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Brakes and Bonded Vs Riveted |
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toolmanxiii
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/16/2010 Location: Moncton Canada Status: Offline Points: 1384 |
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Posted: Mar/28/2011 at 1:50pm |
Just had to redo the rear brakes on a friends Eagle because he bought bonded shoes that separated. And I do mean redo. everything was bent and mangled . I bought riveted this time so it doesn't happen again. And the rear on my 71 Hornet have a left and right WC to make room for the rear sway bar linkage. And being a Bendix system the local parts shop had everything in stock.
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71 360 Hornet sst 83 2wd 360/727 Eagle wagon (crashed)
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purple72Gremlin
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16611 |
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I have found that riveted are usually better quality materials and Ive had bonded break loose.......
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Uh, no - there's definite left and right rear on Javelin, etc - the lines enter at a slight angle from the back.
Two different numbers. Same for the Eagle - two different numbers, there's a left rear and a right rear. It might vary between models, but for the Javelin/AMX series and Eagles they are indeed different. |
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KermitDRambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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Generally, rears are the same and fronts are different. The reason (in general) fronts are different is because the brake hoses go into them at an angle and the casting is drilled differently on each side.
Matt
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bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4464 |
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Nice pics, Billd!
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1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
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Gremlinamc1975
AMC Nut Joined: Feb/27/2009 Location: Silsbee, Texas Status: Offline Points: 320 |
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Aren't Bother Rear Wheel Cylinders the same, not side priority? but the front are correct?
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1970 Gremlin 232, 1974 Gremlin, 1977 Gremlin X, 1977 Gremlin X, 1979 Spirit DL, |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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I've have very good luck with new brake parts from rockauto. I will NOT ever use a rebuilt master cylinder, ever ever. I spent too bloody many years doing hundreds of brake jobs and have too much experience with reman masters. CRAP. I like riveted brake shoes and pads. Although bonded do transfer heat, I've seen my share of the bonded shoes let loose, and the riveted ones are quieter. (ever pull a drum and have the lining fall off a riveted shoe? I have on the bonded shoes......... ) Frankly, of all the brakes I've worked on over the past 35+ years, I can't say I've ever been able to tell how one type of shoe stopped better or worse than another - the material and CoF is more important, IMO, as is the fit, and drum surfacing. I rarely do a complete brake job and leave the original master cylinder in place - very rarely. I fit shoes to drums, always. Now days it's usually with a mallet (not a mullet), but I've also seen too many new shoe sets hit the drum at the leading and trailing ends and cause issues. The shoes should hit the drum in the middle of the shoe, and the ends not quite touch. That's the non-technical description. There are clearance specs for the arc of a shoe - the shoe fit to drum, but if you get them at least so there's not a gap in the middle, but the ends hit, and instead make the middle hit and the ends have a bit of a gap, you'll be better than most brake jobs done today by dealerships, sears, etc. Pretty much ignore the TSM on "how many threads" should show. How the heck can they know how much was removed from the drum, the thickness of the new linings etc?? I run them up until they drag, then back them off a bit, drive the car to break in the brakes, then re-adjust. It's a feel you get after your umpteenth brake job as to how tight or loose to do them, but basically, tighten until the drum is difficult to turn, then back off the adjuster so there's no real drag. Backing the car up and pumping the brakes will get them where they want to be. Takes a long straight driveway, and a lot of foot action on the brake pedal. It's the working of the shoes out and in that does the adjusting.
Make sure the backing plate pads are smooth! Sand them, weld them up and file/grind them flat and smooth again if needed. Clean and paint, and lube the pads where the shoes rest against.
NOTE the way the return springs are installed - there is a correct order to them.....
Note shoe type..........
pads on backing plate smooth, painted, then lubed:
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Gremlinamc1975
AMC Nut Joined: Feb/27/2009 Location: Silsbee, Texas Status: Offline Points: 320 |
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I remember why i never got one, wasn't sure if that the 70 would list gremlin, as it isn't stated on the front of the books, or would i just look under hornet?
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1970 Gremlin 232, 1974 Gremlin, 1977 Gremlin X, 1977 Gremlin X, 1979 Spirit DL, |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6670 |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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bikerfox
Moderator Group Joined: Aug/02/2009 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4464 |
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There are several right now on eBay for $50+. In the search box, type in "1970 amc manual" without the quotes and you'll see them. You may also want to get one of the Haynes manuals for early '70's cars as well on eBay. I like lots of reading materials about my vehicle!
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1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987)
1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
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