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Correct gasket for Edelbrock Intake

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fmahannah View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 10:12am
I appreciate your offer but I want to pull the intake anyhow so I can do a proper check of pushrod length with the pushrod length checked and recheck the condition of the lifters, etc.

I searched for posts on intake gasket, will try a search for valley pan.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken_Parkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 11:47am
I've had one air gap that had too high a casting above the ports on one side, and this excess material bound on the cast protrusion on the head for the valve cover. This did not allow it to sit down on the valley correctly, and there was an internal leak at the intake ports. It acted a little weird, but the real problem was it would suck oil especially after closing the throttle from high load. Machined the top of each side a little and everything was fine.
 
As for the baffle the air gap is a completely different shape and a stock style baffle cannot be used. To prevent pcv problems you should use the stock valley pan gasket. This combo is clearly not as good as the factory design for oil separation, but it seems to work. I've found the best is the factory system of both the valley pan gasket and the factory intake baffle, but as long as you have either of these things you seem to be OK. But if you have neither be prepared for a smoke show.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 11:56am
The manifold came with the small baffle for under the PCV valve. Mine is down in the valley correctly but I mistakenly used Black Ultra RTV around the intake ports and I am pretty sure that gasoline has washed it away and now sucking oil pretty bad.

This time will try the gas proof spray copper on intakes and gray ultra on water ports, with right stuff for end seals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 12:06pm
Edelbrock Air Gap with the provided baffel under the PCV, clean all surfaces with acitone, metal valley pan gasket with gaskacinch around intake ports (both sides), grey silicone sealer around water ports (thin coat both sides) and a bead across the front and back of the intake, install and let cure for 24 hours before filling cooling system. This has always worked perfect for me.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71AMX4014SPD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 12:22pm
Do you also coat the intake bolt threads with a sealer? I've seen some seep oil up past the bolt heads. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 12:25pm
Yes I do use sealer on the bolt threads.Will check them for oil when I pull the intake.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 12:27pm
Originally posted by Ken_Parkman Ken_Parkman wrote:

I've had one air gap that had too high a casting above the ports on one side, and this excess material bound on the cast protrusion on the head for the valve cover. This did not allow it to sit down on the valley correctly, and there was an internal leak at the intake ports. It acted a little weird, but the real problem was it would suck oil especially after closing the throttle from high load. Machined the top of each side a little and everything was fine.


The first time I installed the manifold it sealed fine, and I beat the heck out of the engine while testing the new carb. Just something I must have screwed up this time when I put it on after the cam swap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 2:33pm
Originally posted by 71AMX4014SPD 71AMX4014SPD wrote:

Do you also coat the intake bolt threads with a sealer? I've seen some seep oil up past the bolt heads. 
 
Good point! Yes I do. I knew I was forgetting something while I was typing. And flat washers help get a more consistant torque on the bolts too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 2:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irish13jeff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2011 at 7:25pm
Love the Mr. Gasket Ultra seals. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-5844 On aluminum intakes dont use the rubber seals that sometimes come with it. Instead apply a 1/4 bead of black permetex down the front and rear of block face where the intake will rest on it . Allow 15 min to pass for permetex to set up before setting the intake down on it . Also invest in some new intake bolts at your local parts store. Mr. gasket intake bolt kit for a Chevy will work, and makes it nice when getting things lined up.

Edited by irish13jeff - Aug/15/2011 at 7:27pm
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