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AMX 401 Take 4

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 7:05am
Originally posted by Rebel Machine Rebel Machine wrote:

Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Gosh, that video explanes my thoughts about you getting oil squirted situation thsituationpump hole.

Not sure, but it seems that there is a lot of oil flow from the gear and cam reliefs. A bit more than I expected.

it is possible to much oil up front in the cover, that is causing your lack of oil... if so, reputationthe front edges of the #1 main, or solve the exessive oiling at the cam.



That's what I'm thinking. It makes sense.

I removed the cam and the bearings are worn, only ran this engine for about 50 miles. Also the oiling hole in the front cam journal is lined up with the cam bearing oiling hole when it pushes that much oil through. Not sure how much flow that translates to when the cam is spinning.

Weird thing is the factory AMC timing gear doesn't look all that different.

Gonna have to give this some thought.





Whoa! A lot of replies since showing the video and gears. This is looking like an early Penski racing situation to me. A bad box of bearings... or improper cam journal size can be your worst enemy. You've gone this far, might just pull the cam and start measuring. I don't think you have to worry about the cam gears, as Rollmasters have a good reputation.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 7:58am
Originally posted by 70amxvegas 70amxvegas wrote:

too many pages for me to read BUT my bro had issues with his 390  after 4 rebuilds and being 60 over he walked away . but the new owner took this same block to another shop and they picked up the issue in one minute. U will never ever find the answer here ..... we see nothing ... take the big dude to another shop. Dont give up just get another set of eyes on it . I walked from a shop that did a great job on three 390 motors for me but the last one went south after three hundred miles. they told me the new guy built it , my new shop picked up many issues and KNOCK ON WOOD STILL RUNNING.


your current builder is missing the same issue......get another set of eyes on it...history repeats itsself


This issue of the builder continues to perplex me.  I suppose this applies more to a pure stock rebuild than something modified but what could a shop do to cause these problems?  All you have to work with are:

1)  clearances
2)  dimensions
3)  torques
4)  cleanliness
5)  assembly

I mean good grief, by the time I was in my early twenties I had already gone through a number of Ford FE's, Mopar 318's and 383's, even a 300 Buick (which as I remember is pretty much a kissing cousin to an AMC).  They were all pretty much stock rebuilds with the exception of some camshafts/headers/intake replacements.  The bottom line was they all ran and ran acceptably well.  This from an ignorant kid with a basic set of sockets, wrenches, a beam torque wrench, a feeler gauge set, and a fistful of Plastigauge using a 1967 Glenn's Motor Manual for a reference.  Unless you have a blacksmith who can't read an indicator or a mic, can't use a feeler gauge, whose only tools are a matched set of hammers, I'm just struggling with thinking assembly is the problem.  But then again, I'll be the first to admit maybe I am just naive.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 8:33am
Originally posted by nda racer nda racer wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:


IIRC, I knew someone else having problems with oil control, he put a bigger pan on it, problems went away.


Stock or performance build?
performance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 8:47am
Originally posted by mcjarv mcjarv wrote:

Could be that the oil pressure forced the cam and gear away from the face of the block when you were troubleshooting on the stand causing your massive leak, especially with roller lifters. If you could rig up a way to make sure the cam gear stays seated against the block like it does while running via the oil pump etc the "test" results may be different.

Good Luck, Mike


I don't think so. I could see it was coming from the cam gear's groove.

The cam gear is held against the face of the cam by the drive gear bolt so even if the cam walked forwards a bit those parts are still pressed together.

-Steve-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nda racer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 9:14am
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Originally posted by nda racer nda racer wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:


IIRC, I knew someone else having problems with oil control, he put a bigger pan on it, problems went away.


Stock or performance build?
performance.


Performance build.... performance pan.


If it's bearing/lifter clearances, wouldn't the oil pressure suck all the time? I have wore out mills, (big clearances) and the pressure is low across the board.

It all comes back to the pick up tube "clearance" and/or not enough pan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nda racer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 9:19am
I'm a pretty simple guy.., I see what T did, and that's good enough for me. Fast car, power tour etc. That's all I need to know for a build.


My buddy worked on his drainback, but then again, stock pan and his pickup could have been out of wack. Plus he only ran 5 qts, maybe 6 would have cured his problem. But his problem only came towards the end of the 1/4 in a 360. Never cruising down the road and giving it a quick stab.


Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

My old and new engine have stock drain back even at the timing cover, stock pump, no internal line, no rear bypass line, internal pickup, and 8 qt milodon pan and pickup. Only time I ever had an issue was when stock pickup was too close to stock pan, as rpm increased oil pressure dropped, welded a 3/8 thick nut to bottom of pickup and problem went away, this was in the 80s after that I installed big pan. On both I restrict the complete driver oil gallery with a pipe plug drilled with .080 hole or so (mech lifters). Spins to 8,000 plus and never an oiling issue. even has the 90 degree oil pump cover nobody likes LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 9:41am
Couple things:

1) What is the oil temp of the AMX vs. the Machine? Same oil (viscosity and brand)? On the 4 or so tries don't recall if you tried a thicker oil or if all were 10W30?

Assume the AMX make more power? Power = heat. Heat = thinner oil. Thinner oil = lower viscosity. Lower viscosity = lower pressure.

Still doesn't explain your loss of pressure when you get on it then quick recovery ... to me that's a suction leak (quick accel = max suction so will find a suction leak more so than cruise), pump cavitation (restricted inlet or oil sloshing away from the pickup), relief valve popping open and sticking, or parts move under load increasing clearance.

Does it lose pressure at steady rpm (medium or high), or only with quick accel or braking?


2) For oil from timing cover, if there's a bunch of oil maybe it wants a drain line tapped into the front cover and back to the sump ... or a full length windage tray so oil returning from the front isn't whipped around by the crank?

I have pictures somewhere that showed the original Aviaid TA pan with full length tray. They cut-out the front of the pan and put a false bottom on it so oil could return under the tray and clear of the crank.

Hope this helps,RD.

PS. What oil viscosity is Tony running?

Here's the 1968?? Aviaid TA pan and tray. The one they sell now is deeper and with an external pickup, but only has a partial tray over the sump.





Edited by Red Devil - May/26/2014 at 10:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 11:44am
Originally posted by purplehornet purplehornet wrote:

Steve, here is a factory gear. It has the oil passage lined up also, and 2 more passages.



I pulled an AMC timing gear out of my parts pile and it looks like the one you show. So I tested that gear on my engine as well as the Cloyes gear.

The results are pretty interesting.

You'll notice the original AMC gear doesn't throw much oil and I can even run the oil pump more aggressively without it spraying oil everywhere (unlike the Rollmaster gear).

http://home.comcast.net/~amcer/Test_AMC.AVI

The Cloyes gear doesn't throw oil all over but it does move a great deal more to the distributor drive gear.

http://home.comcast.net/~amcer/Test_Cloyes.AVI

You'll see the orientation of the cam is the same in all three tests (Rollmaster, Cloyes and AMC) which keeps the oil feed in the cam bearing and journal in line. I really thing I'm closing in on the problem.

-Steve-


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 11:47am
Originally posted by nda racer nda racer wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Originally posted by nda racer nda racer wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:


IIRC, I knew someone else having problems with oil control, he put a bigger pan on it, problems went away.


Stock or performance build?
performance.


Performance build.... performance pan.


If it's bearing/lifter clearances, wouldn't the oil pressure suck all the time? I have wore out mills, (big clearances) and the pressure is low across the board.

It all comes back to the pick up tube "clearance" and/or not enough pan.



A performance pan is probably warranted but I didn't have an issue with a stock pan & pickup in the previous 401. I will probably invest in one.

-Steve-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2014 at 12:00pm
How big is the hole in the cam journal? Below shows a Bullet cam next to a stock cam. The Bullet cam has a smaller hole and isn't grooved. Seems to oil ok (with a Rollmaster set).

When it's not in-line with cam bearing hole, does the Rollmaster flow much?



Edited by Red Devil - May/26/2014 at 12:46pm
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