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Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g

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tsanchez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g
    Posted: May/07/2017 at 10:16pm
No I dont know him, I'll take a dinner if I am ever out there
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Cornelius Rambler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/06/2017 at 7:44pm
HOT DANG TONY! IT WORKS!!!

If you're ever in our neck of the woods I owe you dinner!

By the way, do you know of a Paul Arnold? REALLY good upholsterer in Chandler. I think.

Anyway, thanks again!!!!!!

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/05/2017 at 5:06pm
Oops, I screwed up the diagram, move motor leads to 5 and 6 and link 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together and it should work. lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2017 at 9:40am
I would guess you see that 3 is constant 12v and is also linked to 6 so 3 and 6 are same 12v constant, also 4 and 5 are linked and are ground
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2017 at 9:24am
if wired like I showed, all you do is provide 12v to pin 8 and it will operate motors, then when you remove power it will reverse.
4 and 7 are grounds not to be combined with 8 which is switched 12v
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2017 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:



OK...

Wired everything as diagrammed on my desk. Without installing, how should I test the system?

I DID combine the two grounds (Post 4 & 7) with the lead to be tapped into the dimmer switch (Post 8) using the ground from my charger.

I attached the positive lead (Post 3) to my 30 amp breaker and out to the positive on my charger.

Lastly, I touched the leads to the actuator (Post 1 & 2) to the actuator wires themselves and activated the piston. Switching the leads around caused the piston to move in the opposite direction.

Is there a way to simulate the switching from one direction to the other through the relay without actually tapping the #8 lead to the dimmer switch?

Thanks in advance...AGAIN!

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2017 at 7:16pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

You are welcome, it's Tony though, haha

CR@P!

Sorry Tony...thanks again!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 10:19pm
You are welcome, it's Tony though, haha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 1:58pm
Wanna' thank everyone for the help.

Now all I gotta do is put this together and make it purty. 

It really is a nice car and I hate like sin to sell it. 
But, I can't afford two cars at this time in my life and the Cougar is only my second favorite car!

THANKS AGAIN!

Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2017 at 1:53pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

Dimmer switch just toggles power from light switch to hi and lo beams, so it has one wire in from switch then when you push on dimmer it either sends power to low or hi beams, thats why you feed relay coil circuit from input side of dimmer(easier to access) the doors and lights will operate with or without key on just like all cars. 


AH HA!!!

OK...I think I got it.

Thanks again Tom!

Brian
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