proper tools for amx rear hub and axle removal

I discovered a small outer axle leak on the backing plate so I am going to pull everything apart back there and replace inner and outer oil seals and replace wheel bearings at the same time.  Does anyone have any suggestions on the types of pullers(s) to use?  One for the hub and the other for the axle.  I see the spiffy ones in the tsm but I obviously don't have those but have access to some others.  Any personal experience out there?  thanks, turbo

otc makes a hub puller I just bought one #7394 , you hit it with a hammer , cost average price 140-170 dollars wise investment for any amc owner . that way you can remove the hub  from the axle I tried using a press it wouldnt work  the other tool you need is a slide hammer for removing the bearing race in the axle and a good hammer and a flat punch for knocking the bearing off the axle annd for reinstalling the race a brass punch , a good method for installing the bearing is boil some oil on a camp style stove and install hot slides on like butter

well I just did mine with the hub puller , I got the idea from a jeep website and they use the same diff , I tried pressing them out with our press at work , I got one but it was messy

wow, lots of good info here...the hub bending is definitely a concern see as replacement hubs are difficult to find and I hate breaking stuff if I can avoid it.....I wouldn't even try it unless I had the perfect tool..one that pulls on all 5 lugs and even then I wouldn't push it too hard...snap-on tool from a previous thread has only 3 fingers for pulling and I don't think I like that...further thoughts?   regards, all

Ive never had to use a slide puller for the axel.  This aint no GM C-Clip junk.  The axel is retained by the axel retainer plate and usually just comes right out.  The jeeps use a different flange and the Diff has very little to do with pulling the axel.  OTC tools are marginal at best and the tool usually gets fragged by the second pull.  You are correct in assuming only a five hole puller will work.  You can remove the whole assymbly in minutes but dont forget to take the nut off before you do.  You will not be able to hold it to get it loose later.  Follow the TSM EXACTLY.  There is an earlier thread called "Whirring sound" that demonstrates what happens when an expert shop doesnt follow the instructions on correct hub installation.  I have done at least a hundred and never a problem because I follow the TSM specs on thread protrusion and nut torque.  You may have a hard time finding a machine shop that knows how to do it or has the rite tools for their press.  Most older axel shops would have the stuff but you need to check their work after you get it back  Tight just don't do it.  Use a machinists ruler and check the thread protrusion or show the TSM to the shop and insist they follow it.  Again, see "Whirring sound"  In transmission and drive train.

Edited by 69 ambassador 390 - Mar/21/2011 at 8:02pm