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AMC 20 Question

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zim390 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 8:15am
I just had Moser 1 piece axles installed in my 69 AMX rear-end.  I also had the shop that did the installation work beef up the rear-end by welding the spring perches and the axle tubes to the housing.  When I picked up the rearend, I tried turning the yolk at the front of the housing and found that it was very hard to turn....much harder than it was before installing the new axles.  I also know that the shop that did the work did not remove the ring & pinion / twin grip clutch assembly from the housing during the welding.  The welder did tell me that he heated the area close the weld to 300 degrees to ensure a good weld.  Is it normal for a rear-end to be tighter and harder to turn with new axles / bearings installed?  Could the welding have damaged the clutch assembly in the twin-grip differential?   I'm concerned that there could be a problem but don't have enough knowledge / experience to know.
 
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thx
Zim  
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amx39068 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 9:07am
Everything is now snug and tight with all new bearings and such so it should be tighter.  On the other hand, I assume he welded up the tubes before the axles were installed so as to not turn fry the new axles and bearings inside the tubes. 
 
I am betting all is fine and it will loosen up once the gear oil and bearing grease break in the new bearings.


Edited by amx39068 - Sep/25/2010 at 9:07am
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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zim390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zim390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 9:42am
Yes, he did weld up the tubes before installing the new axles.  My main concern was with the differential.  Since I've never had one apart or seen one close up, I wasn't sure whether any heat damage could occur.  I hope you're right and that everything will loosen up once it's all reinstalled.
Thanks for your feedback. 
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madmax View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmax Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 12:13pm
make sure the axle end play is correct.
 on some installations with a/m axles. the spacer in the center of the twin grip has to be removed. it may be pushing the axles slightly outward and when the retainers/bacing plates are tightened it is binding them. lossen those bolts and see if it turns freely. i would check this before driving to far.
if it is a end play issue it will trash your new bearings quickly.
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zim390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zim390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 3:53pm

Do you know which AM installations require removal of the spacer?  The old axles were sent to Moser, so the new ones were an exact duplicate length-wise.  Do you think it's safe to assume that since the lengths are exact, then the spacer (if any) would simply stay in?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmax Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 4:01pm
thats sounds reasonable to me that it could retain the spacer since the axles are the same length.
 i would still check the end play, it should use shims under the left side backing plate to adjust.
call moser and ask them about the spacer, its been a while but i remember something about removing it for some a/m axles i did, may have been another brand so best to call them and get thier recomendations.
 
rick 


Edited by madmax - Sep/25/2010 at 4:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXAAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2010 at 4:52pm
I am working on a rear now myself.  There shouldn't be any end play when you install the Moser axels because they use regular straight roller bearings, not the tapered ones the car came with.  For the factory tapered rollers, you needed end play just like your front wheel bearings.  Not the case with the new bearings.    You should leave the factory shims in and when tightened, you should have no play.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 390spirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2010 at 7:32am
take the spacer block out of the carrier when installing moser axles
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zim390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zim390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2010 at 8:36am
Thanks AMXAAR.  What about the spacer in the carrier......should that stay in or come out with the Moser axles?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 390spirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2010 at 9:34am
i welded the tubes and spring perches on my spirit with everything still in the housing, no problems with mine in the last couple years since its been done, now its all been changed to a 4 link with coilovers and all that welding was done with everything still in the housing, still no problems
 
if it were mine i would:
REMOVE THE SPACER BLOCK IN THE CARRIER, JMO, and i believe moser will suggest the same thing if you call them
do as you please its your car... 
Norm


Edited by 390spirit - Sep/26/2010 at 9:35am
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