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'66 Ambassador no spark again |
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
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Also the rotor tip does NOT touch the posts in the cap. If so the tip of the rotor would break off. It should have a gap between rotor tip & cap post that the spark has to jump across, this adds to the resistance of the system the spark has to travell. Add to that bad wires & plugs with a large gaps and you can have issues.
Dave ----
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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Trog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/08/2007 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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Alright, the original thread. Checked plugs and they were not foulded but cleaned anyway. Thanks for the link to the original thread as it will help me know what all I did previously.
Understand about the rotor blade not touching the cap....it's just the rotor end contact point on the first new rotor we tried was indeed rececssed in visibly more than the original or the second one we acquired and we felt that gap was apparently too bog since until now that second CQ rotor has been working. Edited by Trog - Jun/14/2011 at 10:15pm |
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Trog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/08/2007 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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About to a dead end on this one what I can do. Changed out coil even though original one had 12V each side. Changed out rotor and condensor to new ones. Changed out coil to distributor cable. Still have just that instantaneous weak spark on the first ignition try but then nothing after that.
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poormansMACHINE
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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Seeing 12 volts on the distributor side of the coil tells me the points are open
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Trog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/08/2007 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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I checked while cranking with cap off and the points were opening and closing ok.
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poormansMACHINE
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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Did you ever change out the pigtail between the points and coil?
The ground wire to the breaker plate? Edited by poormansMACHINE - Jun/26/2011 at 7:45pm |
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Trog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/08/2007 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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I'll need to look at that. Believe that was done in '09 when we had the trouble then. But need to look agaon.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692 |
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If it's a condensor/points problem the Ignitor will solve that. You want an Ignitor II. The original Ignitor will work fine, the II senses and adjusts dwell. The III has multi-spark technology (similar to an MSD box) and a built-in user settable rev limiter. You can use the III, but it's just over $140. II is $125-130, original is around $100. Not really a lot of difference in the prices considering what you get. The III is a good street/strip unit with the rev limiter.
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Frank Swygert
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6686 |
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I have seen the wires break inside the insulator so everything looks OK, but in reality there is no connection. That was a "fun" problem to diagnose at -28C |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Trog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/08/2007 Status: Offline Points: 156 |
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0.22V at the coil - terminal and 0.1V at the inside-the-distributor side terminal. Ignition + side of coil reads ~ 9+ volts. Consistent reading over 3 measurements.
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