torque tube conversion to torque arm

Yes I know there is a few posts about converting torque tube to open ,but I  would like some opinion on going to a torque Arm set up , I don't believe it has been mentioned.
64 classic going to Ford 9",keep coil spring suspension.
From what I have read ,the torque arm suspension is the best all around  suspension for solid axle.Meaning, straight line and cornering traction and no suspension binding. Trying to replicate a torque tube!
 Its the length of the torque arm I would like some input.
I have also found a torque arms from Chris Alston,used in Mustangs that are 33 and 36 ". Are these too short? F Bodies are around 48" . I don't think there is enough space in the tunnel for the bar to run beside the drive shaft. The torque arm if installed as they are in GM F bodies to the Trans,would required to be 60". Nothing I have found readily available for this length.
If I could use the short arm I could make a cross member to support it as well as lower control arms.
Thanks for any input .

though not to solve a torque tube replacement, i built a rigid wishbone rear suspension. picture "truck arms" that are extra long, and meet in the middle at the front. all of a sudden no binding when the car rolls. the catch is you need to place the front joint (i used a big heim, but i think a threaded rod with strut bushings would be better) under the tail of the transmission. i made a "spider" that does so.

i seen one one of he tech shows on valocity tv they put a torq arm set up from alston from a 9inch in a galixe that might be longer  than all others

In a car with a near stock engine the torque arm is a good call. It doesn't have to be as stout as all the replacement Camaro arms and the Mustang arms you find on-line -- those are racing replacements. Unless of course you intend to drag race the car.Lookj at TomJ's site and read about his wishbone setup. You would want to use something a bit stouter, since he's running a modified 196 -- 170-175 hp or so tops. I designed an arm to fit a late model 8.8", fits on the right side. Has to be an 8.8" with a two bolt flange on the right (passenger) side though. Didn't work out all the details, but would be easy enough to figure out pinion angle in car. The longer the arm the better -- it should pivot in the front just behind or beside the front u-joint. If behind it has to be able to move front to back some. Most of the aftermarket designs use a smooth 1" or so piece of rod in the front and a sway bar mount. Rod sticks straight out front, swaybar mount is sideways. Rod has 2-3" on each side of swaybar mount. The lower arms keep the rear axle from moving forward or back too much, so the front of the arm is free to float. Not as lot of pressure on it...