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Trunk Mounted Fuel Cell vs Stock Tank

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poormansMACHINE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/14/2010 at 9:20pm
A cell should be more rugged than a factory light gauge sheet metal tank in the event of a hit.
Not like plastic or aluminum is going to toss a spark even if they were punctured.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gremlin1945 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/15/2010 at 12:35am
Just buy an aluminum tank.get the size that will fit under the trunk.If you have fab skills you can make your own mounting straps (2) .THey come with a sending unit.You'll have to buy a trap door
to access the filler cap through the trunk floor.Also a plate to access the sender if need be.The vent should have a shroud over it inside the trunk then a down hose under the car.The fuel pickup has
AN fittings to an in line filter and a hose to the elect. fuel pump in front of the rear tire on the inside of the frame.
 NHRA rules mandate an alum. tank or an enclosed in metal plastic tank when mounted under the car.I'll put up some pics tomorrow of the install.Hope this helps.It's not a cheap job,but a safe one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/15/2010 at 10:02am
Another note on my setup, the plastic cell in my 77 does not currently have a metal enclosure around it for drag racing, but I did put in some mounting points for one in the future if I go in this direction. Also there is no trap door access in the trunk floor of the Javelin since I converted it to a side fill. The bottom suport frame for the tank has 2 horizonal 1" square tubes with a 3/8 threaded rod in each one. I can remove 2, 3/8" nuts, pull out the threaded rods and remove the whole tank pretty quick if needed. One other note is the foam in my 77 AMX tank has held up great since it was a name brand cell purchased from Summit Racing. I got my cell for the Javelin, new, at the Pomona swap meet. It was a little cheaper but the foam melted and completly ruined my in tank fuel pump assembly. I had to completly discard all the foam from this cell and clean the tank. The newer tank foam was black and must have been made out of a cheaper grade of non fuel resistant plastic.
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 5:00pm
I've chosen to use a fuel cell. Bought a Jeg's pro-street cell. Would really liked to have one of those powdercoated aluminum ones but the price it just too high.
 
Anyhow, the spatter paint on my trunk floor is kinda rough. I'm concerned it'll rub the cell and start leaking. Should I get a rubber mat or something to put between the bottom of the tank and the trunk floor?
 
How best to mount it? It's got the rear sump. Do you just cut out that part and mount it to the trunk floor? I've seen other cells mounted on standoffs so the sump is still inside the trunk. That doesn't seem like a good idea to me.
 
Please let me know you're thoughts & experiences.
 
Thanks,
-Steve-
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 7:00pm
Most cells come with a pair of aluminum straps to bolt them to the bottom of a frame or down to the trunk floor if reversed. If yours doesn't have the straps, you can get some aluminum flat stock from your local lumber store. If you need to space it up for the sump, you could use 1x1 or even 1x2" stock to shim it up. You need at least 2, 1" wide straps or supports under the cell if it doesn't sit on the floor flat. Personally I would cut a hole in the floor and drop the entire cell as low as possible, but you would need to build a metal box around the bottom. You might not want to cut the floor on an AMX, but that's the car you have so it's your choice. I believe your tank supports must hit a frame member or other structure to be NHRA legal. You might have to add some cross members under the floor to meet this requirement. It would suck to have a fuel cell break loose in a wreck. You will also need a metal firewall in the trunk or behind the rear seat area for the same reason. Even if you don't drag race, a firewall is still a good idea.

Edited by prostreetamx - Nov/18/2010 at 7:01pm
Richard Payne

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77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 8:01pm

With out looking up the cell I can tell you how I did mine in the Javelin it’s a drag only car. Now incase I want to turn the car back to street I don’t want to do anything that cant be undone. The cell is in the trunk but the sump sits below the floor. I cut the floor on 3 sides and pushed the “flap” down for the sump to fit thru. This flap helps protect the sump. I had to buy the straps but could have been made, to hold the cell in place. Bolts go thru the floor with large washers on the bottom side so they will not pull thru.

I was able to run the vent thru a plastic plug in the trunk floor with a roll over valve.

I also made a metal fire wall between me & the trunk. You will need to run a ground wire from the cell fill to ground as per NHRA.

Oh that flap I can push back up, weld, grind and you would never know.

Dave ----

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 11:05am
Been doing a lot of research online about legal fuel cell installations. Most people install the cell and fuel pump all in the trunk and others have the cell's sump and fuel pump below the trunk floor.
 
Some have built drop boxes for installing the cell somewhere between half and completely under the trunk floor. Even if just the sump part is below it must be shielded on the bottom and sides, the rear where the fittings are doesn't need to be sheilded.
 
I really don't like the idea of the pump being in the trunk. If the outlet side springs a leak it would be a really dangerous situation.
 
Here's what I've got in mind. I'll cut a section of the trunk floor for the sump to fit through and either use that section (as Fuzz did) plus some side pieces or a drop box to sheild the sump. Fuel pump will be mounted underneath on a fabricated bracket.
 
Braided line running up front to the engine, which brings up another question. Rules state that fuel line running past the torque converter have to be shielded somehow. I don't think they allow the fuel line to be run on the outside of the subframe either (like the factory did). I've heard of using pipe for shielding. Anyone had this issue?
 
Thanks,
-Steve-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 1:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/20/2010 at 4:02pm

Quote Here's what I've got in mind. I'll cut a section of the trunk floor for the sump to fit through and either use that section (as Fuzz did) plus some side pieces or a drop box to sheild the sump. Fuel pump will be mounted underneath on a fabricated bracket.

 

Braided line running up front to the engine, which brings up another question. Rules state that fuel line running past the torque converter have to be shielded somehow. I don't think they allow the fuel line to be run on the outside of the subframe either (like the factory did). I've heard of using pipe for shielding. Anyone had this issue?

 

Thanks,

-Steve-

Steve the way I did mine I can add pieces to the sides to “shield” the sump but no one has said a thing so far. I have a Summit canister filter & Holley blue pump mounted to a plate and the plate is bolted to the rear cross member behind the valance. Short braid from sump to filter inlet, close nipple filter to pump (both mounted to plate) then hard alum line (run down the right side in the stock 6 cly fuel line route) from pump to the engine bay. I have the hard line into the reg. mounted where the batt would be. Braid like kit(s) (Summit) from reg to carb.

Reg. Picture

http://cars.grantskingdom.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=715

I have moved the carb feed to the other side and have my PSI gauge where the carb feed is in the picture below.

http://cars.grantskingdom.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=345

Only picture of my cell, sorry no pump / filter. If you need me to I can get some.

http://cars.grantskingdom.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=271

 
The hard run in the stock route and is on the outside of the frame. Yes if inside you have to sheild it same for brake lines. BTW stock brake line run across the fire wall close to the flywheel and no one has said a thing about that yet either.
Dave ----


Edited by FuzzFace2 - Nov/20/2010 at 4:16pm
TSM = Technical Service Manual

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RADAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2010 at 9:50am
I run a factory tank with a sump and I narrowed it 4 inches on the pass side for a place to mount my pump and filters. I also ordered fuel cell foam  and installed it to control fuel slosh
I have 3.5 inch tail pipe all the way to the rear bumper so I needed to make room for the pump.
This is a EFI setup also



Edited by RADAMX - Nov/22/2010 at 9:52am
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