AZ road racer project

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Adam,I ordered the DD502 QA1 coilover shocks for the front end along with the bearing kit and stud mount conversion.  The length seems to work best if you use the stock type T-bar connector to the upper control arm, but the poly bushing is .750 so you'll either need to open up the bushing or mill the stock ones down (I think they are .875) and then have some type of lock ring grove cut in them or some other way to keep the shock from sliding around.
For springs, I ordered the QA1 GM type 550lb springs that are 10" in length and open up to 3.5" on top to fit in the stock seat.  
Just a big FYI-  I haven't had a chance to get the car on the ground to make sure this setup will work.  The QA1 coilovers are not threaded all the way up the body, so I may have issues getting the adjustment I need to get the body up, but I took a bunch of measurements along the way so it should work.  If nothing else, a custom spun spring may be needed to get ride height and stiffness where I want.  Just wanted to make sure you knew where I was with that part of the project and some remaining questions I haven't had a chance to answer yet.

EDIT #1
I ended up pulling the 10" GM type springs and went with the 8" Mustang II style coilover springs.  The 10" ones were just too tall for a road racer.  They might work with some looking for a lighter rate spring (450 lbs) and looking for an original ride height.

EDIT #2
See on page 11-12.
I ended up going with a set of 3/4" thick drop spindles.  My buddy Dave had a pair that were way too thick for his Spirit setup and was getting rubbing so I got some 3/8" thick ones and swapped him.  The 3/4" is probably overkill but hey, he already had them.  I have 1/2" too which would probably be very good for this type of setup and gaining some suspension movement.  Got these from bcsideshow on the forum.  Very nice quality and a Kudos for working with the guy.
The plates drop the front about 1.75" by raising the spindle/hub and brake caliper bracket for those who don't know what they are.  It ended up requiring raising the coilover over about 3/4" which is pushing the 8" springs to the limits of adjustment on the QA1 shocks.  May need to go to 10" springs for more height if needed/desired.  8" spring get you LOW!!!  but in a good way for a track car.  I noted that Donohue/Penske raised the hub about 3/4" on the trans-am cars based on the book Unfair Advantage so this mod is probably a decent idea.

Edited by Javelin74 - Aug/10/2015 at 12:03pm

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Javelin74 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: May/18/2010 Location: Scottsdale Status: Offline Points: 398	Post Options Post Reply Quote Javelin74 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/11/2012 at 4:23pm
	Adam, I ordered the DD502 QA1 coilover shocks for the front end along with the bearing kit and stud mount conversion. The length seems to work best if you use the stock type T-bar connector to the upper control arm, but the poly bushing is .750 so you'll either need to open up the bushing or mill the stock ones down (I think they are .875) and then have some type of lock ring grove cut in them or some other way to keep the shock from sliding around. For springs, I ordered the QA1 GM type 550lb springs that are 10" in length and open up to 3.5" on top to fit in the stock seat. Just a big FYI- I haven't had a chance to get the car on the ground to make sure this setup will work. The QA1 coilovers are not threaded all the way up the body, so I may have issues getting the adjustment I need to get the body up, but I took a bunch of measurements along the way so it should work. If nothing else, a custom spun spring may be needed to get ride height and stiffness where I want. Just wanted to make sure you knew where I was with that part of the project and some remaining questions I haven't had a chance to answer yet. EDIT #1 I ended up pulling the 10" GM type springs and went with the 8" Mustang II style coilover springs. The 10" ones were just too tall for a road racer. They might work with some looking for a lighter rate spring (450 lbs) and looking for an original ride height. EDIT #2 See on page 11-12. I ended up going with a set of 3/4" thick drop spindles. My buddy Dave had a pair that were way too thick for his Spirit setup and was getting rubbing so I got some 3/8" thick ones and swapped him. The 3/4" is probably overkill but hey, he already had them. I have 1/2" too which would probably be very good for this type of setup and gaining some suspension movement. Got these from bcsideshow on the forum. Very nice quality and a Kudos for working with the guy. The plates drop the front about 1.75" by raising the spindle/hub and brake caliper bracket for those who don't know what they are. It ended up requiring raising the coilover over about 3/4" which is pushing the 8" springs to the limits of adjustment on the QA1 shocks. May need to go to 10" springs for more height if needed/desired. 8" spring get you LOW!!! but in a good way for a track car. I noted that Donohue/Penske raised the hub about 3/4" on the trans-am cars based on the book Unfair Advantage so this mod is probably a decent idea. Edited by Javelin74 - Aug/10/2015 at 12:03pm

garsod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/08/2008 Location: Centennial, CO Status: Offline Points: 339	Post Options Post Reply Quote garsod Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/15/2012 at 8:02pm
	Sure looks good Dan!!!!

Javelin74 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: May/18/2010 Location: Scottsdale Status: Offline Points: 398	Post Options Post Reply Quote Javelin74 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/21/2012 at 9:19pm
	Spent the weekend cleaning up some more odds and ends for prepping the engine compartment and remembered I wanted to make a bracket for a shock tower brace so I spent most of today getting that part of the project done. Good thing my welding skills are getting better...not! Shot a couple of holes through the sheetmetal on the driver side and my beads still look like something coming out of a sick kids nose, but it should do the job and look decent after I spent some time cleaning it up for paint.

Javelin74 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: May/18/2010 Location: Scottsdale Status: Offline Points: 398	Post Options Post Reply Quote Javelin74 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/24/2012 at 10:06am
	Got my new, custom built spindles using an Impala style snout back from Tim at AZ Custom Machine. More great work from Tim! Thanks again to Adam and Scott for the tips on how to get this done. Here's a pic of the Coleman hub I'll be running on that spindle, also.

garsod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/08/2008 Location: Centennial, CO Status: Offline Points: 339	Post Options Post Reply Quote garsod Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/24/2012 at 11:22pm
	Looks Beefy!!!!!! When is the kit coming to market?

Ant Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Lapeer, MI Status: Offline Points: 1145	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ant Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/26/2012 at 3:47pm
	are you using gas or gasless wire? good ground and clean welding surface? hows your gun components look?
	73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag Full-time machinist

Javelin74 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: May/18/2010 Location: Scottsdale Status: Offline Points: 398	Post Options Post Reply Quote Javelin74 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/26/2012 at 3:53pm
	Ran out of gas so I'm using flux now. Been grinding the metal to get good contact between the material and at my ground. Gun parts look ok and I'm not having any feeding issues. I think 99.9% is operator error of not being smooth with my movements or not getting the puddle to move all the way to the prior weld.

Ant Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Lapeer, MI Status: Offline Points: 1145	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ant Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/26/2012 at 4:08pm
	I've been in the same boat. I will NEVER weld with flux wire again. I ended up grinding and going back all over my welds after I replaced my gun because I had problems with the welds not only looking like crap but they were weak and would break easily with a little hitting and prying. Just not the same penetration. I've ran into the problem with shooting holes and your best bet is to pause every so often so the metal doesn't get too hot that you shoot through it. If you do just slowly fill the hole up allowing time for the metal to cool as you fill up the hole.
	73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag Full-time machinist

Javelin74 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: May/18/2010 Location: Scottsdale Status: Offline Points: 398	Post Options Post Reply Quote Javelin74 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/04/2012 at 1:28am
	I finished up the strut tower braces... ...and finally got some orange sprayed in the bay. Now to start focusing on putting the suspension together up front and begin building up the 360

garsod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/08/2008 Location: Centennial, CO Status: Offline Points: 339	Post Options Post Reply Quote garsod Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/04/2012 at 4:24pm
	Looks great!!!!!! Nice progress.