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rear end swap 56-66 Classic

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/27/2012 at 1:35pm
holey karap, that's really nice stuff. it's great to see people doing new, original work for our old beasts. I'm totally in favor of seeing what billd suggests re: a stick page.

This sort of knowledge snowballs too, this solution might solve half of another that someone can build on.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AtticusJackal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/05/2012 at 4:35pm
Oh wow that would be a really nice upgrade to have the overdrive setup!! I should message the guy and see about just getting the trans-to-engine adapter peices and just run a 4-link 8.8 rear. 

Gah, but then I'd have two different bolt patterns. Ick. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/05/2012 at 7:10pm
Nope -- the Ford 8.8" rear axle uses the same bolt pattern as AMC -- 5 x 4.5".  You'd only have two bolt patterns if you use a Chevy S-10 rear axle (which also fits pretty good width wise). Or a Jaguar IRS like I have. 

I got around the two bolt patterns by using a dual pattern wheel (Weld Drag Lites). I needed a deep offset to prevent narrowing the Jag IRS. For a spare I bought a 4" wide centered Weld Drag Lite wheel and run a 165/80R15 tire on it (VW Beetle tire... might be 165/75). That gives me a dual pattern mini spare. 
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AtticusJackal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/06/2012 at 4:52am
Whaaaat? Even the ranger 8.8 is 5 on 4.5? I'd really love to be able to use my stock wheels since I just bought four new tires! Not to mention the hubcaps look great on the old wagon :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 59ramblersuper6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2012 at 2:18pm
I wanted to show off my build. Feel free to use this in a sticky.

Please pardon my rust as I am lazy and haven't painted anything yet.

Suspension set-up
The Rear I used is a Dana 35 non C-clip, 4.11 open rear from a 89' YJ. Lots of aftermaket support and only 3/4 of an inch narrower than stock.
30in Ladder Bars, mounts and shackle eyes custom made from High mountain hot rods.
Coils springs, track bar, spring mounts, shocks mounts and shocks all stock 1959 rambler.
custom length Driveshaft.

Frame Bracing
Made sub-frame connectors out of 2in box stock running the whole length of the passenger floor and cross braced them with a drive shaft loop. drive shaft loop hangs down to low so cut 1.5 inches out of it. This may have been overkill.

Wheels
I machined a set of 1.25in spacers to make the stock 15in wheels fit over the larger axles shafts.

Brakes
Stock 10in drum 2inch wide YJ brakes. Stock Rambler rubber hose and T fitting to 3/16 brake line. 
mated the stock rambler intermediate e-brake cable to 89' YJ e-brake cables. I used the longer passenger side YJ cable on the driver-side and the YJ intermediate cable on the passenger side to get enough length to meet up with the stock rambler cable. Made the bracket from box stock and welded washers in to fit the cables in place. still doesn't quite work right yet. 














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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2012 at 3:32pm
Not bad! I tried using a MJ (Comanche) axle once under my Classic and found that it was about 3" too wide. Never thought about using the TJ/YJ (Wrangler) axle. I was under the impression that it was the same as the XJ (Cherokee)and MJ, not narrower. Sounds like the TJ/YJ axle is about the same width as an early Ranger axle. Of course TJ/YJ vehicles are rarely found in most salvage yards. A good source might be the local 4x4 shops though. Many upgrade the axles and have no use for the original D35. 
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 59ramblersuper6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2012 at 3:46pm
The Dana 35 is a viable option when building for a re-power. Stock they easily handle the stock 4.0 in the Cherokee You can 250k+ miles of of those easy. Lockers, 1 piece axles a plethora of gear ratios are available. just steer clear of the 1993 models as the spider gears are not available. I had 3 of them just lying around sold all of them for about $125 a piece. The one in the car a guy bought off of me and never picked it up so it was basically free for me. It has 150k on it and will need a set of spider gears (lots of slop in the gears. If I keep my foot out of it should last me a few years. I plan to just upgrade to a locker and 1 piece axles. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2012 at 5:07pm
I agree -- it's plenty strong, even for a stock to mild V-8. The XJ/MJ is 3" wider than the stock 63 Classic axle. I used 3.75" backset 7" wheels (0.25" more backset than normal 7") with 205/65R15 tires and they would still scrub if I had any load at all when hitting bumps. With just the driver it was okay, anyone or thing in the back and it would scrub. deeper offset wheels would do the trick, but according to your measurements the TJ/YJ axle fits perfectly at 3" or so narrower than the XJ/MJ.

Yours doesn't have one piece axles? I thought all the 84+ models did!  
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2012 at 9:47pm
From what I can see in the photos, the suspension doesn't allow for rotation of the rear axle, longitudinally. Eg. what happens when you jack up one rear tire but leave the other one on the ground. Or go over a bump with one wheel and not the other, etc.

The original torque tube setup handles that by having the big trunnion rubber joint; some designs use a "wishbone" to the same effect, or Heim joints at *both* ends of the 'ladder bar'.

Without some accomodation, it's gonna break parts for sure.

Maybe the mechanical solution is in there but not visible in the photos.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2012 at 5:09am
That's the drawback of a ladder bar installation. There isn't much longitudinal rotation, just a little flex in the joints and arms. If you jack up one side of the car it might get an inch off the ground before the other side starts coming up, that's about it. Affects ride too -- if one wheel bumps up much it may as well have been both hitting the bump. As long as the roads are fairly smooth you'll never notice. Luckily most of today's roads are relatively smooth... at least smooth enough.

A mount could be made on the axle to allow more movement -- a pivot or rubber mount instead of welding solid. That would improve ride a bit. At least handling is good -- no need for a rear sway bar! He might want to add a stiff one up front though, rear end will be "tighter" than the front!
Frank Swygert
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