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Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g |
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Cornelius Rambler
AMC Nut Joined: May/13/2013 Location: Escondido CA Status: Offline Points: 252 |
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Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 2:52pm |
First let me say that this is NOT a problem with my AMX. Well...sorta.
If I solve this problem, I can finish up the loose ends on THIS project and sell it so that I will have the funds to finish my AMX! So, PLEASE bear with me... I'm trying to convert the hide-away headlights on my '67 Cougar from the original vacuum motors to electric. On one end I have a simple headlight switch. On the other end I have two linear actuators (One per headlight door...) each with a built-in limiter switch that extends/retracts by reversing polarity of the two wires. What I need is a means of operating the two motions using the headlight switch. Somewhere in the middle I need to place two of these: This was put together several months ago by my old boss and good friend Jerry. Since I am very electrically challenged I asked him to show me how to install it in the car. He asked me if I was actually ready at that point and I said well, no. He told me he would help me when I was actually ready for it. Now I'm ready but I'm about 4 months too late as Jerry passed away in December. So, now I'm reaching out to some of the most prolific and brightest auto electrical minds on the internet. I can really use your help... BTW the relay parts he used were NTE R14-11D10-12 & R95-110 Brian (Cornelius Rambler) |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9081 |
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Off topic, the best electric system for head lights were on my 65 Riviera. Both lights opened together synchronised by a shaft system very much like a windshield wiper transmission.
The only difference is length of rods and the motor was the same used in power windows and seats. And hid in the confines of the bumper. Since it was a one year production, you may never see every detail on setting one up, up close. No need for timing just convert a ford wiper motor and modify the wiper transmission to use lever opening doors. Very simple and easy to maintain. Problem with electic doors done by timers, is after time the doors require more time to open and to close by wear and tare on the motors, plus you get one eye open syndrome when a timing circuit fails. I would use a simple two way slide switch to place swap power lead to motor, with ground when open. This way no timing contol is needed. Plus to close power muct be switched to what was originally ground to reverse the motor. If you want a controller to time open and closing I made one... for my Honda Accord Coupe. It is VCM with a custom setup to make a manual performance intake manifold work without the ECU to control when to open and close. To open or activate the motor, a simple 12v signal is needed. To close, the signal is switched off. Once closed no power is sent to the motor, or motors. Very simple and effective. Plus the parts are easily obtainable at Fry's or Radio Shack, or a big distributor such as Digi key. Can post my timing circuit to activate a motor or driver relay for more than one motor. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Cornelius Rambler
AMC Nut Joined: May/13/2013 Location: Escondido CA Status: Offline Points: 252 |
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"If you want a controller to time open and closing I made one... for my Honda Accord Coupe. It is VCM with a custom setup to make a manual performance intake manifold work without the ECU to control when to open and close. To open or activate the motor, a simple 12v signal is needed. To close, the signal is switched off. Once closed no power is sent to the motor, or motors. Very simple and effective. Plus the parts are easily obtainable at Fry's or Radio Shack, or a big distributor such as Digi key. Can post my timing circuit to activate a motor or driver relay for more than one motor." I'd appreciate it. While I'm still hoping that someone will see this and can decipher where my buddy Jerry was going based on the pix above, help of any kind is greatly appreciated!
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Posted above are relays that I "assume" would be put on the headlight circuit to power the headlight cover motors. One relay double throw would be set up to to open and close depending if power from the headlights was on or off. The other two relays would power each motor and would likely have individual limit switches in circuit for determining open and closed. You need two motors and four limit switches as each side will drive at different speeds and eventually the system would have one side out of sink if you did not wire this way.
I believe the Riviera had one motor that used an internal AMP limiter to determine open and closed limits. Hope this helps.
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Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
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I assume that the actuators have only 2 wires? The limit switches should have diodes in series inside. The relays should change polarity depending if the headlamps are on or off. If you can verify the wiring for the actuators I could draw a diagram for you.
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Cornelius Rambler
AMC Nut Joined: May/13/2013 Location: Escondido CA Status: Offline Points: 252 |
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Thanks! And yes, to clarify, the actuator has two wires...YELLOW & GREEN. Applying power to the YELLOW and connecting ground to the GREEN retracts the actuator piston thus opening the headlight door. Reversing and applying power to the GREEN and ground to the YELLOW extends the piston and shutting the headlight door. Luckily, the 2" throw between the fully extended and the fully retracted actuator piston mimics the throw of the original vacuum motor rod. So, the preset shut off of the limit switch in either direction works just fine! So there 'ya go. Thanks and thanks to everyone that has responded to this thread! |
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Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
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This will work if you replace ignition with the headlamp feed. Stolen from a Hyundai forum but the same principle applies. You could run the constant 12v feed from ignition switched but you would have to make sure the headlamps are switched off before switching off the ignition.
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Cornelius Rambler
AMC Nut Joined: May/13/2013 Location: Escondido CA Status: Offline Points: 252 |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9081 |
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Problem is you cant use your headlights when ignition is off. IIRC, the headlight switch should have a constant 12v source. That should be tapped to the motor drive relays. The output of the headlight switch should be what drives the relay switch to open the doors.
In principle the head lights will light up and activate the doors simultaneously. When the lights go out, the doors close. Very safe and will work like the Riviera light setup and many other door type head lights. Not familiar with the relays so I cannot say how they wire up, let alone how they interconnect with the open and close sensors you are using. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Cornelius Rambler
AMC Nut Joined: May/13/2013 Location: Escondido CA Status: Offline Points: 252 |
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Thanks Lucas!
Question: The B+ is sourced from where? Brian
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