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Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g

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tsanchez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 4:23pm
That should be no problem with those two relays, I can t right now but I will try monday to make up a wiring diagram for you

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 4:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 6:53am
Spot on Tony. And for 304 dude this is how I assume the internals of the actuator function.

Edited by Lucas660 - Mar/25/2017 at 7:01am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 7:22am
Ah, so it has limiting switches internal. That makes it cleaner.

Your diagram looks wrong... The motor should have one lead to one relay and the other lead to the second relay.

What happens is when the circuit is not used, both relays should have ground at both motor terminals.

Using the switched power from the head light switch will activate the motor through the circuit between the internal switches of the relays.

Once the limit has been reached, both terminals to the motor are positive 12 v.

When the headlight switch is off... The motor receives ground from the relay switch that has no power.

Once limiter has been set, the internal switch will set ground back to the motor.

The limiter switches control toggling like two on off switches, when one is off the other is on so to speak. Just a matter of knowing what switch is doing when the relay is active and when the limit has been reached, and visa versa.

Now that I know... I will post a diagram on how it should hook up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 8:56am
Originally posted by Lucas660 Lucas660 wrote:

Spot on Tony. And for 304 dude this is how I assume the internals of the actuator function.


Geezo, I mistook that the relays had been separate single pull single throw and they had a limiter built in... your diagram is correct for the function. And are simple enough to setup.

Though I did come up with a simple diagram to use standard automotive relays which are pretty robust in ruggedness. The ones you pictured seem like for indoor use.

My diagram would be correct only if you had chosen two separate automotive relays not a combination relay for each lamp door.

If anyone is interested in my diagram I will post it. But I feel I have already done enough distraction with my rambling.
71 Javelin SST body
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NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
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Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 11:01am
WOW! THANKS GUYS!!!

Now is there a consensus that the diagram that Tom posted is correct for my application?

Also, can someone explain how this works without wiring to the ignition switch itself? I assume that how the dimmer switch functions overall is the key here. (Not questioning...learning.)

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 11:13am
Just use the head light switch... it should have 12v always on and 12v switched. The 12v switched should activate the relay and start opening the doors. 12v always on should be at the inputs of the relays.

When you turn off the lights at the switch, the relay closes to its at rest position, which allows the motors to reverse and stop when limit switch has tripped.

But it all requires syncing which way the motor opererates in. So 50/50 it will be correct, or try to close when you are expecting it to open. Simple fix is to swap power leeds to motor.

Now for the big question... because I started nay saying I kept this asside as I wanted to keep the wiring portion still in play, not what parts are used and limitations.

My question is are those limit switches able to handle power loads or are they meant to activate relays. My understsnding is motors are best driven by relays directly. Switches are to actviate relays.

That is the main reason why I questioned how things are hooked up to function.

Just being careful as to how much reliability you want for your customization.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 11:35am
B+ should come directly from battery through a 30 amp circuit breaker, light switch feed cannot handle the amperage needed. Just use my diagram X2 .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 11:38am
Dimmer switch just toggles power from light switch to hi and lo beams, so it has one wire in from switch then when you push on dimmer it either sends power to low or hi beams, thats why you feed relay coil circuit from input side of dimmer(easier to access) the doors and lights will operate with or without key on just like all cars. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 1:53pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

Dimmer switch just toggles power from light switch to hi and lo beams, so it has one wire in from switch then when you push on dimmer it either sends power to low or hi beams, thats why you feed relay coil circuit from input side of dimmer(easier to access) the doors and lights will operate with or without key on just like all cars. 


AH HA!!!

OK...I think I got it.

Thanks again Tom!

Brian
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