Mega Modding Braking, Suspension & Steering

Sounds real interesting, and I think I have it pictured right in my head. Guess I'll see when you get far enough along for pics!

Check out some of the 4WD parts places. There are some spherical joints made for extreme angle 4x4 suspension parts (four links and panhard rods) out there. Can't remember what website I saw them on, but sounds like what you're working on. No point in reinventing the wheel if you can find them ready to go...

In my other thread about finding info on changing out the AMC upper ball joint, I mentioned that a stumbled upon a thread on another site. Well, I also found some info about this thread. Which surprised me, and also made me feel irratated that peeps will point out my methods without directly asking me here. Giving the wrong info so to speak.

I thought I clearly stated I would gladly answer any questions, and hope peeps don't feel they will offend me by saying your doing it wrong. It's when they say it without knowing the design. It's not perfect yet, but until it get the wheels on the ground, and iron out any further adjustments, nothing is set in stone to how I am doing this setup. Though, it is 90% in the ball park.

I would have posted this long winded reply on the site in question, but I am not able to register. Does not like my email address or some thing. So hopefully they will get the word and use this site to ask questions, and not guess and assume.

To answer the question which ended up being a given assumption I am doing things wrong...

My answer is that they fail to notice that I changed the spring mounting to UCA. Since AMC has a tall spring perch, and Ford has a short one, by using a Ford purch, the UCA is 2 inches in the upper arc range under load without changing springs. Thus a drop without dropped spindles or spring rate change, or dropping plates. This type of drop changes a a lot of how the suspension functions under loads. Almost the complete opposite of how an AMC suspension functions under load.

I basically preloaded the suspension without adding a load to the springs, not just drop the height, which many drop kits don't do, unless you have a custom coil over setup.

Which puts camber at rest closer max camber when compressed, when already set at rest. Plus the LCA is moved close to its full extension (parallel to the ground), should keep camber more steady as it's arc travel will shorten it's distance between its pivot and track with upper arm.

The stock AMC arc will kick the camber out with the travel extending the lower arm out when it becomes parallel to the ground under compression.

I will not run more than 2 inches of travel, as I will be utilising packers in each shock, and limit travel when wheels are exerted from lift off the ground.

This will keep the suspension range between 0 and 2" travel at near steady camber. Have test with my spring removed to notice how lower arm and upper arm travel at the higher end of the arc.

In essence they are trying to make my mods fit into the AMC suspension setup that they are accustom to. I thought my explanations and pictures showed that this is not a true AMC suspension. It's a hybrid 50/50 AMC/Ford with mods to function for track.

Here is a copy from the site.

PseudoSport Dork Dec. 28, 2016 2:58 p.m.

So the guy is making a wide track Javelin by using a 65" wide f150 rear axle in the rear. To get the front to match he is using a 2" spacer and lengthened the lower control arm 1.120" Since he extended the lower arm he then had to move the upper arm an inch out as well. He also moved the upper mount 1" back towards the firewall to correct caster. I didn't read if he was also moving the upper mount down as well. If not then the camber curve and roll center will not be corrected.

I didn't see why he used Mustang II spindles but my guess is they lower the front 2"? They are also .70" shorter then stock which would make the camber curve worse.

Well I did not take it as being impolite, just the fact nobody bothered to question when stating they seen my thread, and were not sure.

It so happens I am so use to having to explain things that over explaining is not a bother. Just how much do I need to add to clearly show what I had hoped to share. Maybe too many words or the fact I use my thread to keep track in some way where I leave off. As most do some thing post and move on to another detail.

I am one to put a lot of ideas down and move from one completion before doing the next. Thus the big move with the suspension humps. Once I start it will be a mess if I don't have things right.

Now I have as recent thrown a change up once more, with my upper ball joint swap. Going from thinking about dropping the upper control arms 1 inch (cut rectangular sections and weld the mounting plates 180°), then returning back to using thr upper ball joint spacers, and back to eliminating the need for spacers with a ball joint swap. Which I will start on soon, once I figure out which manufacturer will be best as my choices are limited.

Though I have found that the short run (mid 90s) C5 Corvette upper ball joint to be a possible fit, but it only uses two elongated mounting holes. Funny thing is that they may align with the existing front two mounting holes on the UCA, and not require any physical mods done, outside of reaming the upright's upper arm to a 10° taper. Though I don't see any long pin versions, so a spacer will probably be needed. Geeze

Well any way, I hope word does make it about on the other forum, as to see some options that may help with their needs. Though my spring perch mod should help more with camber than using a drop plate, and get the proper drop with a purely stock suspension.

I hope to get my poly bushings and Delrin balls done for mounting soon. Have been waiting for a bushing to use as a pilot for the cupping of the poly bushings. Once I create the proper spherical cups, I can create a wood block ball holder to secure for drilling a perfect centered hole. Rather keep my ball cutting tool clean and sharp for the poly bushing 1st, and then cut on wood once done.

Edited by 304-dude - Aug/15/2017 at 7:44am

The updated post (use the link, or just go to page 8) clarifies things a lot! I think it is a great mode for performance use, but I'll keep my two piece rubber strut rod bushings for street use. The poly bushings sent a noticeable jar through the floor of my car every time I hit a pothole, even a smaller one. That's why I cut and welded the strut rods so they could be adjusted in front and use a late model two piece rubber bushing in the first place (early 60s cars don't have a nut in front to adjust, and the poly busing has to be trimmed down to fit). But for a road racer your solution is more elegant than any other I've seen, and looks pretty much stock at first glance. So now you need to make a modified bushing and Delrin ball available...  You might want to contact someone at Prothane with the idea, not sure you can get anything from them for the idea, since there is nothing patentable (at least I don't think so -- could be, but can cost a bit to find out), but worth a shot.