on the engine while you crank it over. Check to see where the spark is occurring. 10 degrees is a good starting point. Make adjustment. Check again to verify. Now you can move on with confidence that spark timing is where it needs to be. I mentioned this on page one of this thread. With all the advice you're getting perhaps you didn't notice. |
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Jay68SST
AMC Apprentice
Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 2:14pm |
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That is exactly what I am not wanting to do and why I am worried. Don't want to wipe my cam and burn my car up.
I haven't had the chance to do the timing light yet as I am usually by myself, will need to make a remote starter to do the timing light and turn the motor over. About the 10 degrees advanced advice. I have already tried that. I've set the timing mark on the balancer @ the 10 degree mark (advance/Before TDC) and set the rotor exactly on the #1 location on the cap.
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SC397
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Joined: Apr/30/2009 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 5476 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 2:16pm |
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Does your timing set have 3 keyways in the crank gear or 1?
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Jay68SST
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Joined: May/23/2016 Location: Arcadia, KS Status: Offline Points: 189 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 3:06pm |
Just 1 keyway
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S Curry
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Joined: Aug/16/2012 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 598 |
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Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 3:26pm |
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Does it die after releasing the ignition switch and in the run position? I set initial timing this way. Verify TDC at the piston location and timing mark on the balancer. Back the crank up to 5 degrees advanced on the timing marks. Pull number one plug wire, put in a plug lay it on the manifold somewhere to ground it. Turn the ignition to on. Slowly move the distributor until you see a spark. Stop at the moment spark occurs. Should be within a couple of degrees and get you running. Now, does spark occur when you do this? If not there lies your problem.
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SC
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dbomb wrote: