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Alarming oil leak |
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Scrapdaddy Sr. 
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Joined: Aug/05/2007 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 941 |
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 Topic: Alarming oil leakPosted: Apr/16/2011 at 5:22pm |
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OK, So it looks like the rear seal let go on My 258 in the Hornet. It's
and automatic trans. The reason I say that is it better to just pull the
motor out the top or drop the cross member and pull the pan and rear
main cap and install a new seal that way?
The leak is pretty bad and coated the underside of the car pretty well on the small run about the neighborhood today. |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 6:16pm |
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I've done 'em both ways. It's trickier, obviously, to do it in the car, but it can be done.
Luckily on the 70+ cars, you can block the upper control arms, pop the lower ball joints from the steering knuckle, and support the engine with a chain and 4x4 across the inside of the fenders, and drop the cross member pretty easily. No need to remove suspension, etc. But on a 6, it's almost as much or as little work to pull the engine. |
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Scrapdaddy Sr.
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Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 10:30pm |
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OK, After getting the motor ready to pull I did some closer inspection and discovered that the rear crank flange, Flex plate and bolts are completely dry and free of any oil residue leaving me to believe that the rear seal is not the problem.
Going to pull the cylinder head and replace all of the top end gaskets. The whole back of the motor, firewall, and transmission is covered with oil. Rather than just replacing the valve cover gasket I'm going to do the head gasket since I have the motor pulled down. I Just can't see pulling the motor twice since I will be replacing the motor with a 4.6 motor after the Power Tour run. Thoughts?? If the rear seal was leaking seems that at least the crank flange would be oily right? |
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pnypwr
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Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 11:07pm |
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most likely its just the valve cover...clean it up good and run it and look for the leak. idk if id pull the head on spec for a cover gasket...but if the crank flange and flywheel are dry I wouldnt be suspecting the rms to much. Is there an oil filter relo or adpter? Ive seen the cherokee 4.0l oil filter relo seal go and the oil blows back looking like a pan or rms...ive changed dozens of them, havnt done a ton of main seals tho
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70 amx 360 survivor
74 gremlin 390 69 amx 390 project 68 sport satellite vert 440 03 mach 1 4.6 4v with a snail 65 mustang notch 347 |
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 11:17pm |
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I'd drop the member and if you do, I'd go with the 1 piece silicone pan gasket to make life a lot easier.
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Scrapdaddy Sr.
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Posted: Apr/16/2011 at 11:57pm |
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Going to Pull the valve cover and check the gasket and go from there. here are a couple pics of what I'm talking about. This happened in the last week of driving. There has always been a little road grime on the bottom of everything but not all oily like you see here. All of the black lumpy grime on the oil pan and cross member is actually some type of undercoating. Now all gooey due to the oil.
I'm impressed with the Prothane Bushing on the strut rod. Holding up well being all oil soaked.   Edited by Scrapdaddy Sr. - Apr/17/2011 at 12:00am |
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Apr/17/2011 at 12:03am |
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As far forward the oil slick is, I'd say check the hole in the fuel pump.
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Apr/17/2011 at 12:06am |
It's not an XJ. Filter screws directly to the block |
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purple72Gremlin
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Posted: Apr/17/2011 at 12:49am |
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And take a look at the seal where the harmonic balancer is after you look at the fuel pump............if the fuel pump is leaking, look at the oil as well............
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Scrapdaddy Sr.
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Posted: Apr/18/2011 at 7:45am |
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Well so far the leaks are valve cover, gasket pushed out the back, oil light switch and front timing cover seal.
I recently started using full synthetic oil now leaks are everywhere. Must be the detergent in the oil cleaning out the sludge. The good news is the rear seal is nice and dry. NOT pulling the motor. some over cleaners and pressure washer followed up with some touch up paint will suffice for now until the new motor is ready to go in. Thanks for the tips and help, scrap
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pnypwr wrote: