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Disc brake conversion |
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White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4867 |
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To measure front to rear bias, use a torque wrench, adjust the bias so that the rears require about 5 lbs/ft less torque than the fronts to rotate them when the pedal is depressed to a point that still allows the rotors to be turned. Use a wooden dowel or stick (that's cut to the correct length) between the steering column and the pedal to get the correct pedal travel and rotor rotation resistance. This is an old road racers trick I've used for decades and it has never failed me. You can use farna's method of testing, although I have stopped doing that too because this method works so well.
It's pretty important to bench bleed the master cylinder. What everyone forgets is that the master needs to be absolutely level front to back while bench bleeding to ensure all the air inside the bore can be vented out. Read the directions, it states this. I have recently started using the suction method of brake bleeding. I use a large plastic syringe with a clear vinyl hose on it to connect to the bleeders. The syringe was purchased for correctly mixing small amounts of 2 cycle oil and gas for my chainsaw. I place a round or a couple rounds of teflon tape on the bleeder threads to seal them. If you try to bypass this step it will always appear to blow air bubbles into the clear vinyl hose as the fluid passing along side the threads sucks in air from around the threads.. I open the furthest from the master cylinder bleeder first and draw brake fluid out until no air bubbles appear. Then each bleeder respectively getting closer to the master cylinder until all have been bled. Do this repeatedly until no air bubbles show up in the clear vinyl hose. Make sure you check the master cylinder fluid level all the time. Letting it deplete too far will re-introduce air into the master cylinder bore and you will end up removing the master and bench bleeding it again. Edited by White70JavelinSST - Dec/12/2016 at 9:13am |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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I too use a suction (vacuum)method of bleeding brakes. I have a small vacuum pump and a separation tank made from a coffee can and some copper tubing to separate the vacuum and brake fluid and plenty of vacuum line to set the apparatus next to me while standing at the master cylinder.
I hook the vacuum line to the brake bleeder with a few inches of vacuum applied and it will suck the brake fluid through the system from the master cylinder. I can watch for bubbles indicating a problem if any traveling through the clear plastic tubing and pour brake fluid in the master cylinder as it is drawn through into the waste container. The down side if any, it uses a lot of fluid, but you get to "flush" the lines so I guess it is positive. The up-side, bleeding brakes and looking for problems is a one man job. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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WARBED
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/12/2011 Location: Edinburg TX Status: Offline Points: 1688 |
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Since your not leaking any fluid and also not loosing any, like if it was filling the booster or seeping under the carpet and after a good bleeding then the concern is the master cylinder. Vacuum method works great but if you don't have a vacuum pump then engine vacuum works great as long as you have a catch can like uncljohn stated.
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59 American 2dr S/W. 70 390 AMX. 70 232 javelin. Kelvinator fridge ice cold beer storage.
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elmusso
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/20/2017 Location: fresno Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Hi,
New to this forum and new to being a 1960 Rambler 6 (i believe) owner. Looking for any tips or tricks I should know about while working on my car. |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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The most important and cost effective is purchase a TSM (technical service manual) for your car. The 2nd most important, is once purchased follow the directions. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692 |
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Yes, do get a TSM! AMc called their factory service manuals "Technical Service Manual" (TSM).
The only thing you need to do prior to that is re-torque the head bolts if you don't know when it was done last. The head bolts will work loose enough after about 20K miles that it can blow the head gasket, or at least leak enough to run the engine hot. Running hot is the first sign, and it may be too late by then. It's likely happened several times in a 50+ year old cars life, and the head is prone to cracking because of that and age. No special sequence needed -- just loosen one at a time and tighten down to 62 ft/lbs before doing the next one. You only follow a special sequence if you loosen all first then start tightening down. The owners manual and TSM say check the head bolts every 4000 and tighten every 8000 IIRC, but I drove one daily for 14 years and tightened every other year, which was every 12-15K miles, with no issues. The valve lifters are solid and need to be adjusted about every 10K or so also -- I adjusted every year, re-torqued every other year. If I couldn't remember if I'd re-torqued the year before I'd re-torque... so it got it every year at least a couple times. Good heads are hard to find now, so re-torque it and keep notes!!! Even if it's a trailer/garage queen I'd re-torque that head every three years regardless of miles. Weather temps don't have as much effect as engine temps in backing the head bolts out, but does some. And easy to forget if you don't have a schedule and keep notes. |
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Frank Swygert
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