1962 rambler troubleshooting

D1 selected means the trams starts out in first gear, then shifts to second and then third.
D2 selected means the trains starts out in second gear and shifts into third.

The 1-2 shift comes pretty fast, somewhere around 15 mph, and isn't fast.  The little 196 six cylinder probably IS revving pretty high at 60 mph, but it will be fine, you can't hurt it with the stock carb. They were geared a bit low, probably has 3.78 gears... will have to check, due to the rather small engine for e size of the car and there were few roads for extended high speed running back then. The Interstate system was still mostly under construction, having started in 1958. Most driving was still rural roads, with taking off and pulling hills at lower speeds the priority. Average speed on highways was in the 45-50 range, with few roads capable of safe speeds much over that. It was a totally different world back then! That's one reason the 196 was finally phased out after 65 -- it was designed in the late 30s and was just too far out of date. Great engine -- reliable and pulls good at low speed, but it's not a freeway cruiser. I ran one slightly modified (better cam, mainly) at 70-75 a lot, but in the lighter 63 American. It will use a bit of oil at high speeds, but not excessive (might have to add a quart between 3,000 mile changes). If you want an Interstate cruiser you really need to change the engine, which isn't the simplest thing to do. Requires some fabrication no matter what you use. The only thing that will bolt up to that transmission is a 64-71 199/232/258 (71 only for the 258). Then you still have a low axle ratio and a high revving engine at higher speeds, but the 199/232 is a lot happier running at 3000 rpm than the old 196 and shouldn't sound like it's struggling or might want to come apart.  The 196 does have forged crank and rods and won't come apart even though it may sound like it, by the way.

So I think I figured it out. When I put the car in low it bangs into first gear. So I think D1 and D2 to our starting off in second gear which would also explain the sluggish acceleration. Frank do you feel cleaning the valve body would maybe fix that? Also any service documents that you know of that can help me along since I am new at all of this? Thanks

Best thing you can do if you plan on keeping the car any time at all is order a TSM. Check e-bay, they are there all the time, either a new reprint or CD, and sometimes originals. Prices run from $20-$60, depending on timing and condition. The TSM covers the trans and everything else on the car, but does assume you are a knowledgeable general mechanic. No big deal, anything you don't know/understand there are people on the Forum who can help you out.

Banging into first gear is usually a sticky shift valve and/or pressure regulator valve. Could be a partially blocked passage. I can't guarantee it will fix the problem, but I'd pull the VB and thoroughly clean it. Make sure you spray carb cleaner or air through every passage, and wear a face shield or at least goggles! If you spray into a blind or blocked passage cleaner comes back in your face... doesn't taste good and burns the eyes! Do you need to ask how I know? Learn from my mistakes, don't make your own! Hey, at least that was years ago...

You really need that TSM before taking the VB out. IIRC it comes out with no problem, as the bolts that take the two halves apart are on top (I may be wrong, been a while!). But there is one or two check valve balls that sit in certain passages that come out when the Vb is separated. Don't want to lose one, and need to put it back in the right place! Can't see where they fall out from most of the time. TSM shows where they go.

While you're in there, either buy a whole rebuild gasket/seal kit, or just a servo seal kit. You will need a pan gasket anyway, and the servos aren't hard to take out and replace the seals. You can get the parts from Northwest Transmissions Parts (www.nwtparts.com). Not too expensive, gasket/seal/ring kit is $60. Has everything but the clutches and steels. It's not a hard trans to rebuild -- the master rebuild kit is only $87. Unless you want to take the whole thing apart just get the gasket kit though.

Push-button trans uses a vacuum modulator with electric kick-down. Only the 65-66 V-8 and 63-66 six cylinder autos used the TV cable.

Internally the aluminum (M-3x and M-4x models) and cast iron versions are similar, though the VB on the M-8 is a lot different from the AL and later iron models. There are still a lot of valves and springs in any VB, regardless of make. Carefully take apart and clean, maybe one valve at a a time, or just place each valve and components ion a separate area. Takes some room and time, and patience, but it's not terribly difficult. If taking mechanical things apart doesn't terrify you, you can do it!


Edited by farna - Jul/30/2015 at 8:28am