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Gray Streaks in Oil |
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Red20 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Jan/29/2013 Location: Oceanside CA Status: Offline Points: 1556 |
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 Topic: Gray Streaks in OilPosted: Dec/20/2015 at 3:48am |
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When I built the top end of my 360 and put it in the car, I ran in the cam for 25 minutes at 2500 RPMs and changed the break in oil after about 50-75 miles. Then today I drained that oil to pull the pan and investigate a rod knock. As I slowly poured out the filter, the oil had gray streaks in it. What are some causes of that?
I did pull the intake manifold and reseal the valley pan at the same time I changed the break in oil. I ended up pouring a good bit of coolant into the crankcase when I popped the intake off. I figured there wouldn't be enough left after draining the oil to cause any serious issues. To be safe, though, I did put some assembly lube on the lifters and cam lobes before I put the intake back on. I'm thinking the gray could be assembly lube. It could also be a result of steam from heated coolant in the oil, maybe. Heck, idk. The rod knock itself may be a result of dumping coolant into the crankcase. Thoughts? |
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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
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401MATCOUPE
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Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
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Posted: Dec/20/2015 at 5:43am |
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Gray streaks are most likely from the assembly lube, especially if you use a moly based lube.....however, since you said you have a knock, I read your other thread, it may be from the bearing materials that are creating your knock. A basic rule of thumb is when ever any coolant enters the lubrication system you must change oil....you hay be surprised at the amount an intake change can drop in. As a matter of fact, if I have to pull the intake and coolant drops in the engine, I drain the oil and usually pour some a quart of two of fresh oil through the engine with the drain plug out to make sure all the coolant is "washed" out. After it is back together, and run for a short period of time.....10-15 minutes, I'll change it again (oil and filter always together).......I always call it cheap insurance.....coolant can wash bearings out. Usually coolant in oil will make the oil to be kind of foamy and change the color of the oil.....FYI. Again, good luck
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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Lyle
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Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Posted: Dec/20/2015 at 7:55am |
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Out on a limb here but your not running with the original aluminium rockers? If so I would change these out regardless as those were crap to begin with and changing anything in the valve train will just wear those out like no tomorrow. And yes they show up with the aluminium as light grey streaks in the oil.
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3904speed
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Joined: Dec/16/2015 Location: Mt Status: Offline Points: 415 |
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Posted: Dec/20/2015 at 8:03am |
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I am not a pro! We have heavy equipment our experience if it is foamy bubbles, it is water! Just my opinion!!
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Red20
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Joined: Jan/29/2013 Location: Oceanside CA Status: Offline Points: 1556 |
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Posted: Dec/20/2015 at 9:46am |
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I appreciate the responses. I definitely changed the oil when the coolant got in there. This time, the oil looked ok. Definitely not that creamy stuff you get when there's coolant in it. It was just the oil that I poured out of the Wix filter.
As for the valve train, those stock rockers can go for half a million miles as long as they're getting good oil pressure up there. However, I milled and tapped these heads for rocker studs and I'm running Harland Sharp roller rockers. The next time I go out to work on it, I'll have the pan off. I'll have a better idea then. I wish I had one of those slick oil filter can openers. I may just cut it open the hard way to see what all is in it. |
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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
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dbomb
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Joined: Jul/22/2012 Location: new jersey Status: Offline Points: 705 |
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Posted: Dec/20/2015 at 7:13pm |
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I actually prefer the alloy rocker bridges for a stock type motor without alot of cam or heavy valve spring . .If youre really slick you can use a roller type can opener to cut open "some" types of oil filters .Olt tymer showed me in past and Ive done it before.Gray is usually babbit material ie bearing material .Good Luck
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rebuiling 73 amx need parts
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ScrambledEgg
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Joined: Nov/24/2007 Location: Upstate NY Status: Offline Points: 348 |
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Posted: Dec/22/2015 at 4:40am |
I have the Longacre oil filter cutter. One of the best tools I own. I would highly recommend it or another purpose oil filter cutter. If you try to cut the filter yourself manually or with a saw or cutoff wheel, you will get debris in the 'mix' and you wont be able to know if it was part of the cutting process or came from the engine. You can buy oil filter cutters relatively cheap on ebay including the Longacre. Cutting filers apart and looking at what came out of the engine and how the filter is constructed is a cheap form of entertainment. |
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ScrambledEgg
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Red20
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Joined: Jan/29/2013 Location: Oceanside CA Status: Offline Points: 1556 |
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Posted: Dec/22/2015 at 10:54am |
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Haha! Yep, just my kind of cheap entertainment. Along with standing back and staring at the car imagining different paint colors. I'm feeling Castilian Gray.
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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
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xfactor
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Joined: Sep/09/2012 Location: Port McNeill BC Status: Offline Points: 478 |
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Posted: Dec/22/2015 at 11:16am |
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What we do at work to check oil filters is put the element in a vice and tighten it. The small bits of junk get squeezed to the surface and are easy to see then.
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Ray Harper 69 AMX 401
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Red20 wrote: