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Doug's 70 AMX Build

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DoughertyAMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DoughertyAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 4:23pm
Originally posted by PHAT69AMX PHAT69AMX wrote:

Some old questions from throughout posts...
I'm "AMX Jones-ing" since selling mine April 2014, owned since 1985...
Sorry if "too much information"....
Never too much information, appreciate your input!

- Top of right front fender......
? Motor on hoist kinda got away from'em?
Had to be something like that!  BigBadGreen donated a right front fender off a Javelin parts car, so that was welcome!

- Did ya check for a "gap" or "hole" between panels
outside the glass, directly rearward from the bottom rear corner
of the small fixed side glass, trim, and rubber, on both sides ?
My '69 had a dime sized or so "hole" right there on both sides
between where panels came together that I sealed with silicon.
Water could would did get down in there everytime washed or in rain...

I have not but thanks for the tip. Will check that out!  Hopefully this never sees water or rain anyway!

- Be careful Washing or Waxing the Car of the THE DRIP RAIL TRIM ENDS!
Mine was Razor Sharp at both ends of the DRIP RAIL Stn TRIM.
I got cut on it only one time... the 1st wash...

I noticed that as well.  Will certainly be careful.



- Firewall Pass-Thru Plate, extra holes handy for aftermarket gauges...

Yes, which this car did have at one time.  Nothing wrong with this plate but would prefer a factory one without the extra holes if I can find one.

- DynaMat is what I'd use, modern, gotta be better than "jute"...

I ended up using Boom Mat on the floors (similar to DynaMat but better and a little less costly, not much but a little), and the factory jute padding on the firewall and cowl.

- Small Vertical Interior Side Panels behind seats:
Have no picture, iirc mine were masonite, which seems ok, but...
that sure does not seem "good" to use if any moisture.
Eddie Stakes PlanetHoustonAMX sells them....

I have a set on order from Jeff at Kennedy........they are currently on backorder.

- Hood Latch, drawing from parts manual...
Thanks for the drawing!

- Carpet front top edge, iirc my '69 Carpet hung on the 4 Plastic "T" Plugs.
Then was further retained by the Left & Right Plastic Kick Panels.
I did not go as far as thehaving the Dash and/or "jute" being removed....

- Carb, I'm a Holley Guy and nothing compares to the performance of
a properly set-up DoublePumper if Punch It & Blast is "your deal".
And these guys gotta be tired of hearing this from me, but...
Proper SECONDARY Idle Speed Butterfly "Park Position" is CRITICAL.

I totally agree.  I went with a Holley Bralwer 670 vac secondary, which was formerly the Quick Fuel Slayer.  Holley bought out Quick Fuel a year or so ago, that's another loooooonnnngggg story.

- IF a "fair weather" only car, would block off the Intake Exhaust Heat Crossover.

DONE!  

- Distributor: Any decision on a path of action, recurve original?

I have not made a decision on this yet.  Recurving a distributor is not in my wheelhouse, not to mention points and condenser.  I thought I would convert it to electronic using the one wire conversion kit from www.breakerless.com , lets me keep the stock look. I just don't know what to do with the vac advance............so long story short, no I have not made a decision but am open to suggestions!

- Brackets, Alternator, P/S, etc, Did you get install dwgs or Diagrams?

Yes, I think I'm good to go on my brackets now. 

- I myself prefer the early Script style 1x1 above the trunk lid, nice.

Agree, and since my car was an August 69 build I'm assuming it had the script logo there anyway.

- Opinion here: Pinion Angle, mine seemed "backwards", and had New Leafs.
I installed Aluminum Wedge Spacers to "correct" Pinion Angle, see dwg...
imho Pinion should point slightly down at rest, then with load
it can rotate up ever so slightly towards straight...
Mine stock pointed slightly up so would the go further up under load...
Angles should be equal and opposite, Trans Tailshaft & Rear Pinion.

Haven't thought about that or got that far yet, but you make some valid points.  I will check this out when I get to that point.

- What's your opinion on suggested Steel Panel between Trunk & Cabin?

