Disc brake conversion

Remove the brake drums from the hubs you have now, or get hubs from Scarebird. They take an old disc rotor and turn the worn out rotor off the hub.

To remove the residual pressure valve get a sheet metal screw that will turn into the small hole in the center of the brake line outlet of the MC. Just needs to make 2-3 turns. Pull the screw with pliers -- the bronze seat will pull out. A spring and black plasti/rubber piece will come out from behind the seat. Then reinsert the seat.

You can use Willwood calipers and rotors. Or get the Ranger rotors drilled and slotted. You might be bale to find them that way already. The calipers are standard GM. I would think Willwood has one that will fit the GM mounting positions, but I don't know for sure. All you would be using from Scarebird is the hub and caliper bracket. Well, that's all they provide anyway (and some small hardware pieces like a seal adapter).

The Scarebird "big" brake kit will work with steel 15" wheels, I don't know about alloys. They vary in thickness.

Gizmo456 wrote: Will their "large" brake kit fit on my 1974 Gremlin? I have 15" rims. Do you also think it would be possible to fit different calipers and rotors to this kit? I would really like to put a set of slotted and drilled rotors as well as a Willwood caliper...

Simple way is to just order a Wilwood brake kit:
Wilwood front kits

... but the stock KH discs with 11" x 1" wide rotors actually give more braking torque, with a pad upgrade, and expect as much if not more heat capacity than the 12.19" x 0.81" Wilwood kits ... but the Wilwoods look nice, save some weight, have more pad compound options and are likely to be available for many years.

cheynemitt wrote: i installed the scarebird kit on my 1967 American. I cant get any brake pedal whatsoever. is it a must to put a adjustable bias valve in the rear line? if so, where do I get it and how do I install it

You don't have to have the bias valve in the rear line. If the rears don't easily lock before the fronts on a gravel or wet (not standing water, but well wet) road/parking lot from about 40-45 mph in a panic stop you're fine. Do check it before lots of driving though. If it brakes straight even if the wheels lock up (four wheels locking is fine... will slide straight) from about 40-45 mph then a really hard stop, you're fine without a bias valve. If the rear end wants to come around without input from the steering wheel you need a bias valve. Dial pressure down until it brakes straight on a slippery surface.

As noted, the brake change won't make the pedal hit the floor. Probably just air in lines. You can fill the MC then open all four bleeders, and leave it sitting over night. That's called "gravity bleeding". I'd check after a couple hours and make sure the MC is still full though. If it's half full after 2-4 hours you should be okay. Then fill and bleed as normal. Gravity bleeding will get most air out, but not all.