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343 build ideas 350+hp

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huddy1955 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 4:01am
G'day all, some of you may already seen posts on my rare Aussie built RHD 69 AMX 343 AUTO. I have searched past many posts on a 343 build, very little results. Being a rare AMX, I will be restoring it back to the condition as it has left to showroom floor back in 1969. I will keep it a factory number matching car so the 343 will stay put. Saying that, I would like to increase the power from the factory 280hp to about 350 or a little more. If I could achieve that then I would be happy. This extra horse power would need to be hidden under a stock looking engine bay, I don't want it looking like a full on street machine or hot rod under the hood.

I have not yet touched the motor so measurements of the bore is unknown but this would be no problems. What cam, pistons, head work, exhaust and inlet manifolds should I use. Group 19 parts or equivalent replacement parts might be ideal. It just got to look factory.


I purchased the car around last September and I have gradually being buying NOS bits and pieces from all over the place....long way to go still. Soon I will start stripping her down to bare shell and go from there (i will start a new project thread later on this AMX). Any ideas would be great. All I what is a stunning built Aussie AMX that looks all factory but would go as hard if not better than a stock 390. Thanks, Steve.


the 343 mentioned




the aussie build tag number 9 of only 24



tail lights, reflector and bumper I sat there for this photo


1955 Hudson Hornet Custom
1963 Rambler Classic 660 wagon
1969 AMX 343 auto NO# 09 of 24
1973 Rambler Matador Wagon 360
1985 Jeep J20 pick up 360
2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic
plenty of parts cars
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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 5:50am
If you the want stock look then you can only really play with the cam, head porting and compression, you could slip a 360 crank in there though.
 
I have a 360 crank in my 343, but Edelbrock heads, airgap mainifold, holley carby and headers, so it's lost a bit of the stock look.
 
 
Has 272 HP at the treads, so pretty close to your 350HP mark (at the crank).
 
I'm sure you could get there with port work and a big enough cam
 
Of course if you just want to liven it up a bit, ditch those factory 2.87 gears for something a bit shorter.
 


Edited by WesternRed - Feb/24/2013 at 5:57am
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SC397 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 8:32am
Page 7 shows a 343 with a 360 crank that I am building. This one will end up at 368 CID.  In your case if you want to keep the original Borg Warner automatic, you will need to find a 1970 or 1971 crank:
 http://rebsamcandjeep.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=engines&action=display&thread=11&page=7
Page 9 shows how to build a 383 stroker out of a 343.
http://forum1.aimoo.com/realamcperformance/Engines/Winter-Engine-Builds-9-1898227.html


Edited by SC397 - Feb/24/2013 at 8:33am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bikerfox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 8:42am
Having just been down that route with a 390, and knowing someone who took a 343 and brought it up to 408 hp at the crank, you'll have to make substantial changes.  You WILL have to ditch your current, stock carb, intake, and cam.  You can paint the new intake to match the engine, thus reducing the "non-stockness" of the intake.  You WILL have to either run free flow exhaust, Rebel machine exhaust manifolds, or headers, as the factory exhaust manifolds are too restrictive.  You don't have to run Eddy heads; just get your stock iron heads ported to a great extent.  And, of course, most engine internals will change. Those more well-versed on the internals will comment, I'm sure.  Have fun!
1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011)
1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019)
1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 348AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 8:05pm
You can still find an R4B and paint it AMC blue for the stock look. Paint the valve covers the same. Get the heads professionally ported with lighter valves. The cam is where you'll build the power. AMC's like 110-112 deg lob seperation angles. Something with 230 deg duration at .050 lift and an asymetrical lift with more on the exhaust side, for example .500/.525.   A good exhaust with full length headers and 2.5" dia pipes for the full system with striaght through mufflers. You could also bump the mechanical compression with a set of custom pistons to get more then the 350 goal. But 350 is easily attainable with the parts mentioned. A 750 AFB will look stock and give you all the airflow you could possibly need.   MSD distributor with a black cap and pertronix wires will give the stock look and supply all the timming you could possibly need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 9:16pm
Not all that hard to do.  Some head work, a performance cam and intake and a bigger carb and then better flowing exhaust as suggested by others.  You will not hit 350 with stock exhaust manifolds on stock 343 heads.  You can get there with 291C heads and AMC freeflows or possibly even with 090 or 993 heads and freeflows.  Of course headers will resolve the issue by replacing the poor flowing factory log manifolds on the stock heads. 
 
I had a 68 390 that calculated to be between 420 and 425 HP with nearly stock 68 390 heads (same as the 343) based upon the car's ET and MPH in a clocked 1/4 mile at the drag strip so 350 out of your 343 is certainly doable.
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2013 at 10:17pm
Your biggest issue will be heads and exhaust. Here are some options:

1) Use headers. 
2) Change to dogleg heads and use free flows
3) I have seen freeflows modified so that they will fit to a square port head

As for the other stuff, an R4B is arguably "stock" and you already have a holley vacuum secondary carb of some sort. Recurve the ignition and use hd points/condenser or an electronic conversion. Camshaft is going to be critical, check with the manufacturers. The factory heads are probably ok, being in that they are the same as the ones on a 390 and should flow fine. A port match and a bit of smoothing in the ports would be time well spent, but I don't think a full on port and polish is needed for what you are planning. 

Your big restrictions in that motor are the factory exhaust and induction. Open those up and give it a cam to take advantage of that and you should be fine.

The gear change mentioned here would also be a good idea. I changed from 2.87 open to a Twin Grip 3.15 differential and that made a noticeable difference. I have a feeling you are looking at a fair bit of hi-speed driving if my impression of Australia is correct, so anything lower may be an issue. 

Something else you may want to consider if you are doing any extended hi-speed jaunts is oil return lines. As you may know, the drain back holes in a second generation AMC V8 have trouble keeping up with the oil in the top end above 3500-4000 rpms. You can plumb a return line from the valve covers to the pan to solve that issue. 

I hope that helps,

Chris  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2013 at 8:53am
All we really did to the stock 68 heads on my old AMX was to cc them and do a 5 angle valve job (and of course better springs and retainers for the much bigger cam).  The headers took care of the stock exhaust restrictions. 
Freeflows adapted to the stock rectangle port heads require that you use the rectangle port gaskets and defeat most of the benefit.  In the early 70s, a car mag added freeflows to an early rectangle port 390 and only picked up a measured 6-8 HP.  There is nothing wrong with 68/69 343/390 heads for a mild build and headers are a lot easier to install than swapping out the heads and having to modify the intake to bolt to the higher center manifold bolts.  I am not usually a big fan of headers but they are the best option for big power increases on the early heads due to the factory log manifolds being so restrictive.  Machine manifolds on the early heads won't provide much benefit due to also being log style and only have a scant 1/4" increase in outlet pipe ID but are still the much poorer log style when compared to  much better designed and flowing later model AMC freeflows.

Edited by amx39068 - Feb/25/2013 at 8:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skynless Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/31/2013 at 3:26pm
Hello, I plan to do one of two things to my '69 Ambassador:
1. Rebuild 343
2. Find 360 and create a 383 stroker using the generic recipe i've seen posted around the web.

Should I use the 343? I don't have much engine experience so I'm wondering if you have the actual recipe you used for the 343 to 383 stroker? I'd like the cheaper route for just a street car that can smoke the tires and sound good.

Here is the general recipe I am interested in for the 360: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=110924

Thanks!
1968 Rebel SST 343
1968 Ambassador SST 343
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/31/2013 at 3:49pm
Originally posted by skynless skynless wrote:

Hello, I plan to do one of two things to my '69 Ambassador:
1. Rebuild 343
2. Find 360 and create a 383 stroker using the generic recipe i've seen posted around the web.

Should I use the 343? I don't have much engine experience so I'm wondering if you have the actual recipe you used for the 343 to 383 stroker? I'd like the cheaper route for just a street car that can smoke the tires and sound good.

Here is the general recipe I am interested in for the 360: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=110924

Thanks!
The 343 is basically just a shorter stroke version of the 360 and also has a shorter block height.  You can put a 360 crank in it and get custom pistons made to have a zero deck.  Remanned 360 cranks with bearings are available from NAPA and others for fairly short money so the most expensive thing you will have are the custom made pistons which need to have a compression height of 1.580 for zero deck if you use the 360 crank in the 343.  An affordable way to go would be a set of Wiseco high compression pistsons and either get thicker than stock head gaskets by .010 (.055 instead of .045) or have the top of the pistons milled .010 to get to 1.580 from their original 1.590 height.  If your  block needs to be decked you would have to add the same amount to the amount milled off the Wiseco pistons or just have them take .010 off the top of the block and get .020 thicker than stock head gaskets.
 
If you want cheap for a street car, the stroker is the wrong way to go.  Fancy performance stuff like making a stroker quickly adds $$$$ to an othewise very affordable build and is not the type of build someone with limited knowledge should undertake.
 
If it were my car I would just find an inexpensive rebuildable 360 and put high compression pistons, a nice cam, intake and carb on it and perhaps have some affordable headwork like port matching on the heads, intake and exhaust ports and be done with it.
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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