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Mega Modding Braking, Suspension & Steering

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/28/2017 at 6:28am
Hi farna, i am simplifying my mod further. Well to me it is simpler just to use the two bushings without modding bushings or cutting the brake pedal to align.

I had been jumping back and fourth with what I need and the needs of others who want more of a stock fit. Thus the complications of sorting my measurements and what needs to be done for stock fitment with rods and hole location.

I figured I can align the brake pedal and work on the clutch section independently for my needs. So it is less complicated for most installs.

The only big thing is removing the brake foot and welding it 1 Inch towards center. Needed for foot clearance for gas pedal and keeps the bushings as is.

I am in the middle of redoing my post and will have It updated soon. I think i still have time to delete it and repost with new info, so whoever has been watching will be forced the new info as it is posted as the latest ed date, not as past posting.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/28/2017 at 7:40am
Ok, I updated the original post on the GM pedals. I will have to look up the year... I know they are for Camaro and other like bodied cars.

They are 69 Camaro and Nova pedals. Geezo, the price on them have risen, I guess the $30 dollar purchase I got on ebay from a private seller did me some good. He did not need them, and were un used. Just had to get the pads and trim separately. I think $50 was total cost at the time.

Edited by 304-dude - Jun/28/2017 at 4:02pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RTTComanche17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/28/2017 at 11:57am
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

The bronze bushings are not available locally anymore. The 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD x 3/4" will have to be ordered online. The odd thing is that the new bushing's fitment is way too snug, so be aware some bushings are not properly clearanced, like my old stock pieces.

You may know this, but just a note for everyone if you are buying bushings: Most bushings are listed at their nominal diameters like you listed above, but check the actual part specs and drawings if they have them. Generally there will be a few choices per nominal size. Meaning if you are looking for a 5/8" ID, they should carry them as a press fit -0.001" (0.624" ID) or as a clearance fit +0.001" (0.626" ID), depending on application. The same goes for the OD, and you can generally get varying degrees of press fit or clearance fit (+/- 0.0005 to +/- 0.003 or so) depending on application.

This may be the source of your fitment issues. But as said before, a bit of file or sandpaper work should do it if you don't want to try different bushings.


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1967 Rambler American #2 - project car, but it runs!...for now...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/28/2017 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by RTTComanche17 RTTComanche17 wrote:



Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

The bronze bushings are not available locally anymore. The 5/8" ID x 7/8" OD x 3/4" will have to be ordered online. The odd thing is that the new bushing's fitment is way too snug, so be aware some bushings are not properly clearanced, like my old stock pieces.


You may know this, but just a note for everyone if you are buying bushings: Most bushings are listed at their nominal diameters like you listed above, but check the actual part specs and drawings if they have them. Generally there will be a few choices per nominal size. Meaning if you are looking for a 5/8" ID, they should carry them as a press fit -0.001" (0.624" ID) or as a clearance fit +0.001" (0.626" ID), depending on application. The same goes for the OD, and you can generally get varying degrees of press fit or clearance fit (+/- 0.0005 to +/- 0.003 or so) depending on application.

This may be the source of your fitment issues. But as said before, a bit of file or sandpaper work should do it if you don't want to try different bushings.





Ah, yes that Is a good point. My correctly fitting bushings are Hillman, the new one I picked up is unknown to me, and seems to be a press fit.

None the less I made a good correction in setting up with only two bushings, to allow the brake pedal a proper factory alignment for connection to rod and brake switch function. Just have to move the foot over an inch to be good.

If wanting more space between the pedals, you can move the clutch foot about 1/2" to keep the distance more like factory.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/29/2017 at 7:33am
Just updated and buttoned up my section on GM clutch pedal installation. I think there is nothing more to add by me for now at least. Unless someone likes to tinker and share their findings, or states a mistake in my part somewhere, consider it complete for now.

Since my intentions are beyond any transmission use, the application I chose has effected how one may look at how I implemented my setup. Well anywho, it works for me, and because there are some who do tinker and get things done creatively, I chose to share it like all my other bits n bobs.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/13/2017 at 3:34pm
Good news... Well sort of. Humidity and heat has been the life of me. As I am waiting and waiting... I got to mocking up further on the modded sway bar setup. A good while back I cut out a section from my AMC 20 cut off axle tube, from selling my center section.

I got around drilling a 1-1/8" diameter hole for welding a grounded taper on a large flanged tractor lug nut to be welded on both sides.

Then I needed to grind off some edge to wedge into the bottom side of the spring perch, under the tube for bushings. It will be welded in place and reinforced a wee bit by bridging from the custom adapter. It will be the base to center the leverage against the action of the suspension.

Since I am able to work within the radius of the way the perch underside is made, I can offset the angle to point out toward the wheel, to allow moisture drainage, as it is mounted in a concave fashion, and will allow better angle for when the spring compresses.

As the big bonus.... drum roll... no need to modify the stock or aftermarket front sway bar with my 1 inch outward and 1 inch back towards the firewall modded suspension humps. I never planed that the sway bar could align up so well just by a slight change to point that angle of deflection out towards the wheel, Instead of straight up.

Just that wee messing around got me feeling drained and sticky. So i save this for another day to pull the spring and spring perch for the customisation.

Will get around cleaning up all the mess about bending or modding the sway bar. And take some updated pictures of the sway bar mounting.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 12:21pm
Stabilizing strut rod & lower control arm performance


Since the strut rod has three weaknesses, that make the strut rod temperamental and unreliable. Really does not do its job to stabilise the lower control arm under normal use, let alone performance use.

Here are the three weaknesses.

○ The threaded tapered end is flexed at the point of stress, make it weak under extremes and if rusted after time.

○ Flexable bushed pivot lacks stability with rubber bushings after time and under extreme conditions, which can allow binding against the ridged bracket which is to keep rod and bushings stable. Unfortunately rubber wears and will conform under pressure and create a memory condition, allowing oval elongation of alignment.

○ Geometry is effected by sway bar as suspension compresses. Too much force acting against the strut bar natural movement.

I covered how to modify sway bar to make it more effective and release the control arm's to function without forces working against them. So the 3rd weakness is not directly related to the strut bar mechanism it's self.

To relieve the top two issues, you can simply add reinforcements to assist with stabilising the strut rod. I will explain further with each small modification.

Since the strut rod only gets adjusted when bushings wear and alignment goes off on caster, one can assume for the most part caster is more static than the dynamics of wear, as long as the rubber bushings hold up. Well they don't unfortunately.

That brings up how to make the weakest part more robust and less problematic. Poly bushings, I know it puts people off, but it takes a bit of change to allow the poly bushings to work without effecting integrity.

Let's go backwards and go as we assemble each component from the very first nut. We all know the nut is not placed up against the very last thread. So why not add reinforcement and use that reinforcement to place the strut rod length at its optimum for your desired caster. This requires having all new bushings or spherical pivots and adjustments done proper, to measure where the nut is on the large washer to hold the bushing in place.

Once you have the length down, use a steel sleeve of 11/16" ID to assist with stress suppression. Then v cut and flare the end and wedge it onto the strut rod at the end of the taper. Measure the distance needed to cut and allow for lock nut and the adjusting nut to be set for final installation. Refit the sleeve and weld in place, then install the nuts tight against the sleeve. Now the large washer and bushing is ready to be installed.

Wait... not so fast. We need to do something important. Now to support and keep the strut rod centered in a flexible environment. I will choose a 35mm ball to fit inside the mounting bracket.


Below, I placed the Delrin ball about midway inside the mounting bracket's bushing alignment hole, for visual reference.



Note the casting line of the poly bushing is about its mid area. Fairly close to where the ball should fit at its radius.



Delrin seems to fit for no maintenance and added durability. Machining it to fit the poly bushing's steel sleeve through it's center, will not be such a difficult task. The steel sleeve will still be needed to install and place proper compression on the bushings.

Trouble is what to do to keep the ball in place? Ha!

The bloody bushings, ya ninny!

Yes, it's a floating pivot if not tight or within a Flexable environment. Since I chose to use poly bushings under compression, flex is very minimal.

Not done yet! Need to hollow out a dome out on the bushing to allow the 35mm delrin ball to fit within it's confines. Now do you see what we are making? A ball joint!

Here is my modified centering support for drilling near perfect ball cups into the poly bushings.



Since my strut rod bracket needed some rust repair done adding a few holes was not a problem. Ha!

My multi use aluminum plate is used to lightly compress the bushings under pressure, as to make a better fit when things are assembled. I will mount a plate and drill a 1/4" pilot hole to center the ball bit in place. It will assist the pilot bushing, which will be slid inside the poly bushing steel sleeve, in keeping the bit 90° as it bites into the poly bushing, for about 1/2" deep cut.

To drill a center hole in the Delrin, will wrap surgical tape around it and clamp it securely.

I will use a 11/16" OD 1/2" ID nylon bushing to use a a pilot guide for the bearing tipped ball cutter to keep centered while cutting the cup for the Delrin ball to seat. The nylon bushing will slide into the poly bushing's steel sleeve so no special alignment tool needs to be machined.











Now all we need to do is oversize by slotting the bushing hole.



Below you can see how I reshaped by rounding the edges of the flat side to face the washer. It dramatically improves pivot smoothness as well.




Once the mods to your poly bushings are done, the final assembly is done as you normally would.

Below is my almost completed poly bushing mod, still needs a few minor tweaks. All pictures are done without loosening compression nuts for adjustment by hand. Yes, it takes some force to move because of tightness, but does not fight against movement like all other replacement bushing materials.

Please note, the pictures were set by improper orientation of bracket assembly for better image clarity of components.





I am able to obtain 3 inches of unrestricted travel. Though I have not done as much for downward travel, since my suspension is set for 1.5" downward max. I do believe if I further elongate the bottom travel, I will obtain 4" of unrestricted travel. Along with 5" total up and down travel that has minor restriction at .500" above top and bottom sliding movement.

By rounding up the edges of the bushing to allow a better sliding action, the bushings stay in place better but I still recommend obtaining the metal bushing cups from the rubber bushings kit.

That's it! All buttoned up, it should be as sturdy as a mechanical pivot, but without the harsh feeling. Though it Is harsher than the old rubber bushed strut rod assembly.

Here is a more factory look install with Teflon washer.



The washer will need to be thinned a wee bit. Too thick to conform fully to the bevel of the steel washer, though it does conform some. Also it adds a wee too much pressure to the bushings, since it Is fairly thick.

The Teflon washer does a good job installed at the rear steel washer end as well. Once I thin them a out 1/2 their thickness, I can adjust the bushing fitment further. May need to thin the tops of the bushings a wee bit as well to make up for the Teflon washer's added thickness to the stack. As the steel sleeve is set for proper bushing preload.

Here is my improved factory strut rod mod... the threads and taper have been removed at the adjustment nut, by welding 1/2 of a strut rod bushing sleeve to alleviate flex strain at the unused threads near the taper. Doing this makes the rod stronger and eliminates bending and breakage.



Edited by 304-dude - Jun/05/2019 at 12:33pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2017 at 7:42am
Just a nit to pick... I wouldn't say the strut rod is weak or unreliable -- it's neither. Been proven for 50+ years in my car alone. It has some compromises, but all production products have to be a balance between performance and cost (not only of manufacturing, but of assembly time/complexity as well). So as a performance suspension it leaves a lot to be desired, but for it's intended purpose it's totally adequate. Maybe not much more than "adequate", but it does it's job well for a reasonable amount of time. In snow/salt country rusting can be an issue for anything, but kept clean or in areas where salt isn't used, rust isn't an issue. The rubber bushings wearing after 10-30 years, 100K+ miles isn't an issue of design, just maintenance.  Third party replacement parts or NOS replacement rubber that's sat on the shelf 20+ years isn't a reliability issue of the design, but a parts/maintenance issue.

So for serious performance, it's not the best. But even for that it's been reliable in near stock form -- Breedlove had to run it, as did Donohue...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2017 at 8:36am
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Just a nit to pick... I wouldn't say the strut rod is weak or unreliable -- it's neither. Been proven for 50+ years in my car alone. It has some compromises, but all production products have to be a balance between performance and cost (not only of manufacturing, but of assembly time/complexity as well). So as a performance suspension it leaves a lot to be desired, but for it's intended purpose it's totally adequate. Maybe not much more than "adequate", but it does it's job well for a reasonable amount of time. In snow/salt country rusting can be an issue for anything, but kept clean or in areas where salt isn't used, rust isn't an issue. The rubber bushings wearing after 10-30 years, 100K+ miles isn't an issue of design, just maintenance.  Third party replacement parts or NOS replacement rubber that's sat on the shelf 20+ years isn't a reliability issue of the design, but a parts/maintenance issue.

So for serious performance, it's not the best. But even for that it's been reliable in near stock form -- Breedlove had to run it, as did Donohue...


Hi, yes I started off a bit harsh on the strut rod. Mainly because in the 10 or so years watching posts off and on, seems that them strut rods now are being more problematic than ever. Age of bushings, and wear and tear rod and rusted away mounting bracket holes, over time and the effects of road salt conditions.

I expected from my mods to show performance more than practical use of components for most needs. The mod also is intended to be maintenance free for extreme conditions.

For a long time I have been expressing my thoughts on the aftermarket replacements, and finally decided to put my plan into action with what can be found readily available, and as a simple option to upgrade and still look close to a factory strut rod install.

As an update,

I ordered my teflon washers, 35mm Delrin balls, and 35mm half round cutter for cupping the poly bushings to fit snuggly around the Delrin balls.

Until I am able to setup and put the mod into action and post pictures, further info is added in this reply, on the slight variation and addition of teflon washers.

The ball should center perfectly within the mounting bracket. As the thickness of the bracket is plenty enough to keep the ball centered when forces drive against the ball as it rotates.

Since the ball is free floating, I will modify the way the poly bushings fit into the bracket. As each bushing has a deep locating ring to fit inside the mounting bracket hole for fitment of the strut bar.

The locating ring is as thick as it is deep, so it should allow a half round plunge cut to incase 94% of the Delrin ball once assembled, once the bushing retaining ring is cut down by 1/2 of its height, so that the retaining ring will still keep the bushing in place. Thus allowing pivot in and around the bushing with the Delrin ball and strut rod washers

Also by utilising an oversized tapered strut rod hole, pivot will be less restricted by bushing pressure around the shaft. Removing interference and counter interactions has been my primary goal with all suspension parts. By removing negative interactions, it puts less wear and tare on bushings in all areas.

Once the bushings are installed, the use of oversized teflon washers will act as a low friction substrate to allow the thick washer to slip around the poly bushings. Both inner and outer compressing washers will be cupped around the rounded ends of the poly bushings. Unconventional as it is, the whole assembly acts as a captive ball joint, with very little resistance to pivot, compared to any other OE bushing install.



Edited by 304-dude - Jul/27/2017 at 9:32am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2017 at 10:26am
One thing I forgot to add, mainly it is theory of operation.

Instead of the bushings being utilised as both a point of pivot and to locate strut rod securely. My method removes the bushings from the pivot equation. The bushings are to only serve as a means to locate both strut rod and ball securely.

The ball is to create a near perfect pivot point that does not shift under load, and should not create negative forces in its actions.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
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