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'66 Ambassador no spark again |
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poormansMACHINE 
AMC Addicted 
Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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 Posted: Jun/30/2011 at 5:49pm |
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So you had 12 volts at the points while you cranked and didn't see a spark?
You shouldn't. |
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Trog
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Joined: Nov/08/2007 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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Posted: Jun/30/2011 at 7:25pm |
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Right, with cap off and cranking the engine, I measured a constant battery voltage at the points/condensor terminal. Then held the coil cable ~ 1/4" from bare metal and only got the initial orange spark. Then immediately measured at the points terminal and it was still 12V.
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poormansMACHINE
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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Posted: Jun/30/2011 at 7:32pm |
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Open/intermittent circuit between points and ground.
That's why I said just replace all the wires with fresh store boughts and take them out of the equation. Thge only thing simpler to fix than a points problem is a striker. |
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Trog
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Posted: Jul/02/2011 at 10:03am |
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Old wire removed and getting replacement tomorrow afternoon and then there will be all new components. But what about the neutral safety switch in the equation?
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Jul/02/2011 at 2:56pm |
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If the starter turns what's wrong with the switch?
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Trog
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Posted: Jul/03/2011 at 7:49pm |
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Had two problems, one yet to be solved.
1. Indeed the coil to points primary wire was faulty as with the new one I made up installed we got spark. So we buttoned it all up and got the car started for an instant, but then it would not keep running and we again los spark.
2. The terminal in the distributor for the points and condensor is retained by a copper spring but this spring is too weak to keep the terminals retained and thus they come off. Will replace this set of points with one that has a screw for tightening down and retaining the terminals. I saw the terminl jump off while cranking w/o the cap on.
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69 ambassador 390
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Joined: Nov/22/2009 Location: Peoria, AZ Status: Offline Points: 3539 |
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Posted: Jul/03/2011 at 9:26pm |
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Buy good parts. Stay away from the zone and others like it and hit a speed shop. The Accel and Mallory points are usually pretty good and try to stay away from Uni Points cause they force you to replace and adjust the whole thing when the Chineese condensor craps out. Also check the third or bypass wire on the solenoid if you have it. If there is a problem there it will spark at cranking but stop after you let off the key. Just jump a hot wire from the Batt. to the + side if the coil and it should stay running. If it does then forget about the distributor area or coil and look at the start bypass or ballast.
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Steve Brown
Algonac, Mi. 69 Ambassador sst 390 84 Grand Wagoneer 69 Cougar XR7 65 Fairlaine 500XL 79 F-350 Super Camper Special |
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Trog
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Posted: Jul/03/2011 at 10:01pm |
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Yeah, online one of the national parts suppliers says "made in USA" but when I checked the boxes for thos every items across the counter, everyone of them said "made in China." On eof the other national parts dealer's are made in Mexico. Uni-points - is that the points/condensor combo? I have a set of those but haven't used them. Thanks for the tip about the third wire. My wife thought she detected "something" with the ignition switch when she was cranking the car over while I was under the hood.
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Jul/03/2011 at 10:31pm |
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Yes, the uni point is the combo.
Cross one bridge at a time. Swap the points and try it as it was intended with the key. |
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Jul/03/2011 at 11:08pm |
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This mfr always had good parts. Look up the numbers and search them out.
http://www.wellsve.com/ecatalog.html |
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