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Correct gasket for Edelbrock Intake

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fmahannah View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Correct gasket for Edelbrock Intake
    Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 5:55pm
I was reviewing the instructions that came with my #7531 edelbrock manifold, and remembered an issue I had when I initially tried to install it.

The instructions state:

NOTE: YOU MUST USE a factory metal valley tray gasket along with the Edelbrock gaskets listed below. If your stock valley tray is in good condition, it may be re-used.

7530, 7531 (None) Edelbrock #7213; Port: 1.13” x 2.21”, .030” Thickness

Then in the instructions they say:

Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to both cylinder head flanges and to the cylinder head side of the gaskets, allow to air dry, and attach the intake gaskets to the cylinder head, then place the factory metal valley tray into position.

All of this led me to think that I had to install BOTH the side gaskets #7213 AND a valley pan gasket. When I tried to do this, not matter how hard I tried the intake would not settle down far enough into the valley for me to line up the bolt holes!

I tried several times and after reading on forums of people just using the valley pan gasket, I removed the extra side gaskets and installed just the valley pan like the factory did. This first install did not leak.

Now that I am pretty sure I am leaking on the intake and sucking oil, do any of you know if indeed we have to use both the standard side gaskets AND the valley pan when installing an edelbrock aluminum intake? Personally I can't see how that could seal since the side gaskets are thick and the pan gasket is thin, so near the ports you would have both gaskets overlapped, and between the ports and the front and rear seal you would only have the metal pan gasket.

Want to make sure I get this right this time, so what do you use when installing an edelbrock manifold, just the valley pan or just the side gaskets or both? Of course RTV or right stuff for the end seals.

Thanks
74 Javelin AKA Ghost
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken_Parkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 11:47am
I've had one air gap that had too high a casting above the ports on one side, and this excess material bound on the cast protrusion on the head for the valve cover. This did not allow it to sit down on the valley correctly, and there was an internal leak at the intake ports. It acted a little weird, but the real problem was it would suck oil especially after closing the throttle from high load. Machined the top of each side a little and everything was fine.
 
As for the baffle the air gap is a completely different shape and a stock style baffle cannot be used. To prevent pcv problems you should use the stock valley pan gasket. This combo is clearly not as good as the factory design for oil separation, but it seems to work. I've found the best is the factory system of both the valley pan gasket and the factory intake baffle, but as long as you have either of these things you seem to be OK. But if you have neither be prepared for a smoke show.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 6:02pm
Sorry i forgot that originally I had asked in here about the intake gaskets and was told to just use the valley pan gasket. Old age is definitely creeping up on me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 6:06pm
the 7531 if i remember correctly is an air gap intake and if that is true then you dont need the valley pan.  the valley pans original function was to keep the heated oil off the bottom of the original intakes.  on the 7531 the huge gap between the carb and the lower portion of the intake manifold eliminates the heat transfer to the bottom of the carb, hence no valley pan needed.  I use edelbrock gaskets on both left and right sides of the intake and used a bead of RTV on the ends instead of the rubber seals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 6:50pm
Originally posted by mstrcrftr mstrcrftr wrote:

the 7531 if i remember correctly is an air gap intake and if that is true then you dont need the valley pan.  the valley pans original function was to keep the heated oil off the bottom of the original intakes.  on the 7531 the huge gap between the carb and the lower portion of the intake manifold eliminates the heat transfer to the bottom of the carb, hence no valley pan needed.  I use edelbrock gaskets on both left and right sides of the intake and used a bead of RTV on the ends instead of the rubber seals.
The pan gasket does 2 things. 1 as you  said to keep hot oil odd the bottom of the intake and 2 act as a barrier to the oil from the PCV. Run a stock intake with out a pan gasket and see what happens. You should also run the baffle that bolts to the bottom of the intake too I just dont think the air gap will let you?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Midnight Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 7:10pm
Just the valley pan, it has the "side gasket" built into it.  I also re-used my intake baffle, but as Fuzz said I don't think the Air-Gap allows it.  It does let you put some sort of baffle (maybe they provide?) under the PCV - do that.

As for the intake leak, I have an Offy 360 which I bought a Fel-Pro valley pan for.  It just didn't want to play nice so I got a Victor Reinz and it fit like a glove.  Maybe the Fel-Pro I got was an odd bad one, I don't know.  I've had luck with their stuff and I know a lot of guys here swear by them, but if I used the one I had I was pressing my luck.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gd5052 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 7:31pm
Aren't the early baffles thinner than later years ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/11/2011 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by Midnight Rambler Midnight Rambler wrote:

As for the intake leak, I have an Offy 360 which I bought a Fel-Pro valley pan for.  It just didn't want to play nice so I got a Victor Reinz and it fit like a glove.  Maybe the Fel-Pro I got was an odd bad one, I don't know.  I've had luck with their stuff and I know a lot of guys here swear by them, but if I used the one I had I was pressing my luck.
My Offy 360 fit good with the Fel-Pro pan gasket on my street Javelin. I also use F-P on a torker both times on the drag motor.
 
Originally posted by gd5052 gd5052 wrote:

Aren't the early baffles thinner than later years ?
I have not heard of this before.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 6:49am
Do a search - there was a multi-page, really intense in-depth discussion on this exact same topic a few months back with a whole slew of answers and a bunch of great info and opinions.
Please search first.
Every answer posted in this thread so far is already here in other threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 8:58am
The manifold did come with a baffle for the PCV. They say you must use the valley pan but the instructions make you think you have to use both types of gaskets. I will just go with the valley pan again and this time not use the ultra black which I think is what is leaking. Will go with copper spray and gray around the water ports.

Thanks guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2011 at 10:00am
I hate to be the nay sayer again, but please don't pull the manifold without doing the necessary checks for leaks first.  Don't get pulled into the parts changer attitude and guess.  If a pressure check of the cooling system passed then your manifold is not leaking water.  You may still have a vacume leak sucking oil and that could indeed be because you used silicone for a sealent where it is contra indicated.  I.E.  not where it will be touched by fuel vapors.  I use Gel Seal for the ports but there are other non-hardenning products that will work as well.  In the earlier thread that you will find in a search, I posted a pic of how to trim the Valley pan so that it can be used with the fiber side gaskets.  This is what should be done to prevent the uptake of oil into the P.C.V. system and the valley pan also aids in cam oiling and return of oil to the lower eng.  There are many good reasons to use both and few reasons not to.  The basic premis is to trim the old valley pan so that the bolt holes and a small tab at each end hold the pan and the ports are left bare fiber gasket for sealing.  You put the fiber gaskets on first and then tack the valley pan in place.  With the ports and ridges around them cut out there is very little space taken up by the sheet metal.  The sheet metal pulls down into the fiber and does not add thickness.  Do not use end seals.  Use a small bead of the Right Stuff or the like.  My offer still stands if you would like to borrow my pressure test adapter for the manifold before you pull it.
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