I wasn't going to use it, and don't understand the value in it other than possibly a bit quieter.  I was just going to keep it stock.

- Gonna go with a group 19 Brushed Stainless Chin Spoiler?

I went with the fiberglass front chin spoiler, painted body color along with a Donahue spoiler in the back.

- Boy if the NOS Carrier that guy has in your Wanted Ad is
the "Right One" would think could hardly go wrong getting that
other than the big bucks for a Posi Carrier....
which then kinda "pushes" a person towards one piece axles...
Ha Ha the "snowball effect" is a vicious monster to avoid!
Agree.  If the price is right I would prefer to buy it and keep it open carrier. Otherwise, to your point, big bucks for a limited slip etc and not really needed for a street car/show car.

- Borg Warner Automatic Kick-Down Switch, reckon you're aware
there is an Electronic Kickdown Switch under the dash that is
actuated by an extra "Rod" on the gas Pedal Linkage...
At least there was on my '69 with an BW M-12 Automatic Trans.

Yes, mine was still there, but I replaced it with a NOS one I found just to be safe.



Here's a vintage underhood picture of a brand new 1970 AMX 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DoughertyAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 4:27pm
Does anyone know an easy way to replace this bolt/stud in the parking brake?  Grind it off?  I have a replacement bolt I got from one of the vendors but don't want to tear up the emergency brake bracket getting the old one off.  It must be tack welded on but can't see the welds.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 5:42pm
Oh, tuff to get out without damage, yes, swagged or resistance welded I think.
Maybe carefully wiz wheel cross-cut the head, then cold chisel / punch ?
Or someone Real Good with a Torch....

Distributor, Points replacement.  Don't know if still available,
I used a Mallory UniLite Conversion,
fits under stock Distributor Cap, maybe 2 wires though, it is Infrared Photo-Optic.
Ran one for decades, with an MSD 6T Box too, never an issue with the UniLite.
Even bought a 2nd back-up Spare UniLite Module just in case, never needed it.
The Magnetic or Hall Effect units are good also, I just always worried about
the windings of small gauge wire that usually are in there somewhere with Hall Effect.
And kinda "sentimental" I guess since Group 19 Dizzy was a Mallory UniLite "Brand",
even though it was a Dual Point Type, not a Infrared Photo-Optic type Mallory iirc.
Man I used to do Carbs and Dizzy's, had about 5 Parts Dizzy's, but sold my car
and all my Parts.... Still have a bunch of Holley Tuning Parts, but that's about it.
Regardless of conversion type, they make the Block To Crossmember Ground Strap
even more "important" to have in place to make sure the Block is well grounded to the Chassis.
4 years, man... miss my AMX.... can ya tell? LOL 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DoughertyAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 9:06pm
Originally posted by PHAT69AMX PHAT69AMX wrote:

Oh, tuff to get out without damage, yes, swagged or resistance welded I think.
Maybe carefully wiz wheel cross-cut the head, then cold chisel / punch ?
Or someone Real Good with a Torch....

Distributor, Points replacement.  Don't know if still available,
I used a Mallory UniLite Conversion,
fits under stock Distributor Cap, maybe 2 wires though, it is Infrared Photo-Optic.
Ran one for decades, with an MSD 6T Box too, never an issue with the UniLite.
Even bought a 2nd back-up Spare UniLite Module just in case, never needed it.
The Magnetic or Hall Effect units are good also, I just always worried about
the windings of small gauge wire that usually are in there somewhere with Hall Effect.
And kinda "sentimental" I guess since Group 19 Dizzy was a Mallory UniLite "Brand",
even though it was a Dual Point Type, not a Infrared Photo-Optic type Mallory iirc.
Man I used to do Carbs and Dizzy's, had about 5 Parts Dizzy's, but sold my car
and all my Parts.... Still have a bunch of Holley Tuning Parts, but that's about it.
Regardless of conversion type, they make the Block To Crossmember Ground Strap
even more "important" to have in place to make sure the Block is well grounded to the Chassis.
4 years, man... miss my AMX.... can ya tell? LOL 

I think you should buy back the AMX !  Do you know where it is today?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 10:51pm
Aug 19, 1989 pictures at Edgewater, Cin. OH
Ol' Charlie Hustle 343 367 Auto 727 3k Stall 3.73s 26x8.5 Slicks 12.6@107
First time out with brand new Slicks iirc...
Yeah know who has it now & where... nope, unable to get it back.
Orange... but Bittersweet rather than Big Bad... Wink
Doug, do you intend to make any 1/4 Mile passes with your AMX?




