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Paint guys - Roller job question

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underdog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote underdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 11:48am
Now I know what I about to say from eyes on and old school poor boys painting in the 60's.
My grade school pal had a old body shop Dad. He had a award winning Jeepster of those days. It was solid red. He primered and painted that Jeepster with one of those hand pump bug sprayers. If no one has seen one, They are a long tube that contains the push pump and a can reservor under the front. The car 25 years later still looked good. You can not spray flake colors this way and for sure not roll it on. The reason to do a car besides the correct way is funds. If this is the issue, Then spray it with any method and rolling would be a very last choice. Remember you will get roller fiber mixed in with the paint and air pocket bubbles. Consider useing a Sears electric paint gun then. This method will do more harm to the value of the car. If I looked at a car rollered or brush painted, I would not be interested or offer much less to back stroke to get to scratch. Can't you find a Ugo to paint with a roller? I bet folks would line up to help you then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote algaines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 12:31pm
Thank you people, roller sounds like it's cheap, dirty , and quick; BUT you could save money and time and effort by going down to a friends house and borrowing an air compressor and paint gun. Even painting it outside in the sun with a few bugs in the paint would be better than a roller. Paint for cars has just doubled in cost, you need to sand down the car and at least prime the areas that have exposed metal, spray it and it will be a whole lot less sanding with less work and sandpaper than roller. We aren't hillbillies, I would help you if you lived here just to help, yes my paint job would cost over $12K but I did it and it took over a year to get it done from stripping it down to pulling all the metal after removing the bondo, primering it about 12 times and re-sanding, putting on a guide coat and resanding to make sure it was flat and then painted a black basecoat. Diamont Extreme Rainbow paint is $570 a pint, ouchy, but I spent less than $5K but still I got what I wanted. Paint jobs in garages, in the driveway, I've done them all, but rollers are insane unless you want to be the laughing stock in the neighborhood. You can get the right tool and do it right or waste all of the expensive painting materials with the wrong tool. Please do it with the best that you have and not the worse. Lord Bless your decision and your efforts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 12:54pm
I have done many roll and tip jobs on boats with excellent results.  The trouble is that the proper brushes and rollers to do it correctly are more expensive than a good mid-grade paint gun.  The correct marine grade paints cost as much or more than auto paints and lastly it takes two people and much more time than a spray job.  The plus side is absolutely no overspray or waste.  The prep is just as important and the conditions and mixes have to be just as correct.  The paint will also take much longer to dry.  A good roll and tip job is really not a quick thing.  Good results tke time no matter how you do it.  Don't be lazy and have patience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70 Donohue 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 1:18pm
I may try a roller job some day. Check out this blog (not mine) from 5 years ago:
 
here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture10.jpg
the car before:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/IM000475.jpg
another after pic:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg

here's a few pics of the charger done:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC02764.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC02769.jpg

well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy bumpers, door handles it just sticks out more.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 1:27pm
How about this one http://amccars.net/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1297476215
I know there is more just cant find it at this time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeremy0711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:02pm
If someone were to use a quality paint and rolled it and buffed it out and not told you then you most likely would not know the difference if it was done right.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:12pm
being done and being done RIGHT are two totally separate things.  usually the first thing i notice about a car is the poor paint work.. the second look i take at it i will see all of the poor body work.

a lot of times what my friends do is totally prep the car, buy the paint and materials then get someone to spray it.  most independent body shops will do this for you very cheap as a way to make quick cash..  but just remember that they are only spraying it.. not warrantying it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote underdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by jeremy0711 jeremy0711 wrote:

If someone were to use a quality paint and rolled it and buffed it out and not told you then you most likely would not know the difference if it was done right.   
Wrong, I have been painting everything for over 40 years, It is expensive to buy a gallon of paint today. At least $100.00 and not counting thinner hardner or anything else that is required to bring the car up to the paint part. If you go the roller route, Your wasting good money. If you plan on sneaking by without automotive paint, Shame on you. I believe I gave you direction in the correct hood pin placement for a 1971 TA Javelin, Why go to this trouble and then barn paint this car? AMC are hard enough to find let alone a 1971 Javelin or Javelin/AMX. Please consider letting someone else purchase the car to restore correctly. I wish I could retract my earlier posts but this Forum does not allow me that luxury. I can't help someone about to use a roller on one of these cars.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SEdmonds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:43pm

There are several write ups on the web about people who roller painted their cars and had great results.  My question, if I was going to do this, would be what percentage of all roller painted cars turned out that well?  I have no idea, really - maybe it's just as high - or higher - than successful spray paint jobs.  I just know that MOST people aren't going to put out a blog talking about how rotten their project turned out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramairthree Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 6:00pm
I will speak from experience.
 
If you are years away for getting the body work and paint done right,
but want to test out a look and prevent further surface rust on a car that sat for twenty years and was heading to be parted out or scrapped or sit and rot-
go for the roller method.
 
I did.
 
I started off just hitting the car in rust preventive primer.  I was going to keep it that way and go to original color.  But I changed my mind.
 
It looks horrible up close.  I did minimal prep to boot.
 
Some have said they got awesome results this way and I have seen one car that looks as good as modern factory paint done this way.
 
The pros were you could do a part at a time, very cheap, virtually no mess, you can go back and spot catch up on body work, etc.
The cons are it takes forever
And in my case, the quality of the results.
I would not do it again, but am happy with it for now.
 
But at the end of the day, I have a car I can drive around like crazy and has a look I want, and the deterioration has been halted. 
 
my goal was a budget quickie job on a car that lives outside and I will drive in any weather.
 
I have an AMC on the road that draws a lot of attention and interest in AMC and it's history.
 
It also has duct tape on seat tears, a piece of black vinyl spay adhesived to the roof to replace the missing headliner, black spray dye on the faded carpet, incorrect screws replacing rusted out ones, testor model paint restored emblems, flaking and pitted chrome, various dings, etc. ...
 
you get the point.
 
it was an SST 2bbl BW automatic with single exhaust and a peg leg.
quality body work and paint would cost more than the car will sell for in my life time.
I would rather keep pecking away at mechanical reliablity and function.
 
 
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"If you are crazy enough to drive a 71 you might as well keep the BW tranny."
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