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69 SC Journey |
Post Reply | Page <1 4647484950 95> |
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kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Bill - I'm pretty sure that it does rotate by hand ok, I will double check it early this week to confirm. You may also want to communicate with Ross Peterson on questions you have on your rear build.
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401MATCOUPE
AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5368 |
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Bill....I built Kevin's rear, gosh that sounds weird....rear axle..okay better. The pinion gear/bearings should have a preload, but it is like 15inch pounds max running....that what the collapsible spacer does, when you tighten the nut you are adjusting this preload...super easy to go to far, it is a tedious task...ask Kevin. Then you set the backlash....that is a slight clearance between the ring and pinion gears...I am making this real simple...but just to demonstrate how NOTHING is in a real bind or should be hard to turn. If you can bare turn the input/pinion yoke with your hand, something is wrong.......take it apart and keep checking the rotational force at each disassembly point. It could be as simple as the axle end play is too tight to worst case, the pinion depth is wrong.
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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theamcguy
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Fayetteville NC Status: Offline Points: 241 |
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Ross, Thank you for the explanation. Mine definitely got too tight.
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Bill Strobel
Fayetteville, NC 1967 Rebel SST 1969 SC/Rambler 1972 Hornet Sportabout 1976 Matador Brougham AMCRC. AMCWC, AMO, NAMDRA |
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kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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The moment you know you have been sanding way too long:
... when you can measure the accumulated pile of filler and primer dust from one side of the car with a measuring stick (over 2" deep as shown...) Put it on, take it off. Repeat. I wonder if you could reconstitute all the 2k primer dust.... The right rear quarter is now 24" long board blocked at 220 and the front fenders are both long blocked at 150. The left rear quarter (except the top at trunk lid) is blocked at 320 and awaiting final 2k coat. Right after this photo I laid down some 2k on the right rear and both front fenders. Trying to get the left front blocked up to 320 very shortly now so I can pull the fender and complete the left roof rail/door post strip and prime. I need to get the internal frame coating in, and then hoping to roll the car over for a little finish work in the right rear wheelwell in the next week. Trying to get to finish primer coat on the shell before Cleveland. We will see... Looking forward to seeing "East Coasters" at Cecil this weekend!
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kirkwood
Moderator Group Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 6564 |
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I love it Kevin! You are making serious progress!
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AMO Newsletter Editor
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kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Ian - Finish body work and block sanding are my "sweet spot" and perfect therapy right now, so I have been enjoying this part of the job. Many people do not like this - but I love it. Grew up doing this. It's kinda like Gibbs on NCIS when he goes and sands on his boat after a long day - relaxing....
Hoping to get these final coats of primer down so I get as long of a dry time before top coat as possible. If I have a shot at paint this year it has to be mid-late September here; several things have to quickly fall into place for that to happen, but I'm focusing on what I can control - sand, sand sand!
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Ram Air Rick
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/04/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2667 |
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Looking great Kevin...
Block block and more blocking! That baby going to be straight as an arrow ! True work of art in progress ! Rich C.
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kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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NOS treasures from Cecil Co. race day flea market.
Hoping that the scratches haven't gone into the base metal, and that these can be strong candidates for a light glass bead and nickel / chrome flash. My originals have rust. |
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kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Catch up time:
I've been preparing a few things for the trip to Cleveland. The T10 got pulled out of storage and basic degreasing / fluid removal for transporting to give to Ian for a rebuild over the winter - next spring. Found a couple paint mark details to share: Tail shaft area, right beside the casting ID info. Looks to be a 2" or so brush of white the showed up after cleaning some tail end grease away: Next to the speedo gear hole - what looks to be a faded orange? paint dribble: Changing gears, I've been working body prep lately. Rear quarters are looking mighty fine. Front fenders are finally coming around - stampings were not super great on American front fenders, a lot of blocking work to get them dead level. However there was a project that I had been putting off, and now I had to get it done as I am approaching final priming coat. The car was not "holey" enough for paint until last night. I decided to share this small bit of work, as most of you will never have to do this to your cars - but of course, this project journey takes me down the path less traveled more often than not.... 1) Rear quarter panel reflector mounting holes. With NOS fenders, I had to locate and drill the holes for the rear reflectors for the 68/69 cars. Using the left original quarter as a pattern: Transferred to the new quarter, drilled, and test fitted with NOS bling: 2) Quarter Window rubber seal mounting holes. This is something I can almost guarantee that no one else will ever have to do. If you remember back to one of my rants last year about the NOS panels being "factory seconds", you will recall me talking about the missing details on the left NOS quarter and the holes I would eventually have to add. Well here goes - more templates from the original quarter being transferred to the new one: These holes are trickier being slotted holes. I made profile divots through the tracing paper: Then drilled two holes per, first with a pilot and then to size: Then to complete the slots, I got out my Dremel (if you don't have one of these tools, buy one - they save your tush more times than you'll count), with a small metal cutter bit, and carefully opened up the holes: So after nearly 50 years, this piece of Kenosha sheetmetal is finally completed the way the engineers designed it. Guess it is never too late to finish the job! Glad the holes in the body are done now. Holey enough to paint!!
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Ram Air Rick
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/04/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2667 |
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[QUOTE=kcsamc]Catch up time:
I've been preparing a few things for the trip to Cleveland. The T10 got pulled out of storage and basic degreasing / fluid removal for transporting to give to Ian for a rebuild over the winter - next spring. Found a couple paint mark details to share: Tail shaft area, right beside the casting ID info. Looks to be a 2" or so brush of white the showed up after cleaning some tail end grease away: Next to the speedo gear hole - what looks to be a faded orange? paint dribble: Kevin... Seeing your transmission, I was reminded of one that I had rebuilt about 10 years ago, I remembered that mine had orange and white paints swatches on it too. Mine were on the pass side of the trans. (see pic) The tail shaft housing has 6-30-68 date cast into it, so it was likely for a 1969 model year car. It is a BW T-10 V close ratio (2.23 1st gear) Rich C. |
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