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SST343 
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Joined: Jul/20/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 366 |
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 Topic: Fusible linkPosted: Mar/19/2011 at 7:14pm |
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My fusible link from the solenoid to alternator is toast. Today someone recommended going with a wire with built in fuse instead.
Is this a good choice, and if so what gauge wire should i use and what type of fuse is suggested. Thanks Edited by SST343 - Mar/19/2011 at 7:15pm |
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FuzzFace2
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Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
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Posted: Mar/19/2011 at 7:46pm |
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I do not know how they rate the wire but I have seen different ones at the parts store. So with that said dose the TSM say what size/rate the wire is, I don’t remember seeing it posted? If it was for the ALT. (output?) than I would go with one rated for the max output of the ALT. Check the stores to see what they have. Now the only issue going with a fuse over the wire is how fast each one pops! The fuse is a fast blow and the wire a slow blow. Lets say they are both rated for 40 amps as soon as the fuse hits 40 pop! Where the wire would not blow right away so could hang out at 40 amps before it pops. My .02 Dave ---- |
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Mar/19/2011 at 7:58pm |
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Find out why before doing anything................ they don't just go with no reason.
Dave is right.
So you have two reason to buy a whole box of fuses if you put a fuse in there:
1. you don't know WHY the link burned
2. Fuses will go faster.
There's a reason why a fusible link that has stood up for 40 years suddendly decided to leave town, unless you find out why, anything you replace it with could face the same fate. Edited by billd - Mar/19/2011 at 7:59pm |
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SST343
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Joined: Jul/20/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 366 |
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Posted: Mar/19/2011 at 8:17pm |
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I just looked through my TSM but can't seem to find a rating for the fusible link. I know my alternator is rated at 55amp.
I'm not positive, but I believe it probably shorted out due to the gauge of the wiring (very thin). In fact it doesn't seem to be original since there is a wire nut connecting it to the harness. Do any of the vendors sell replacements or is this a standard auto parts wire..? Thanks for your responses. |
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FuzzFace2
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Posted: Mar/19/2011 at 9:02pm |
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I dont know if the venders do or not as I have not looked but as said the local parts house has them.
This is what I have seen and yes they do seem lighter gauge wire than what it is conneted to as do all fuse links.
Dave ----
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SST343
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Posted: Mar/19/2011 at 10:20pm |
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Thanks Fuzz - I think I'm probably looking for 14 gauge to 10 gauge fusible link.
Thanks for the education :) |
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KermitDRambler
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Posted: Mar/21/2011 at 6:00am |
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You absolutely want a 14 gauge fusible link for a 10 gauge wire. Fusible links are always 4 sizes smaller than the wire they protect (they are also made out of different materials than regular wire and you can't substitute one for the other). Also, you should not solder the fusible link in place (heat from soldering can damage it and the solder also makes it brittle). Use crimp terminals and cover with heat shrink tubing.
You can get crimp terminals that have heat shrink tubing instead of hard plastic insulators. These are very nice but are pricey (about $1 each) and of course, don't look like anything the factory would have used. Uninsulated terminals with heat shrink tubing look the best but those don't work with the typical parts store wire crimpers (those are designed for insulated terminals).
Speaking of factory looking stuff, they would have used a terminal more like this http://www.pcsconnectors.com/splice_crimp_terminals.aspx than a standard butt terminal. The proper crimp tool for these is pricey (about $130) but you can use a pair of pliers and a weather pack crimp tool (about $30) to get a good strong crimp.
Matt Edited by KermitDRambler - Mar/21/2011 at 6:01am |
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FuzzFace2
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Posted: Mar/21/2011 at 3:22pm |
I took the stock part and added more fuse link wire , I have a roll in my elect. box, so it would reach where power is I could tap into as I did not know it was missing when I had the harness open
 Dave ----
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KermitDRambler
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Posted: Mar/21/2011 at 7:06pm |
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Dave,
If it works, you didn't overheat it which is what ruins it. Also, if it is well supported, the brittle issue isn't as much of an issue. When it gets to be an issue is on wiring attached to the engine which sees a lot of vibration.
Matt
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FuzzFace2
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Posted: Mar/21/2011 at 8:42pm |
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I dont think I used a lot of heat as it is just soldered like might not be
Because it is the horn relay power wire it's not a big deal if it falls apart. It is close to the wires that go to the motor (alt/oil light) and relays (horn/starter) and main harness so will see some vibration but is supported by other wires.
Thanks for the info.
Dave ----
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KermitDRambler wrote: