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Silicone vs Synthetic Brake Fluid |
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71AMX4014SPD 
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Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1138 |
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 Topic: Silicone vs Synthetic Brake FluidPosted: Sep/20/2007 at 1:00am |
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I have had good results with silicone brake fluid. Has anyone tried the new Synthetic fluid? It's less expensive than the silicone, and can be used with ABS. I wonder if it absorbs moisture as the original brake fluid does? Thanks, Scott
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 1968 Javelin 360 727 B/W/R 1970 AMX 390 4spd Bayshore Blue 1971 Jav/AMX 401 4spd B6 |
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Menace SS/AMX
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Joined: Jul/18/2007 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 277 |
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Posted: Sep/21/2007 at 9:53am |
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Scott
I don't have any input on the synthetic brake fluid, but I really like the silicone fluid. As you probably already know It doesn't remove or even dull painted surfaces. It actually acted like polish or wax when it got on my backing plates while I was bleeding my brakes.
I finished building my Javelin about 3 years ago.
When I looked inside the master cyl. the other day it still looked brand new, no moisture or rust inside at all.
That's my 2 cents.
 Dennis
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My AMC Stable
1968 AMX (Craig Breedlove AMX600) 1969 SS/AMX Replica of(THE Big Menace) 1969 AMX 390,auto,Go Package 1970 AMX 390, 4 speed 1970 Javelin 401(Big Bad Red) 1968 AMX (FOR SALE) |
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sidewinder
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Joined: Oct/07/2007 Location: Niagara Falls, Status: Offline Points: 6665 |
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Posted: Oct/12/2007 at 12:48pm |
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I'm seriously thinking of going to going to synthetic or silicon break fluid. I'm going to be doing some detail work on my master and booster so I thought this might be a good time to change....does anyone know what the correct procedure is to do this or can I even do this? Do I need to remove and clean the rest of the system, calipers, lines?? Any help is appriciated.
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Chuck Page ,AKA Sidewinder
1968 "BLACK CHERRY" Javelin Previous owner of 2013 Heritage Cup winner 1970 BBO AMX |
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matty 401
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Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 1727 |
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Posted: Oct/13/2007 at 12:47am |
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i do no that you should not mix them need to flush out the old and stuff in the new
Edited by matty 401 - Oct/13/2007 at 12:47am |
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72 matador 401 the beast
79 concord 2 door 72 matador 304 grasshopper 68 Rogue 406 93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed |
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sidewinder
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Joined: Oct/07/2007 Location: Niagara Falls, Status: Offline Points: 6665 |
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Posted: Oct/13/2007 at 1:39am |
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I assumed that was the case. DOT 5 is what I would use. I guess I'm just not sure how well I have to flush.....I would guess the only way to get all the fluid out for sure is to take it all abart??.....not my idea of fun!!
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Chuck Page ,AKA Sidewinder
1968 "BLACK CHERRY" Javelin Previous owner of 2013 Heritage Cup winner 1970 BBO AMX |
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Ohio AMX
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: NE Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4935 |
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Posted: Oct/13/2007 at 7:55am |
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As noted every drop of DOT3 must be remover before switching to silicone. I replaced every piece of the braking system (except booster) so it was a great time to make the switch.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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poormansMACHINE
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Posted: Oct/13/2007 at 8:44am |
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I've run the Valvoline synthetic since it was introduced and never had any problems.
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farna
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Posted: Oct/14/2007 at 6:13am |
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Flushing isn't that hard. I used rubbing alcohol to flush the system on mine, but others suggest you use alcohol from a hardware store made for cleaning brushes and such, no water in it). Open a bleeder valve and pump the fluid out. As the MC empties replace fluid with alcohol. Bleed until you get alcohol out. Then go to the other three wheels and bleed, one at a time, until you have alcohol coming out. Then open the bleeders and pump the alcohol out.
I did this several times when I ran silicone fluid for a while in my car and motorcycle. It didn't work in the bike because silicone expands a little with heat. A car caliper is big enough, takes more fluid to operate, and is shaded by the wheel, so it really doesn't get hot enough to expand the fluid to the point the brakes drag. The bike rear brake was fine (MC and caliper shaded), but the front brakes and MC were exposed. On a hot summer day in Georgia the fluid would expand enough to lock the brakes if parked in an open parking lot. Park in a shaded area and it was fine. This is why road racers don't use silicone fluid, but under normal driving conditions it's not a problem.
The only problem I had with the car was forgetting that I used different fluid! Mixed it by accident a couple times, and that was enough for me! Both times I remembered just as I started to pour regular fluid in. I only got a few drops in the second time, so I took a large syringe and sucked the MC dry then filled with silicone fluid. 2-3 days later the left front wheel started locking up. A few drops of regular fluid in silicone is enough to gell in a line, apparently! Since that was the second time (admittedly a year apart) I flushed and went back to regular brake fluid. There's no real advantage to silicone if you drive the car regularly -- moisture isn't a problem. If a car sits a lot, moisture can build up and cause problems, eventually leading to brake failure.
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Frank Swygert
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billd
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Posted: Oct/14/2007 at 6:45am |
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Synthetic will mix directly with "regular", unlike silicon.
It's recommended to do a complete brake hydraulic system flush annually with regular fluid. That's been the recomendation for decades. So the best results with regular fluid are a regular flush.
I'd never put anything but brake fluid in a brake hydraulic system, including any alcohol. I just don't. I'd only ever do that with the lines only - if the cylinders and calipers were removed first. But I'd not do it with any cylinders or calipers in place.
If you want to switch to synthentic, it's simple - they mix, but I'm not so sure how much different it is in qualities like the water absorbsion, system sludge build-up or paint removal of "regular".
I did go synthetic in the clutch on the SX/4 since I replaced lines and both master and slave on it with new. It feels just like regular fluid.
I'm considering powdercoating the master on the Javelin.........to help prevent finish removal by brake fluid.
The only way I'd switch to silicon personally is if I replaced or rebuilt all cylinders.
3/4 of this is my opinion, however the regular system flushes are right out of the brake manufacturers handbook, not opinion.
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i am talking about the dot 5