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Temp and Fuel Gauge don't work
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InRogue View Drop Down
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Joined: Aug/20/2018
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Points: 362 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote InRogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/05/2018 at 5:26pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Yes, there is a removable regulator on the back of the instrument panel on the 66. Looks like a little metal container, plugs in. Lucky you have a 66 -- starting in 67 the regulator is made into the fuel gauge and a lot harder to repair.

Frank did some checking and it ended up being a bad connection at the fuse, a little cleaning of the terminal and all lights and gauges now work. Okay what's next on the list :) 
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Points: 19686 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/05/2018 at 5:42pm
Lucky you!! For those not so lucky, you can get replacement bi-metal regulators that just plug in, but the solid state regulator is a better choice. The bi-metal regulator gives a 5V average. You can't measure the voltage output with a digital VOM because it never stays the same. Even an old analog VOM will bounce between 0 and 12V. The "regulator" cuts on and off, and the average should be 5-6V. The gauges aren't real picky. A solid state 7805 regulator will provide a constant 5V. They don't have enough load to heat up under the dash. Mine has been in the car since 2002 or so, and it has traveled 70-80K during that time, and still works great. See http://sr-ix.com/AMC/dashreg/index.html
Frank Swygert
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Points: 362 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote InRogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2018 at 8:27pm
Found this tonight searching the inter web....might help someone out looking for one. 
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Points: 19686 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/17/2018 at 6:13am
$5 or so and some soldering will get you an electronic regulator though. If you simply must have it 100% stock then you have to spend the money. On things like this where no one would ever know unless they removed the instrument panel I wouldn't spend the money, but I do understand that many would just want to keep it all stock and working as original. Nothing wrong with either way. $50 shouldn't break anyone's resto budget either...
Frank Swygert
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I installed one of these last year. Worked great until last Weekend. havent  taken the dash out again to see what going on.     
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-vrc601?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-standard-motor-products&gclid=Cj0KCQiAr93gBRDSARIsADvHiOp6s7eL6jwfRRzRTBhnO3iad2iQntPUei69--3yb8K9xZyr96K1jecaAtUgEALw_wcB
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Points: 19686 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/18/2018 at 5:38am
The Standard product is likely made in Mexico. The problem with the low volume parts is that they are made by smaller companies, not actually by Standard. Quality varies. Fine for a show car, but if you drive a lot they don't typically last long. If Ron Francis Wiring has one I'd try them, as they typically use high quality parts. Scott Drake has electronic FORD style regulators that look original but have a solid state regulator inside, but won't fit AMC and I don't think they make a Chrysler/AMC part (I think Chrysler and AMC interchange). I've had a simple 5V regulator as I noted in a couple earlier posts (link to TomJ's site) in my car since 2003 with no issues at all, can't get more reliable than that!
Frank Swygert
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Does anyone have a step by step on how to add the voltage regulator? Some of the links in this thread no longer work and I'm having a hard time picturing what I need to purchase and where to attach. I have a 73 Gremlin with internal regulator in the temp gauge. I've cleaned the contact in there but no luck.
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Installed:  https://www.ramblerlore.com/AMC/dashreg/index.html
nick
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Points: 24 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tunes12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2023 at 6:22am
Thank you for that. While it helps understand the concept, I’m not clear on where to connect the wires I’m adding on my Gremlin board.
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Points: 19686 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2023 at 7:56am
That link doesn't help the late model American (I think 67-69? I might be off a year either way on the start year...) and Hornet/Gremlin guys. I did a quick search and found this (line through words are corrections!):

"Starting in 68 all small car got the limiter built into the FUEL  TEMP gauge (checked the 68 TSM!). So 12V goes to the temp gauge, is limited to 5-6V, then is jumped from the 5-6V output over to the fuel gauge. The IVR in the link is for big cars and Americans made prior to 68 (might be 67... would have to look at the TSMS). So it's not doing you any good.   The fuels temp gauge has three studs -- ground, 12V, and 5V that jumps over to the two stud temp fuel gauge. You can disassemble the fuel temp gauge and break the 5V and 12V connections inside. Then you can run a solid state regulator (7805) outside the cluster. It can be mounted on the ground stud. The tab and the center pin are both ground, internally connected, so if you mount on the ground stud you can clip off the center regulator pin. Jump a wire from the 12V stud to the input of the regulator, then run a wire from the 5V output to the 5V stud. You will need a wire feeding the fuel gauge to come back to the 5V stud also.

The only thread I found where someone did this had broken links -- it's from 2011. Doc Creer (member name on here, should be current) said he did his..."


Edited by farna - Aug/10/2023 at 8:00am
Frank Swygert
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