Edited by PHAT69AMX - Apr/20/2018 at 2:58am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DoughertyAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/06/2018 at 4:47pm
Just a quick update.  In process of rebuilding the rear end.  Changing 2.87 gears out to 3.31s.  Got the rebuild kit from RaceTech and just sent torque links off to Ross Peterson for rebuild.  Also sprung for the leaf springs from Eaton.  Went with 1 inch lift over stock.  Just an fyi for others, Eaton is out of the rear leaf shackles and say they see no ETA from the vendor that was making for them.  Hopefully what Kennedy or APD has will suffice.

A few quick questions:

1)  Is there a carriage bolt that holds on the lower battery tray to the inner fender?  Inner fender has a square hole, but I don't see any bolts that would have originally went there.  Also there is about a 1 inch gap between the vertical bracket and the inner fender where it mounts.  Is there a spacer there or do i just need to "move" the vertical so it mounts flush with no spacer?  Pic of battery tray I am referring to below.

2)  I know most of the front end chassis parts are supposed to be "as cast".  After glass beading what I am not replacing, debating on just clearing those or using a "cast" paint.  What have others used to replicate the as cast look? 

3)  Leaf springs.  Debating on how to finish the new springs from Eaton.  They suggest just spraying with hi temp semi gloss black engine paint.  Say do NOT powder coat.  Were these painted from the factory?  I hate to put any undercoating on them and am leaning towards the semi gloss black.

Doug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2018 at 1:54am
The Square hole may be for a Square Cage Nut, google it and take a look at images.
The ones I had bought were made by Au-Ve-Co, a northern KY Company.
iirc there are also some cage nuts in the Radiator Support somewhere,
unsure about the 1" gap and if a Spacer or not...  or what paint finish...
Failed to get that "deep" into my car, me, I'd paint, preserve instead of "correct",
but only opinion, both approaches are valid and have their place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2018 at 9:41am
Enjoyed browsing through your thread this morning; congratulations on work well done.

Your body work and paint looks fabulous.

IMO the stock '70 AM Motorcraft four barrel carburetor is a good choice for it's lack of any nitrile diaphragm power valve device, having a brass and spring type instead, which is more durable to tolerate US Fed mandatory E10 gasohol fuel.

I would like to see AMCers lead the way into the future with E10 fuel compatibility; it makes me cringe to consider how many vintage AMC 390s there may be 'out there' running ethanol (solvent) contaminated engine oil because they have a formerly popular-yet-leak-prone carb on their engine.

IMO you shouldn't have any (potentially catastrophic) leak issues with the stock '70 AM Motorcraft 4bbl. carb if the car is only started once a month etc.
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DoughertyAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2018 at 6:13pm
Originally posted by PHAT69AMX PHAT69AMX wrote:

The Square hole may be for a Square Cage Nut, google it and take a look at images.
The ones I had bought were made by Au-Ve-Co, a northern KY Company.
iirc there are also some cage nuts in the Radiator Support somewhere,
unsure about the 1" gap and if a Spacer or not...  or what paint finish...
Failed to get that "deep" into my car, me, I'd paint, preserve instead of "correct",
but only opinion, both approaches are valid and have their place.

Square cage nut.  That's it.  I see the AMC vendors have these as well.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DoughertyAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2018 at 4:52pm
Ok, leaf spring color for a 70?  Just unpainted steel???  Hate that but if that's what it was.  I've seen then black, silver, cast painted, but wondering what is correct.  If unpainted steel, I think I'll clear over them to stop them from rusting.

Anybody?
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