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Bellhousing alignment.

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Javelin69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Bellhousing alignment.
    Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 7:53am
It's being done in the auto shop at a tech school, so
I'm not sure they have the resources to do that. I also don't know what sort of shop to
Inquire about a service like that.

Edited by Javelin69 - Sep/25/2017 at 8:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 9:36pm
If the shafts are parallel and concentric you can determine if the block or bell is wrong. For a long term solution it would be best to take the offending part, block or bell, machine oversize, press or thread sleeve and machine the holes in the correct location. Then you don't have to worry about custom step dowels, changing engines/transmissions/clutch or converter in the future. Your machine shop should be able to do this with little expense if they have already determined the offset. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 10:45am
I'll check but I think it's 50 total.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 10:33am
I ground the stock sleeves on one side to allow the bell to move toward centre until had alignment right with bolts torqued.   Then drilled holes in the flange of the bell and into the block to fit smaller dowel pins for easier alignment in the future.  

Some vendors may sell offset dowel sleeves, but not sure who?  Could check with Jody's Transmission?   If it's at the machine shop, they should be able to align it and machine for small dowels - but make sure they check parallel alignment first.   Parallelism can be corrected by machining the face of the bell or the block, depending which is off. There is some variation block-to-block, so always best to check. 

Hope this helps,RD 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 10:26am
Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:

.... Assume the 0.050" was TIR?.....


That's the million dollar question right there.  0.025" misalignment is still a lot but much different than 0.050".
Roger Gazur
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All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 10:23am
What did you use for sleeves?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 10:04am
Check parallelism first. Paint, debris, surface defects, etc. on block, block plate or bell can throw off the parallel alignment which changes the concentric alignment.  Assume the 0.050" was TIR?  

Check and adjust concentric alignment only after making sure parallelism is in spec.(a good shop would have done this). Mine was out on an aftermarket bell and needed shims to correct parallelism and modified alignment sleeves to correct the concentricity.   

If parts are still at the machine shop, best to get them to machine the parts to suit, if you're confident in the shop.  

Hope this helps, RD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 9:22am
When you say that about the crank, do you mean when it was turned during the rebuild that the journals somehow were ground offset, or the bushing bore was never properly located? I did notice the bushing bore seemed a little rough. Could that have happened when the crank was turned?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raccoonman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 9:14am
I'm thinking in the other direction. My suspicion would fall on the crankshaft being ground off center, throwing the bushing bore out of concentricity. The rest of the physical dimensions can't change as they're never modified. Check the radial run-out of the bushing bore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1948kaiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 9:05am
is the block plate on when checking this?
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