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Sandin vs. York and hose fitment |
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dogbone 
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Joined: Mar/13/2008 Location: TN Status: Offline Points: 702 |
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 Topic: Sandin vs. York and hose fitmentPosted: Jun/02/2016 at 4:37pm |
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I'm working toward reactivating the AC on my 64 wagon. The compressor needs to be replaced and I'm sure the dryer will need to be reworked or replaced. I've read tons of threads here and elsewhere on getting this going.
My question is if I go with a Sandin replacement will I be able to use the existing hoses? They seem to be in good condition, but I'm not sure if they will mount up to the Sandin properly. I plan on keeping it with R12 if at all possible. For those of you who have installed the Sandin did you also swap out the hoses as well? |
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64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam
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Pdok
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Posted: Jun/02/2016 at 9:18pm |
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I'm having the same issue. I switched to the Sanden-style when I did my head swap, and the Jeep donor fittings are completely different so I'm looking for the right solution. What I've found is that there are many variations of the head plate with the fittings on a Sanden. I think what I'm looking for is a tube-O style, which should fit the york valves (also tube-o at the compressor). Flare fittings on the OEM hoses.
I have to say, though, I'm not a tube-o fan at all. They leaked on me at the fitting quite a bit with new valves and seals.
Another option I saw, which might also work, is to buy new service valves that fit whatever style sanden head ports you have, and adapt them to the flare fittings on your hoses. The reason I'm not immediately crimping new fittings on my old hoses is simply the cost of having a shop do the work. The old hoses will "probably" be fine with R134, if you decide to switch. I haven't decided yet, but I'll suggest a PAG oil. A PAG-46 is low viscosity enough for R12 to circulate it around. You can always stick with mineral oil, too. After all my work, I think I'm going to have someone nitrogen pressure check for me this time. Absolutely refit the dryer!! you can't warranty the compressor without a new drier most of the time anyway. On my Gremlin, the APD "exact" part did not fit at all, and I ended up sending my old drier to the AC place in FL for them to cut it open and redo it. Much happier although it was 2x what the part store version costs (that didn't fit anyway so who cares how cheap, right?) Two things, I would not recommend a china-made off brand compressor. And I'd recommend the larger pump capacity on your choice of Sanden. |
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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dogbone
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Posted: Jun/02/2016 at 9:31pm |
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good info, maybe it would just be easier to get a York off of rockauto. They are about $225 and should mate right up.
I was going to vacuum mine down and see how well it holds and if it looks pretty good then pressure it up with some argon and let it set for a day or two. I've got several cans of r12, but don't want to charge it up unless I'm pretty sure it's leak free.
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64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam
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dogbone
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Posted: Jun/02/2016 at 9:39pm |
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is this what you're needing to get the hoses to fit?
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64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam
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Pdok
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Posted: Jun/03/2016 at 7:29am |
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In order to fit the oem hoses it will need flare fittings. I'm not sure what your year had but I prefer o ring if I'm going to switch. Flare is OK if not over torqued or distorted. I just figure there's a reason they aren't on automotive applications any more.
There's a ton of options for the fittings on the compressor. I've got a nearly brand new York on the floor of my garage just pulled it to do my swap. CCI is the brand you want for a York style, lots of knock offs out there. They do rob power more than the sanden and they're noisier. But there's no shortage of them and they are super durable. They're all over the commercial vehicle world. |
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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dogbone
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Posted: Jun/03/2016 at 8:59am |
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I think the one at Rockauto is a four seasons. My 79 Volkswagen has one and when it comes on its like loosing two cylinders especially if you're going up a hill. But it would freeze you out.
I guess there are two issues. One, just attaching the old hoses. As you mention the fittings are different. Two, the location of the fittings on the new compressor may mean the hose won't physically reach to the right spot to be attached. The adapters in the post above look like they would make it work, but you'd just about have to have all the components on hand to see.
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64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam
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Pdok
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Posted: Jun/03/2016 at 11:28am |
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Precisely the problem, so I'll probably end up at a shop cutting and crimping my hoses or replacing them.
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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White70JavelinSST
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Posted: Jun/07/2016 at 11:56am |
IIRC, R134a is a smaller molecule than Freon. I have been reading that the old hoses cannot contain R-134a. A "barrier" hose is needed if you don't want the refrigerant to leak away. Regardless, aren't the original hoses cracked/deteriorated/oil soaked anyway? O-Ring is the only way to go. Convert as many of the connections as possible if you can. |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Wrambler
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Posted: Jun/07/2016 at 3:07pm |
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Yes, the old hoses don't have barrier protection.
In actual use there seems to be little to no problem as over the years the minute quantity of oil that circulates has coated and plugged the pores/holes. I've hear quite a few people say that all they did was swap in a new dryer and compressor and go. I'd replace what is accessible. Any that are buried under the dash would get left until I actually had a problem.
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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler 4.0L, 5 speed 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 2019 Chrysler 300 |
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farna
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Posted: Oct/10/2016 at 7:20am |
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I'd replace 50 year old hoses regardless of how they look, especially the high pressure side. 300 psi popping a hose under the hood isn't pretty... AC oil every where. The York compressor is reliable but heavy and takes more power to drive than a Sanden unit. If this is a driver use the Sanden. You can have hoses made with flare ends for the original evaporator under the dash and o-ring fittings for the compressor and a universal drier. That's what I did.
You might want to go ahead and change the expansion valve for one calibrated for R-134a, but I'm still using the original with no issues. It's something I would have changed had I thought about it back when I put the AC in operation though. I don't know if it would make a difference or not, but it's easier to change it now before the system is charged. Advance Auto Parts site says the part number is 38683 and it's under $15. If I'd have checked the price before charging mine it would have been replaced!! |
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Frank Swygert
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Pdok wrote: