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Another '79 DJ-5G Thread..

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THeGAME View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/11/2011 at 7:39pm
Hello AMC'ers!

Last weekend I bought a '79 Jeep DJ-5G and Im now on the hunt!
AMC (Audi) 121 cu in (2.0 L) straight-4, 904 TorqueFlite automatic

Looking for advice (besides get a real jeep, lol), parts, and anything you can tell me to get this thing running tip top.

I'll get some better photos up when the sun comes out, which could be a while here in WA, lol.

First off, it is running fairly strong. Drove it home over 65mi (2.5hrs) on the back roads after I bought it with no problems. The former owner did some tinkering with it so I have no idea what is original and what isnt. Im keeping my eye out for new or refab parts, but by no means am I attempting to totally restore. Just looking to get it to be a fun daily driver.

I have a few things that need attention now.

1. Hard Start, but lights up in a second when hot
Fuel Pump or Choke problem? Starts better when pumping the gas as opposed to flooring it.
Spark plugs were wet.

2. Cracked Exhaust Manifold.
Eventually going to get a fabricated manifold. But current plans are to seal it with high temp boiler/furnace (2000deg) cement after a thorough wire brush scrubbing.

3. Gooey Radiator.
I dont believe I have a cracked block or head gasket problem. This rad has a built in trans cooler that I think is cracked. Planning on getting a after market trans cooler and sealing off the plugs on the rad and getting it cleaned. Does not over heat.

4. A loud thump when shifting into reverse when warm.
Works fine other than that. No slippage.

These are my biggest concerns. 
Lots to be done all the same, but nothing that keeps it from running.

I have the repair manual, and Stewart @ roadmonster.org is providing a list of alternative parts. Apparently, the '79 AMC Spirit is a close match. The engine was used in quite a few AMC's, VW's, and the Porsche 924. But will they work with this lil beast? Time will tell I guess. The transmission is a one year fab, specifically designed for this engine.

Ive currently replaced the rear tires (205/75 15) which are the closest you can get without special order. Also, Plugs, wires and air filter using the 79 Spirit for reference. I have a PCV valve that may or may not work. Ill let you know.

Thanks for reading.
I hope to document all I can to help out others getting into one of these fun lil Jeeps.

Peace, Love -n-Led Zeppelin!

(P.S. Thinking of going with the "Zombie Outbreak Response Vehicle" theme, so any advice for stickers, cricket bats and shotguns a plus!)


















Edited by THeGAME - May/30/2011 at 3:09pm
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ramblinfsj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinfsj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2011 at 10:59am
Very Nice DJ. Very clean, straight, and looks to be very little rust if any. And you even have the hub caps.  
 
The hard starting sounds like it just needs a choke adjustment and possibly a tuneup. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to hit it with a timing light and see if it's at.
 
Good luck with the manifold. I don't know anything about that cement stuff.
 
The remote trans cooler is a good idea if you can find some where to mount it. If you get a cooler mounted up, go ahead and give the radiator a good flushing.
 
The thump when going into reverse could just be a u-joint.
 
 
1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THeGAME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2011 at 9:38pm
Lol..
Well, not so clean, and not so straight, and its got rust. Methinks it was the cloudy day and the rain that makes it look so good..

Wink


To temporary fix the manifold, instead of using the boiler/furnace sealer, I bought some VersaChem Inferno Metal Repair at AutoZone for 'round $6. Used it mostly as directed, and it seems to be holding. I didnt get before pics because it was raining again, but you can tell by the bulge it was bad. Pretty much dont care how it looks as long as Im not smoking a pack of cigs every two min..

I say the crack was about 3in long and maybe 1/8th inch wide. Goes without saying its much quieter and Im not breathing nearly as much fumes. The manifold gaskets and the pipe seal are bad as well. But I can live with that for now. While Im not quite ready to go all gooshy on the Inferno Metal Repair yet due to time, it seems to be doing what it advertised almost a week later, and I still have 3/4 of it left. Time will tell if the advertised "permanent" holds out I guess. As a quick, few day fix to avoid the fumes to get it in the shop, Ill give it a thumbs up. Cant beat $6.

That being done, my buddy ran a timing gun on it and we got it running a little better. Im confident I can drive it the 2mi round trip to work at least.

Skipping to the U joints, we were eye-balling them the other day and noticed how far the caps were sticking out.






The shaft has zero play. Its got internal clips, so dont freak out, lol. Ill have to guess that I dont have the proper parts here and thats causing the thump..

Im trying to keep a running tally of projected expenses, and a conversion is starting to look a lot better. Postal Jeep net has a kit to slap in a AMC 232 6, and a Chrysler A727 tranny. Its supposed to be a plug n play set up with everything for round $1,800 with shipping. Another option is to put something like an '88 Chev S-10 engine and tranny in it. Not going for a hotrod here.

Regardless, next purchase is going to be a tach to help fine tune what Ive got.

Later!




Edited by THeGAME - May/18/2011 at 9:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THeGAME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2011 at 7:20pm
What a PITA!

Looking for parts for this thing is a pain, and then its 50/50 if they will work with the '79 Spirit parts.
So far, had good results with the plugs, wires, air filter and points. The PCV may work, but the one in there is much larger and the hose is too stretched to hold the newer, streamline one made for the Spirit.

Seems the previous owner didnt like the electronic choke and pulled out the butterfly. Explains the hard start, lol. Looking for those specific parts to rig a temp fix for about two months. Looks like Im going with the 232/a727 conversion kits to turn this into a DJ-5F, so Im not in the market for a whole new carb. Would like to put a 4cyl/tranny combo thats a bit newer for price and availability for parts though. A $50 part for the 232 would be around $10 for the S-10.

Current mission is to keep it running for two months untill I can get the conversion kit, or something similar. Timed it up real good today. Still has major problems in the current engine/tranny config, but it only has to last two months as a daily driver. Im not going to spend more than $20 on anything else unless I can swap it out with the conversion. Im at the feeding it oil/tranny fluid to keep it alive phase, lol.


This weekend, I pulled off the "postal" blue/red tape, unmounted the air horn from the fender and stowed it under the hood, and removed the CB (this thing is about 5lbs, 1' x 8"x 6" and still works!), its mounting bracket, and the mini PA system and speaker the previous owner installed on the roof. Also peeled off the John Deer stickers and the mariners wheel on the pass vent cover. Added a few temp. "Zombie Outbreak Response" labels I printed, to be upgraded by vinyl before all is said and done. Also added a tach which has proved very helpful getting the engine running solid.

Touched up some rust spots and areas that the red/blue tape took the paint off.
Was funny that after searching for white primer at 4 different auto parts store I found it at the grocery store. Almost went ahead and got black primer, but I didnt want the dairy cow look. Im not doing heavy body and paint work now because eventually Im going to strip this thing down to metal, prime it black, and cover it in glossy rhino liner-ish coat, inside and out. Should reduce some noise and solidify the whole body a bit, not to mention look extremely cool! For now, just doing some sand and cover.

The major rusted parts, and there are few, will be replaced by fiberglass if its feasible. I'd like to have new metal welded in but my wrencher has a love affair with fiberglass...


Quick 'shop of the planned turn signal placement..

Any suggestions?

More later!




Edited by THeGAME - May/25/2011 at 9:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinfsj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2011 at 11:29am
The 232/258 swap will be a good one. It will turn it back to a DJ-5F but it's still an upgrade from the Audi engine. The parts are super cheap for the 232/258. If you do go that route and start getting parts at your local parts store, they will not list a DJ so just tell them it's for a '75 CJ-5 . I believe you will also need the short water pump from the CJ-5 as well. If you can find a good engine, tranny, and the proper radiator it will be the best swap you can make. My DJ5 is a 73 model and had a bad Borg-Warner transmission. The borg-warners are super expensive to rebuild so I was looking into possibly swapping the drivetrain out for a 2.3L Ford four cylinder and an auto from a Pinto. Great engine but I never did the swap. Its going back with a newer 258 if I can ever locate a TF 904 or 727 transmission. You're on the right track. You have a heck of a lot less work to do than I had. Keep it alive for two months and then start having fun.

Edited by ramblinfsj - May/25/2011 at 11:31am
1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THeGAME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2011 at 9:24pm
Lol.. Maybe I should just PM you Ram, lol..

You wouldnt happen to know the wheel pattern for this thing would you?

Looking to get a "wagon wheel" type wheel set for it.

Craigslist-
"Sport king AT 30x9.50R15 and they're siped for extra traction with about 3/4 tread, they are on Ford lug pattern spoked rim $300 for a set of 4."

Probably wouldnt fit though. (sigh)

I just put a pair of Primewell P205/75R15's on the back about two weeks ago as a quick and dirty because the previous owner still had studs on it (was a fun filled 65mi home when I bought it, let me tell ya) The front tires are pretty bald. But I have one decent spare of the same size.

Instead of buying two more Primewells to match up, I want to get 4 wagon wheels and match the tires on those. However, I dont know jack about rims, and the only info the owners manual gives me is:
Flange type: 5.5" K, safety rim
Size: 1/2-20
Bolt Circle: 5.5

Standard tire is a E78-15 the P205/75R15's were as close as I could get without special order.
Funny though, for the E78-15:
Inflation Pressure-
Front 18psi
Rear  24psi

Im not too worried about them being to wide to open the doors as long as it isnt too wide to make a few adjustments to the door.

BTW, you could get a A727 from postaljeep.net, which is where Im buying my conversion kit. The conversion kit includes everything from the front grill to the drive line, plug n play. Radiator, carb, starter, transmission, water/oil/fuel pumps, manifolds, hoses.. Everything. $1750 + shipping.
 





Edited by THeGAME - May/25/2011 at 9:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinfsj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2011 at 10:02am
Those wheels should bolt right on. I forget the measurement but it is the big ford truck pattern. The center hole is huge. 5x5 sounds right. Those wheels and tires would look awesome on the truck if they will fit the rear wheel well. One thing I've seen done to clear the bottom rear of the door is to cut the door to match the wheel opening and then weld in a patch panel to close up the door. 
The conversion kit sounds awesome. If you can afford it, go for it. I'm to poor. I have to scavenge locally for stuff I need but I usually get it dirt cheap that way. The time between needing a part like a transmission and actually finding one could be a super long time however.
1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220
1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401
1983 Jeep J-10
1979 Concord DL 2dr
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Well. Boo..

Took it to work saturday and I cant even guess the amount of (oil/trans fluid?) in the cooling system, or even which it is. Flushed the rad/engine over the course of 4hrs. Ran about 20gal through it to get most of it out. It took about 10gal for it to start coming out clear, but still oily and brownish.

I added some Prestone Super rad flush and will do another flush this saturday and see how much came back. I had hopes it was all old till a few streaks of black came out the last few cycles after a few high revs. Add in some streaks of white and small rust chunks and it looked like a melted mocha almond fudge sundae.

This is two days after, and believe me, its an improvement. No where near as thick.



Oil in pan is not milky and doesnt contain water bubbles, the trans fluid looks ok and Im not losing fluid except very slowly through gaskets, but Ill still have to guess a head problem as the head gasket is less than a year old, assuming they put the right one on and correctly. Still baffled on the source. Just guessing its oil due to the thick nature of the fluid that came out. 

Still planning on buying a trans cooler because Ill still be able to use it with the new set up.

Due to the simple and uncluttered nature of my engine, I may try to put a new head gasket on just pulling off the exhaust manifold, but Id like to know opinions before I spend the money and time. It just needs to last another few months before I replace it.

Ramble..
Those wheels/tires would be 3in wider (205mm/285mm) than my current tires, which I assume means 1.1/2in inside and out. My clearance for the door is right about 1.1/2in. The tires are shorter by 25mm. I was thinking of adding a larger bracket to the rear bottom slider on my doors that would kick them out about an inch. Granted, that would increase the gap on the door, but I dont think his thing will ever be air tight anyway, lol. Was planning the cut out around the wheel wells, but I dont want to do a half and half door cut. Now if I could redo the doors to be swing type..

I would love to be able to use the rims, but Im assuming the tires will fit my 15"s either way. I wanted to lower it a bit and get wider tires anyway due to the high center of gravity. So even if just the tires work with 3/4 tread for $300 all around, plus 25mm lower, its still a plus! Heck, the POS tires I just bought for the back cost me $175 and the front tires are just this side of legal.

Hope they are still available in a few weeks.




Edited by THeGAME - May/30/2011 at 4:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THeGAME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2011 at 5:50pm
Well, flushed the entire cooling system again, and it doesnt look like Ive got a major problem. Ive run about 50gal of water through the engine, and every time it cycles, I get a wee bit of foam, and cloudy water due to an est. of 6mo+ of motor oil in the water. The innards are coated, even after a week of Prestone Super clean. Might try Ajax next, lol.

The carb (Holley 5210) is proving to be a fine tune female canine. Over the last week I developed a traffic light/in gear pulse close to stall when warm. Adjusted that today as well, so the pulse doesnt come close to stalling. The RPMS are a bit higher all around, and the pulse is still there. Lots of emissions and carb parts missing. Grrrr!

Not too worried.
Either I sell it for what I put into it, or I replace the whole drive train.
Either way, having fun! 























All the Pics:
http://ourtime.us/game/jeepsale/

Later!


Edited by THeGAME - Jun/04/2011 at 6:54pm
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Well, good news -n- bad.

The bad.
First off, Im kinda writing this vehicle off. While I can fix it, the expense to do so is a bit more than I bargained for. There is alot of good in this Jeep, ruined by a bad drive train from rad to rear axle. Pretty much figure ripping it all out and replacing it. When all is said and done, Ill be selling it at a loss.

The good.
Im probably buying another one this weekend, and taking the parts I need off this one.

I test drove the new one last week and it was night and day. It had been used as a rural mail carrier until April of this year, and it already sounds and drives a whole lot better. New tranny, carb (one barrel), brake system, exhaust. and glass, all within my projected overall budget, with a lot of room left over to tweak it to my own particular idiom! Its solid, which is what I was looking for as a base, daily driver.

Ill post more pics this weekend of them side by side, and the part swap.

As far as the one I have, I dont know if its a gasket or the head, but adding pressure to the cooling system made it a heck of a lot worse. Carb is missing parts, i donno if I have a tranny or linkage problem or if the rear end is just bad. Donno how much tinkering has been done to it. But I guess someone else will gain a ice cream truck, ratrod or climber..

It'll be on craigslist in WA as soon as I get the title.

More pics this weekend!



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