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'66 Ambassador no spark again

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PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2011 at 10:34am
Ignitor I & II use flying magnet, ring mounted under rotor, should shim dizzy for limited endplay.
Ignitor III is a prox switch tripped by dizzy shaft cam lobes, like Crane XRi,
checking / shimming dizzy not necessary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2011 at 6:09pm
Great information guys!  I found the NSS under the dash easy access and should be able to get it all checked out by this weekend. And I see NSSws are availabe if I need a new one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 9:18am
Easy test: connect the two wires together, bypassing the NSW. Remember, the brown wires are the back-up lights! Connect the other tow together. 
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 5:51pm
Closure!  Fau;ty Neutral safety switch as I pulled the two green wires from the switch terminals, hooked them together with the ignition-to-coil wires back on and the car started and ran. 
Thanks for all the help. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 6:01pm
Originally posted by Trog Trog wrote:

Closure!  Fau;ty Neutral safety switch as I pulled the two green wires from the switch terminals, hooked them together with the ignition-to-coil wires back on and the car started and ran. 
Thanks for all the help. 
It now runs after you did that?   I know it will keep it from cranking, but keep it from running?  theres something missing here...................
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 6:19pm
The NSW is wired on those cars to prevent starting and running -- it interrupts power to the coil (switch-NSW-coil). When he bypassed the NSW with a hot wire directly to the coil it would start and run (that's what made me suggest the NSW). Maybe later models are wired differently? I know some in the mid to late 70s have an extra post on the solenoid that has to be grounded for the engine to start, and I think the NSW supplies the ground.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 6:34pm
Thats why I asked about the third post on the back of the solenoid.  I had one of those give me fits.  I didn't know it went to the NSW though.  Ya learn something every day.Big smile
Steve Brown

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69 Ambassador sst 390

84 Grand Wagoneer

69 Cougar XR7

65 Fairlaine 500XL

79 F-350 Super Camper Special



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 6:36pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

The NSW is wired on those cars to prevent starting and running -- it interrupts power to the coil (switch-NSW-coil). When he bypassed the NSW with a hot wire directly to the coil it would start and run (that's what made me suggest the NSW). Maybe later models are wired differently? I know some in the mid to late 70s have an extra post on the solenoid that has to be grounded for the engine to start, and I think the NSW supplies the ground.
Alright,  I guess Ive been around too many stick shift cars.......I know Fords would run if the NSS was bad......and most of the automatic cars Ive owned was GM, and I never had any problems with any of them, and when I worked in the transmission shop, it was usually Fords that had the NSS problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 7:13pm
Since this is a temporary hookup, I did not drive the car but just let it idle for a few monents. On a couple older cars from the 50s, the switch is totally bypassed and the only effect is it will start in drive or reverse as well.....no effect on running or driving.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/12/2011 at 7:54pm
The whole purpose of the NSS is to prevent the car from starting unless in park or neutral. Older stick shift cars don't have one, just a back-up light switch. It wasn't until the later 70s that there were some cars equipped with clutch switches.

Well, some older cars had such safety features before they were mandated by the government though. The push-button shift Ramblers, for instance. You turned the key switch to "run" but there was no start position. The Neutral button had to be pushed to start the car, so it could only be started in neutral. Park was via a separate lever under the dash with a cable to a separate arm on the trans. The car could be started in park, and one could start to drive off while it was still in park too! A few broken parking pawls...
Frank Swygert
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