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70 AMX A/C hose removal

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expdchief View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote expdchief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 70 AMX A/C hose removal
    Posted: Jun/08/2016 at 12:02pm
Hi:

Can anyone advise me on how to remove the factory a/c hoses that flow into the fire wall on a 70 AMX?  I want to replace those with new barrier type hoses so I can use R134A.  Any help gratefully appreciated.  Dead
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2016 at 12:31pm
There should be two maintenance valves on the york compressor. Remove the caps and close the valves then remove the hoses. Then install the replacements. Not sure but you should get the system evacuated before doing maintenance, since you are replacing with 134a.

Though I recommend having an ac tech do it. As they warrenty their work, and make sure everything is proper. And may have needed parts available in case there is something that pops up.

It is a wee costly but if you are not familiar with AC maintenance, it will be worth while, if you spring a leak.

Edited by 304-dude - Jun/08/2016 at 12:34pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AmeriMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2016 at 12:32pm
If it's anything like trying to get to the A/C hoses on a '71 AMX you basically have to remove the dash to get to them. Not fun.
larue390@comcast.net
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2016 at 12:36pm
Ah, I was thinking he may have had the dash off.

Though 70 cars from what I hear are easier to get around the dash. He may be able to go from under the dash and uncork it.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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401MATCOUPE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2016 at 3:21pm
To remove the two A/C hoses on any year AMX or Javelin, remove the steering column from the car, remove the gas pedal assembly....and for some extra space remove the drivers seat.  The expansion valve is buried in tar impregnated cork, unwrap the expansion valve and the end of the evaporator.  Make sure you use a wrench on both sides of the hose...one on hose the other on evaporator or expansion valve.   Just some advise if you are this far in.....1. Replace the expansion valve, no matter what.  2. Flush the Evaporator while you have the system open with a good quality A/C Flush.  3. Flush the Condensor also.  4. Change the o-rings on the check valve assy at the Dryer.   4.  Send the Dryer out to Classic Auto Air and have it rebuilt with new desiccant that is R-134a compatible. 

I have changed the expansion valve on every year AMX/Javelin and the key is access.
Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar)
68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A
69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A
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70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO
74MatX,401,AT,Prototype
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expdchief View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote expdchief Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2016 at 9:44pm
Thanks for the replies, especially Mat401Coupe.  A;ready had the drier rebuilt by Classic Auto Air.  $105 plus shipping.  Dunno if I want to do all that but will take a look.  Thanks so much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2016 at 12:01pm
X 2 on Ross's instructions. I've done this job too and it's all about getting access under the dash. The hex sided fittings are fairly large so kinda big wrenches are needed. If you don't use back up wrenches on the fittings silver soldered to the evap coil you will twist them off.

If memory serves me correctly, the lubricants in the system need to be removed because the R134A causes them to coagulate or something. Flushing everything (compressor and all) and replacing the lubricant with PAG oil is the best way to do this. I do not remember anyone talking about how PAG oil works with the original compressers. I installed a Sanden style rotary compressor so I didn't worry about it. Black rubber o-rings will not last with the R-134a you need to install the green ones designed for that use.

Make sure you re-wrap all the underdash fittings as before, the material used for that purpose is available at parts stores, the AMC vendors and Ebay.

Armand.
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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70 Donohue 390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70 Donohue 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2016 at 2:31pm
X3 on Ross's explanation. The daum pedals are the deal killer-they are in the way for any leverage on the two fittings. I haven't done mine yet but will soon.
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70 BBO 390 5 Speed Javelin-under construction
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