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'66 Ambassador no spark again

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FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2011 at 8:15pm
Originally posted by Trog Trog wrote:

OK, guess that's the first thing I'll try, a new condensor.  The worst part about this whole thing is that rear distributor cap screw jammed in up against the firewall that is barely accessible. I can usually get it loose but then getting it tightened back on is a real effort.  I guess they are Delco intended for GM perhaps and adapted to AMC, but if the screws had been rotated 90 degrees it would make it so much easier.  May be a few days before I can get to this.  Thanks
This can be fixed to get the cap on/off. Turn the dist. like you are adjusting the timing, to a point where you can get to the screw and move all the plug wires around to line up to the new locations. You will need to throw a timing light on it after you get it running.
 
Also the rotor tip does NOT touch the posts in the cap. If so the tip of the rotor would break off. It should have a gap between rotor tip & cap post that the spark has to jump across, this adds to the resistance of the system the spark has to travell. Add to that bad wires & plugs with a large gaps and you can have issues. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2011 at 10:09pm
Alright, the original thread.  Checked plugs and they were not foulded but cleaned anyway.  Thanks for the link to the original thread as it will help me know what all I did previously.   
 
Understand about the rotor blade not touching the cap....it's just the rotor end contact point on the first new rotor we tried was indeed rececssed in visibly more than the original or the second one we acquired and we felt that gap was apparently too bog since until now that second CQ rotor has been working.


Edited by Trog - Jun/14/2011 at 10:15pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2011 at 6:17pm
About to a dead end on this one what I can do.  Changed out coil even though original one had 12V each side.  Changed out rotor and condensor to new ones. Changed out coil to distributor cable.  Still have just that instantaneous weak spark on the first ignition try but then nothing after that. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2011 at 6:58pm
Seeing 12 volts on the distributor side of the coil tells me the points are open
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2011 at 7:32pm
I checked while cranking with cap off and the points were opening and closing ok.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2011 at 7:44pm
Did you ever change out the pigtail between the points and coil?
The ground wire to the breaker plate?


Edited by poormansMACHINE - Jun/26/2011 at 7:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2011 at 10:11pm
I'll need to look at that. Believe that was done in '09 when we had the trouble then.  But need to look agaon. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/27/2011 at 9:19am
If it's a condensor/points problem the Ignitor will solve that. You want an Ignitor II. The original Ignitor will work fine, the II senses and adjusts dwell. The III has multi-spark technology (similar to an MSD box) and a built-in user settable rev limiter. You can use the III, but it's just over $140. II is $125-130, original is around $100. Not really a lot of difference in the prices considering what you get. The III is a good street/strip unit with the rev limiter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/27/2011 at 11:34am
Originally posted by poormansMACHINE poormansMACHINE wrote:

Did you ever change out the pigtail between the points and coil?
The ground wire to the breaker plate?
Easy to check. Rotate the engine so the points are closed and leave the ignition on. Coil primary should be at 0V. If it's not, then there is a wire fault between the coil and distributor or points to ground. Cap does not have to be on to check this.

I have seen the wires break inside the insulator so everything looks OK, but in reality there is no connection. That was a "fun" problem to diagnose at -28C Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/27/2011 at 8:02pm
0.22V at the coil - terminal and 0.1V at the inside-the-distributor side terminal.   Ignition + side of coil reads ~ 9+ volts. Consistent reading over  3 measurements. 
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