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Screech...clunk

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monasmarlin View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/22/2020 at 9:31pm
New problem with the '65 Marlin I inherited from my dad and just started this year after getting it out of winter storage.

Put the car into drive and it will screech and then clunk and then move. Doesn't do it all the time (maybe only 1 out of 10 times) and only when shifting from park into drive. My first thought was a brake shoe hanging up but had the brakes inspected and adjusted. Happened to the mechanic when he was test driving it after working on the brakes and said it WAS NOT the brakes and maybe the torque tube or transmission. 

Putting it in this section per what he suggested where the problem may be. Idea what the problem is?
1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
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1966 Marlin 327/Auto.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2020 at 7:59am
Check fluid levels and valve body could be gunk one it 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2020 at 11:36pm
Could the screech be a fan belt, related to RPM change and nothing else?
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2020 at 7:58am
The clunk could be low trans fluid or a sticking valve in the transmission. But more likely it's the rubber support on the end of the trans crossmember. If you get under the car you will see a short metal piece sticking toward the inside at each end of the trans crossmember. It sticks in from the "frame" rail (the sill). The crossmember end should be about 3/4" ABOVE that piece, not sitting ON it. That piece is actually a channel that keeps the crossmember form going up or down too far should the rubber mount fail. After more than 50 years it probably has. Galvin's has replacements. When it fails the end of the crossmember moves up and down when going from park to drive and the end of the crossmember clunks.

The screech could be something hitting when the motor and trans moves, or just an old fan belt. Belts get hard with age and don't grip in the V groove so good. If they are old just replace them, even if they look ok.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote monasmarlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2020 at 8:09am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

Could the screech be a fan belt, related to RPM change and nothing else?

I don't think so, it is more of a "cat's howl" instead of a belt squeal. When I put it in gear, it will screech, with the pitch increasing with me pressing on the gas, then "clunk" everything is fine. This only happens only the first 5 feet or so, if even that. That is what made me think the brake shoes were hanging up.

farna- seen your post after I posted mine. Will check out the mount and see the condition of that.


Edited by monasmarlin - May/25/2020 at 8:11am
1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/25/2020 at 8:40am
Sounds like the front pump is starving trans fluid.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2020 at 6:16am
Well, it could be something internal in the transmission hanging up. Or the torque converter. Check everything else first. You might need to pull the torque tube so you can check that CV joint. It could be "flopped" to the side and slinging back in place, though I doubt it... never had one act like that before. One check for that is to jack and support the rear end then put it in gear. Does it still screech? Then the issue is in the drivetrain. If it doesn't, it's in something that rolls, like the brakes or something rubbing a tire or wheel. The tie rods are very close to the wheels on some of these, so it could be a wheel weight or wheel edge scraping a tie rod, and when the tie rod rotates a bit from the scraping it stops. THAT I've had happen -- a thin 1/8" spacer may be all it takes to fix it. Also, could it be the starter hanging up? If the Bendix drive doesn't disengage it can make noise. It would do that whether the car was moving or not though.

If you suspect the transmission it could be expensive. CHECK THOSE RUBBER MOUNTS ON THE CROSSMEMBER FIRST!! If one or both have collapsed that could be the whole cause of your issue. You can try cutting a couple wood blocks as spacer and put one on top, jack up the crossmember, and wedge one in the bottom (between the channel and CM on top and bottom) so it won't move. The driver's side is usually the one that causes the most problem. I'd wedge that one and see if it doesn't reduce or eliminate the problem.

If that doesn't work, you can drop the trans pan and pull the valve body, take it apart, and thoroughly clean it and the pressure regulator. Don't do this without a TSM!! You can also adjust the bands while in there. If that doesn't do it, the trans will need to be rebuilt and the torque converter checked. Bearings going bad in the converter can do what you describe. I'd suspect that before the pump. If this doesn't do the trick it's time to rebuild the trans and/or converter. Pull both and have converter checked first. When you drop the pan you may have a clue -- lots of metallic shavings in the pan/oil indicates something has been grinding itself apart... Have the converter checked before rebuilding, you might be lucky. At that point I'd really consider having the trans rebuilt anyway, but budget might not allow...

It's remotely possible that a converter or flexplate bolt has come loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote monasmarlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2020 at 7:02pm
Originally posted by 401MATCOUPE 401MATCOUPE wrote:

Sounds like the front pump is starving trans fluid.............
and AMX007 with low fluid.
 

Sooo..read through the TSM (for a '66 , I think they are the same) and CORRECTLY checked the transmission fluid. Let it get up to temp, ran through the gears, etc... and nothing showed up on the stick. 

Had the car "serviced" (LOF) last year before putting it away and nothing was said about low transmission fluid and no leaks on the floor under the car so assumed everything was okay. 

Next trip to Walmart will get some Dexron/Mercon and hope it is the problem and a cheap fix. As per farna, the next time I have the car up in the air I will take a close look at the mount.

Wonder if Walmart jack stands are better than the ones I returned to Harbor Freight? 



Edited by monasmarlin - May/26/2020 at 7:21pm
1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
Black/Silver.

1966 Marlin 327/Auto.
Samoa Gold/White


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monasmarlin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote monasmarlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2020 at 6:12pm
Added about 1 1/2 quarts and took it for about a 20 mile drive with multiple stops. Screeced once right at the beginning and only for a brief moment. Thought my problem was fixed. 4 blocks from home pulling out from a stoplight and it screeeeeced!! Car would not move forward it it would shake/shutter the more I stepped on the gas. So bad I put it in reversed and backed out of the intersection. Put it back in drive, waited for the next green light and pulled away with no issues. 

Another thing I have noticed is the car will shift "hard" into gear. Put it in drive or reverse and the car will "jump". Seems to shift smoothly once in drive.

Will get the car up in the air to check the mounts and see if anything is loose underneath.
1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
Black/Silver.

1966 Marlin 327/Auto.
Samoa Gold/White


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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2020 at 11:54pm
Though your symptoms sound to me like a hard failure, make sure that the transmission throttle cable is intact and adjusted right. Wrong, you can do real harm. V8s had a vacuum modulator setup, and/or some years. YMMV, and RTFM. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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