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304 rocker arm/lifter issues

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soundman View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jun/08/2009 at 11:10am
Hello all,
Having fits with my 304 AMC/Jeep valvetrain. All started with a valvetrain tick, traced it down to the drivers side bank, pulled the valve cover and bridges and saw a couple of bridges galled. Bought new rocker arms and bridges, installed them and torqued them down to 20ft lbs. Started the Jeep, and it ran rough, backfiring, and popping. Backed the bridge cap screws off a couple of threads each and it smoothed right out. Took all the new bridges off to compare to the old ones...identical. Put the old valvetrain back on, and its doing the same thing. Do the lifters "pump up" when the rockers are taken off? And if so, what is the proper way to get these back into adjustment without hanging the valves open?
Thanks!   Terry 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whizkidder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2009 at 11:17am
Originally posted by soundman soundman wrote:

Do the lifters "pump up" when the rockers are taken off? And if so, what is the proper way to get these back into adjustment without hanging the valves open?
 
Yep.
 
I'd try tightening the bridges back down, turning the engine until both (if possible) lifters are part-way up a lobe on the cam, and leaving them sit that way for awhile.  Valve-spring tension should eventually cause enough oil to leak past the plungers to get the lifters "un-pumped."  If the lifters are really tight on clearance, you may have to pull the intake, and disassemble the lifters to get them to compress.
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soundman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote soundman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2009 at 12:52pm
would it be advisable to let it run for a bit with them backed off slightly, and slowly bring them back into full adjustment?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2009 at 10:24pm
Originally posted by soundman soundman wrote:

Hello all,
Having fits with my 304 AMC/Jeep valvetrain. All started with a valvetrain tick, traced it down to the drivers side bank, pulled the valve cover and bridges and saw a couple of bridges galled. Bought new rocker arms and bridges, installed them and torqued them down to 20ft lbs. Started the Jeep, and it ran rough, backfiring, and popping. Backed the bridge cap screws off a couple of threads each and it smoothed right out. Took all the new bridges off to compare to the old ones...identical. Put the old valvetrain back on, and its doing the same thing. Do the lifters "pump up" when the rockers are taken off? And if so, what is the proper way to get these back into adjustment without hanging the valves open?
Thanks!   Terry 
 
You may have a streched timing chain that jumped a couple of teeth and caused some piston to valve issues to break the multiple broken bridges.  Both are common and related problems and the backfiring further suggests jumped timing as well.  Lifters don't normally get pumped up simply because you removed the rocker assemebly so the reason it smoothed right out when you backed off may be due to the jumped timing impact being lessened with a slower valve opening.
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2009 at 10:31pm
What's the history of this engine before this started?
Original aluminum bridges were easy to gall up. Any chance that someone's fix before you was to install longer pushrods?
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soundman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote soundman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2009 at 7:06am
At some point it's had a reman engine put in, and it wasn't driven much at all, so not sure of the mileage but it can't be many. Ran great, doesn't smoke. Well, it all started with a valve train tick only after the engine warmed up to operating temperature. I traced it back to the drivers side bank rear area of the valve cover. Pulled the valve cover and all the bridges and the rear two bridges (aluminum) were a bit galled, so I went down to the local parts store and bought a set of Sealed Power rockers and bridges. Those had the separate steel pivots and steel strap bridge, didn't think much about it , other than it was a design change. Installed those and that's when the  issue started. Fired it up and would hardly run, bcaked off the cap screws a couple of turns on all that side and it smoothed out. So I thought there was was an issue with the design change. The rockers looked identical, so I scrounged some brand new factory aluminum bridges and bought the full set...last ones he had. After measuring the distance from where the cap screw goes to the area where it sits on the head boss, they all matched the factory ones I pulled off within a couple of thousandths. Put the new alum ones on with the new rockers and same thing....ran rough but backed all off a couple of threads and smoothed out.  Got frustrated and installed all the old rockers and bridges and dang if it was doing the same thing with all the old components.....leading to the question of the lifters pumping up with the valvetrain off. I really have no clue where to go with this now. Appreciate everyones input! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Class Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2009 at 7:11am
Here's a possibility.  Rebuilt engine = block decked, heads surfaced = shorter distance from the camshaft to the rocker arms = too much preload on the lifters.  If you put too much preload on the lifters, the engine will run rough at low RPM.  A simple solution might be to put shims underneath the rocker stands (bridges).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2009 at 9:22am
Originally posted by Class Guy Class Guy wrote:

Here's a possibility.  Rebuilt engine = block decked, heads surfaced = shorter distance from the camshaft to the rocker arms = too much preload on the lifters.  If you put too much preload on the lifters, the engine will run rough at low RPM.  A simple solution might be to put shims underneath the rocker stands (bridges).
 
That should not account for the before and after change with nothing else different other than new rocker assemblies.
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2009 at 10:10am
it does kinda sound like pumped up lifters. Put them all on, turn the motor over backwards a few times. (yes I know it sounds crazy)   if you have a good oil pump, it will suck the lifters back down, start the motor, it shoud clatter for a second and then smooth out. I had this problem on an old ford motor, my dad suggested it, and it worked for me. Good luck.

Edited by forest - Jun/09/2009 at 10:10am
setting guys out by car lengths....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Class Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2009 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by amx39068 amx39068 wrote:

Originally posted by Class Guy Class Guy wrote:

Here's a possibility.  Rebuilt engine = block decked, heads surfaced = shorter distance from the camshaft to the rocker arms = too much preload on the lifters.  If you put too much preload on the lifters, the engine will run rough at low RPM.  A simple solution might be to put shims underneath the rocker stands (bridges).
 
That should not account for the before and after change with nothing else different other than new rocker assemblies.
 
Whatever.  Just trying to help.
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