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Putting 80s 258 2 barrel intake on 76 engine - wha

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mantonas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mantonas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/18/2017 at 7:10pm
1972 AMC Javelin SST
1973 AMC Ambassador 401
1975 AMC Pacer D/L
1976 AMC Pacer X
1976 AMC Matador sedan
1978 AMC Pacer V8 coupe
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 12:25am
Permatex RED high temp silicone will seal exhausts. you can't fill holes, it will blow out! but as a sealer or gasket it's great. 1200 degree flame fronts, no! but 400F metal, fine. thread and small gap filler works. though i had my exhaust manifolds ground flat, i use a thin bead of read silicone on them as gasket.

i also wrapped my manifold and downpipe with fiberglass cloth strip i got from summit. wow, does that make overall underhood and cabin temps lower! i laced it up with stainless safety wire, and had a couple of minor loose spots i sealed with red silicone. (you can touch the manifold of the engine after a long hot run. its "hot" but not emergency room time :-)
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mantonas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 7:12pm
Thanks, I still haven't finished tightening all the plugs; maybe I should take them all out and put some of that high temp RTV on the threads first.

Subject change: I bought one of those tiny 4" round air cleaners and the hood won't close. There's a spacer under the carb that came with it when I bought it on eBay. I assumed it was part of the factory configuration and needed to be there, either so the butterflies would clear the inside of the manifold or to help vaporize the fuel before it is forced to make an abrupt right angle turn. Even if neither of these is true, I would prefer to keep it because I think a spacer helps low end throttle response. However, if I don't absolutely need it, and I can close the hood if I remove it, I'm removing it. Can I get by without it?
1972 AMC Javelin SST
1973 AMC Ambassador 401
1975 AMC Pacer D/L
1976 AMC Pacer X
1976 AMC Matador sedan
1978 AMC Pacer V8 coupe
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcfool1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 10:43pm
the pacer used an offset air cleaner, your old one barrel air cleaner should work. that spacer is the phenolic insulator, keep it if possible. gz
george z
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 11:37pm
Originally posted by mantonas mantonas wrote:

 I would prefer to keep it because I think a spacer helps low end throttle response. However, if I don't absolutely need it, and I can close the hood if I remove it, I'm removing it. Can I get by without it?

it is very unlikely that a short, arbitrarily shaped spacer has any effect at all on air flow. while it's true intake runners can make a difference, it's not that simple. 

the 4" air cleaner might be too small for a 258 and restrict airflow at speed.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mantonas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2017 at 8:22am
You know, I was about to post a reply that the factory air cleaner wouldn't fit because it slips down onto a stud sticking out of the top of the valve cover and it won't reach the carburetor, but then I remembered the stud is mounted in a sort of slotted clip, so I went and took a look at it and it appears that, since the slot is horizontal, I should be able to move the stud closer to the carburetor and use the factory air cleaner after all. This solves my problem.

P.S. I have a 4" round air cleaner for sale :)
1972 AMC Javelin SST
1973 AMC Ambassador 401
1975 AMC Pacer D/L
1976 AMC Pacer X
1976 AMC Matador sedan
1978 AMC Pacer V8 coupe
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2017 at 1:59pm
I did the exact same thing on my '76 Pacer. I found a 2bbl air cleaner at a junkyard, the 1bbl air cleaner didn't fit right, but it was long enough ago I can't remember the exact issue. Unfortunately the junkyard is long gone, but they only had a couple of Pacers. Lots of Eagles sadly.

I wired up all the manifold electrics just like the 83+ TSM shows and it runs great in the winter. I could tell the difference when the electric heater relay died the winter before last. I used a Cherokee plastic heater valve to replace the Pacer's original so the coolant will continue to circulate like it's supposed to.
76 Pacer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mantonas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2017 at 6:54pm
So I haven't posted in a while. I pretty much got all this stuff figured out. I ended up retaining the throttle linkage from the original manifold, primarily because I couldn't see how the transmission kickdown would work with the throttle linkage that came with the 80's era two barrel manifold. I fabricated a bracket that supported the throttle linkage and attached it to the manifold where the EGR valve is intended to go. My bracket also functions as an EGR blockoff plate. 

After I did that, the ball stud on the throttle lever of the BBD carburetor was not in anywhere near the right place for the rod attached to the throttle linkage to be able to pull it down. So I fabricated a right angle bracket out of some stainless steel I had lying around to move it from the side to the rear of the carburetor. 

Also, the original rod was not the right length and the connection to the ball stud was 90 degrees off where it should have been. So I used two of these and some threaded rod:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/qa1-precision-products/product-line/qa1-throttle-linkage-quick-disconnect-couplers?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5

So after that, everything worked as far as the carburetor installation was concerned. 

Also, as it turned out, I had a factory 2 barrel air cleaner among the storage unit full of Pacer parts that I have that I bought from a guy a couple of years ago. It fit on the BBD 2 barrel perfectly!

So I am going to consider this task complete, after over a year of struggles. I have done a lot of other stuff on this car, and I will definitely be doing more, including an MC2100 carburetor installation at some point. When I do that, I may revive this thread, or start a new one, I don't know. But I really appreciate everyone's help, suggestions, and interest!






Edited by mantonas - Jul/29/2017 at 7:56pm
1972 AMC Javelin SST
1973 AMC Ambassador 401
1975 AMC Pacer D/L
1976 AMC Pacer X
1976 AMC Matador sedan
1978 AMC Pacer V8 coupe
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcfool1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2017 at 8:19pm
hey man, good for you, sounds like you got it running well. One last thing, when you are using the water heated/cooled intake, you need to change the heater control valve to the 81+ one, otherwise, the coolant doesn't flow., just hits a dead end at the valve until you turn on (open) the heater (valve). Not a big deal, but, it could be. good luck, gz
george z
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mantonas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mantonas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/29/2017 at 11:31pm
Wow, I'm sort of happy and unhappy at the same time. Happy because as big of a pain as this has been it's also been kind of a fun project and now it can continue. Unhappy because it doesn't look like it will be easy to find that heater valve for a non-astronomical price, and I have no idea how to route the heater hoses.

On a more serious note, this may end up solving a problem I have, which is that the engine doesn't run as well as I would like it to. I expected it to run a lot smoother, and it seems to be running really rich. I used a vacuum gauge and tried to optimize idle speed, rpm, and ignition timing, but even so it's a little disappointing. I figured it was the carburetor; it's a stepper motor version which I got cheap on ebay, and I just figured it was stuck in a rich setting. (FYI, I've also replaced the plugs with NGK iridiums, put on an MSD Blaster coil, and gotten rid of the Prestolite ignition by installing a 1978 distributor and a homemade GM HEI ignition box, so I really think it should be running better.) Maybe hot coolant coursing through the intake manifold is what I need.

So, once I get the heater valve, how do I run the heater hoses? It looks like it's got 4 connections.
1972 AMC Javelin SST
1973 AMC Ambassador 401
1975 AMC Pacer D/L
1976 AMC Pacer X
1976 AMC Matador sedan
1978 AMC Pacer V8 coupe
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Back to Top
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