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Devilboy's 1965 American 330

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/24/2018 at 11:22pm
your floor pan are in better shape than mine were the rear frame rail is not that bad to replace I used a pc of 2x3 tube to repair mine what you lack in welding skill you make up in wood work nice job on the console look for a use mig welder its not hard to do if you can arc weld you can mig weld a little practice and you will be on your way   
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ollie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:15am
Jeremy,
Your console is super fantastic..........totally awesome !!!

Hang in there. You will run across the right guy to do your welding.

Having AMC Fun,
Ollie
1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD
1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior"
1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Devilboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 10:13am
Thanks Donald & Ollie! Appreciate it.


Edited by Devilboy - Sep/25/2018 at 12:24pm
Jeremy
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1965 American 330
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:33pm
Like!
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Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles

1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO
1931 Model A original survivor
"Flat Roofs are Cool"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Devilboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:35pm
Thanks Ron.
Jeremy
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1965 American 330
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2018 at 6:42am
If you can stick arc weld you can use a wire welder. If you get a cheap wire welder get one that uses gas, not flux core wire (or get one that can use both). The little cheap (sub $400) wire welders from Harbor Freight or Campbell-Hausfeld are short-circuit arc machines and will spit and sputter by design. They work ok with flux core wire but leave a lot of mess to lean up with a grinder behind. Buy a argon/CO2 mix bottle and the difference is night and day! Added cost of the bottle, but will last a long time. I've been through three 5# spools of wire and still have gas in my small bottle. The $500+ machines are usually spray arc. Once arc starts wire never touches metal, arcs through plasma of molten wire. The short circuit machines touch the wire to the base metal, which then melts the wire, touches again, melts, ad infinitum...that's why it spits and sputters as you weld. Not real accurate scientific explanations, but close enough. If just doing light welding 1/8" or less, and not a lot of continuous welding (once it heats up and cuts off it takes a while to cool down for much more welding) it's fine. The short circuit type actually works better for sheet metal (such as body work) because it doesn't get the metal as hot.

This is a good ~$300 welder though. Not sure if it's short-circuit type or not, though from price I believe it might be. https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-K2185-1-Handy-Welder/dp/B07FMBPNZN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2018 at 6:49am
One more thing. I read through all the posts and didn't see where you have retorqued the head. The 195.6 OHV engine needs the head retorqued every 10-12K miles or you will blow the head gasket and most likely crack the head. First sign of a blown gasket is running hot and a bit of power loss. The head is prone to cracking when run hot, due to age and likely being run hot a few times already. Just loosen then torque each bolt one at a time and you don't have to worry about sequence -- 62 ft/lbs. The valves need adjusting about the same time, so may as well do that while valve cover is off. Don't over tighten valve cover bolts, that just warps the cover and makes it leak more! If it leaks at the back of the engine it's time for a new rubber gasket, and make sure the cover's not warped. No sealer used on the rubber o-ring type gasket.

For more detailed info on the 195.6 OHV see http://195.6ohv.com/. Tomj (here on forum) has done an excellent job of documenting this little engine!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Devilboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2018 at 7:16am
Thanks Frank, I do have a good friend who has a decent welding set-up. We are just both kind of novices with welding. It has been since high school for me. It will get figured out between the two of us.

The car runs well, but after I got it home, has not been driven much, under 5 miles, since I got it. As soon as the transmission issue is taken care of, the engine is going to get freshened up and I will address the head. Have had Tom's site bookmarked for over a year and often check it out.

Totally structural work for now though, but I appreciate the tips.
Jeremy
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1965 American 330
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Devilboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/07/2018 at 6:16pm
A little bit more progress.

Went to see gtoman_us the other day and he gave me a kick panel I desperately needed to replace a cracked and broken one. What a nice guy Ron is.

Tried out some Dupli-color vinyl & fabric paint to paint the headliner, kick panels and door handle pads, but they do not make anything near the color I need. The one I was told would match my dark blue color interior was the darkest blue they make, interestingly enough called Medium Blue. The cap looked like a match, so I got some.



Tried it out on an arm rest pad that was turquoise. The product works great, but the color is nothing even close to the cap color. Suffice it to say, I did not paint any more. Way too light for my liking and does not match at all. Anyone have any suggestions? Looks like it is either SEM or Rustoleum that I will have to try. Sure could use some advice if anyone has painted their vinyl dark blue before.



I figured since I can't make it and I am not a full on stickler for originality, I bit the bullet & ordered the driver's floor pan from CTC. Hopefully it fits okay & works out.

I also went ahead and got a DMT heater box restoration kit, since I know the heater core is leaking and needs to be attended to a.s.a.p., so that will also need to be re-cored if possible or maybe outright replaced. We shall see when I pull it.

I also finally found an actual working & correct Carter dual action fuel pump! Now I can remove the combo of an old half working vacuum pump (the wipers work but it does not pump gas) and that loud, cheap, electric monstrosity of a fuel pump the P.O. put on the frame rail, and get the actual vacuum & fuel system back in order and all working properly from a single unit. And if I may say so, most importantly, working quietly.

I swear the electric pump whine sounds like it is frigging screaming as soon as I turn the key. I will be happy to be rid of it entirely...

A new windshield gasket from Peter Stathes is next.

Rambling ever forward...


Edited by Devilboy - Oct/07/2018 at 7:36pm
Jeremy
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1965 American 330
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ollie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/08/2018 at 7:52am
Jeremy...
I have done alot of interior vinyl painting with very good and long lasting results. 

A upholstery man told me to use Bully Dog Adhesive Prompter first. I have always done so. 

I plan on using the same Dupli-Color on the 69 Rambler. I think we have decided to go with a black interior on this build. 

Looking forward to meeting Ron some day. Maybe another car guy get together at Rich's house?

Having AMC Fun,
Ollie
1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD
1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior"
1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd
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