69 AMX Upper ball joint conversion

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   Can you put upper ball joints on a 69 amx? Yes and not as hard as replacing all the inner fenders to a 70 model. Why? Unpleasnt springs could be a cause. Too stiff and too tall (at least to me) OEM front springs were removed about 1975 and put on a shelf till about 1985 and they took a set. oops. Once the motor was put back in the car they really never settled down.
So how would you change from the trunion to a ball joint?
Start by getting a 70 or later spindle, they just bolt on. I used Ebay. I thought I had a drum set from a 74, but I was mistaken. About 30 bucks.
Next you need a upper control arm. I started out with http://rightfootperformance.net/catalog/pdf/upperaframe.pdf
as a kit 9905 without the crossshaft. About 180 bucks.
Now I had to modify this 10 degree control arm. It needed to be 8.25 inchs across center to center instead of 10 inch (from a chevlle to a amc spec). I first tried the press to get this dimension. Then I figured out that while you could you can't. The ball joint ring was the weak link unless maybe you left a ball joint in. Which you could do, but you would never get it out.
So I used a plasma cutter to remove the ball joint rig and using the unchanged arm to make a jig. Ball joint rings (small sleeve threaded) about 20 bucks. 
Moog ball joints marked 5485 were bought for 40 bucks. I had a new very old ball joint in my toolbox for about 20 years and it fit the upper ball joint taper nicely. This joint is also Duralast FA395. Upper ball joint ordered for 70 model challanger. The stock car ball joints now marked 5485 did not fit the upper joint, never figured out what changed and when. 
Now for the length of the arms 
Center of the ball joints to the weld on threaded bushings is about 6 3/8. With the rod ends that worked out to a total 8 3/4 from grease fitting to center of 5/8 rod ends. 
Since the AMX used 1/2 inch bolts on upper control arm a 5/8 bronze bushing to 1/2 was used.
about 15 bucks including shipping.
Now the rod ends are not the same width as the bushing so you need 1 1/4 inch of thick walled tubing is needed per bushing. These were used to center the rod ends in the openings. Also any changes were used to increase caster in a positive direction. Per side you need 4 bushings - 2 5/8 length and 2 custom lengths for 1 1/4 inch. If your jig is perfect and the welding heat shift is figured in then the bushings could all be the same.
 I did call Right Foot Performance and they could sell the kits un welded, which would save a bunch of work. But they could not sell a kit form with 8 1/4 centered, due to the work needed and volume. this unweled kit will be cheaper then what I paid.
If I find out how to post pictures I will.
The rim width coud be changed much wider if desired.
Still working on the QA1 shock and spring setup

This mod could be reversed if needed.