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Screech...clunk |
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farna 
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19692 |
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 Topic: Screech...clunkPosted: Jun/01/2020 at 5:43am |
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The cable adjustment procedure is the same for sixes and V-8s (M-3x and M-1x). It's found in the "Tune-Up" section, page 6 of auto trans section, the very last paragraph. In 66 the recommended method is to use a pressure gauge. In previous TSMs (I checked the 65), to set the initial cable position, you make sure the carb fast idle IS NOT set and the throttle linkage is in idle position, set the cable for a "loose pin fit" (pin easily slides out of the clevis where it connects to linkage), then lengthen the cable by two turns. You can go as much as three turns longer for a bit crisper shifting, but if you go past 3.5 turns you will find the trans down-shifting too early and it will be hard to maintain speed going up hills without dropping into second gear, especially at lower speeds (under 60-65... trans won't down-shift over that speed range) with heavier loads. I'd start with no more than 2.5 turns long after a loose pin fit. Of course if you have a pressure gauge that is a better method, hence the change in the TSM cable adjustment procedure. The 65 TSM still lists pressures, the adjustment procedure is just for the initial setting -- fine tune with pressure. I always set mine as far as I could without premature kick-down, which was about 3 turns past a loose pin fit. That was with a hopped up 196 in a 63 American, you will just have to set yours and see. You won't have a problem with higher pressure except for the premature kick-down... not with pressure set by the cable.
Edited by farna - Jun/01/2020 at 5:50am |
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Frank Swygert
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monasmarlin
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Joined: Jul/06/2008 Location: North Iowa Status: Offline Points: 676 |
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Posted: May/31/2020 at 8:24pm |
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1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
Black/Silver. 1966 Marlin 327/Auto. Samoa Gold/White |
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farna
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Posted: May/31/2020 at 7:17pm |
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One more thing -- check the cable first. They can corrode inside and become difficult to move. You should be able to look at it and tell if it's going in and coming out easily by moving the throttle by hand and watching it. Make sure it doesn't buckle as the throttle is opened, but goes in smoothly without much effort.
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Frank Swygert
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farna
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Posted: May/31/2020 at 7:04pm |
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Or the Ford FMX. The FMX (and earlier Ford autos) are license built Borg-Warners. There are some internal differences, but many parts interchange, and if they have experience with those they will be able to handle any BW model. Volvo used Borg-Warners through the 80s, a variant of the M-35 up through around 76 or 77. The later model BWs (50 and 60 series) are a totally different design, more akin to the AW4. I'd get a TSM if you don't have one, and send it to the shop with the trans even if you pull it yourself and they don't think they need it. I did that once, and the shop thanked me when I picked the car up. Said there were a couple things that wasn't covered well in their trade manuals and the TSM came in handy.
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Frank Swygert
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monasmarlin
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Posted: May/31/2020 at 8:00am |
I will take a closer look at that. No problems before this spring so didn't want to start adjusting something that didn't need to be adjusted and really mess things up. Just wondering why it would be a very intermittent problem as if something wasn't adjusted right I would think it would be most of the time. Looks like I will be contacting the transmission shop and see if they have even heard of a BW Flash-O-Matic.
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1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
Black/Silver. 1966 Marlin 327/Auto. Samoa Gold/White |
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farna
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Posted: May/31/2020 at 7:41am |
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65-66 V-8s used a cable, all others a vacuum modulator. It's starting to sound like a hard failure of something inside, maybe the sprag clutch (a one-way clutch). If everything is intact underneath I'd proceed with dropping the pan and a thorough cleaning of the valve body and pressure regulator assembly. If that doesn't do it, it's rebuild time.
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Frank Swygert
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tomj
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Posted: May/30/2020 at 11:54pm |
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Though your symptoms sound to me like a hard failure, make sure that the transmission throttle cable is intact and adjusted right. Wrong, you can do real harm. V8s had a vacuum modulator setup, and/or some years. YMMV, and RTFM.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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monasmarlin
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Posted: May/30/2020 at 6:12pm |
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Added about 1 1/2 quarts and took it for about a 20 mile drive with multiple stops. Screeced once right at the beginning and only for a brief moment. Thought my problem was fixed. 4 blocks from home pulling out from a stoplight and it screeeeeced!! Car would not move forward it it would shake/shutter the more I stepped on the gas. So bad I put it in reversed and backed out of the intersection. Put it back in drive, waited for the next green light and pulled away with no issues.
Another thing I have noticed is the car will shift "hard" into gear. Put it in drive or reverse and the car will "jump". Seems to shift smoothly once in drive.
Will get the car up in the air to check the mounts and see if anything is loose underneath. |
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1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
Black/Silver. 1966 Marlin 327/Auto. Samoa Gold/White |
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monasmarlin
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Joined: Jul/06/2008 Location: North Iowa Status: Offline Points: 676 |
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Posted: May/26/2020 at 7:02pm |
and AMX007 with low fluid. Sooo..read through the TSM (for a '66 , I think they are the same) and CORRECTLY checked the transmission fluid. Let it get up to temp, ran through the gears, etc... and nothing showed up on the stick. Had the car "serviced" (LOF) last year before putting it away and nothing was said about low transmission fluid and no leaks on the floor under the car so assumed everything was okay. Next trip to Walmart will get some Dexron/Mercon and hope it is the problem and a cheap fix. As per farna, the next time I have the car up in the air I will take a close look at the mount. Wonder if Walmart jack stands are better than the ones I returned to Harbor Freight? Edited by monasmarlin - May/26/2020 at 7:21pm |
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1965 Marlin. 327/Auto.
Black/Silver. 1966 Marlin 327/Auto. Samoa Gold/White |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Online Points: 19692 |
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Posted: May/26/2020 at 6:16am |
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Well, it could be something internal in the transmission hanging up. Or the torque converter. Check everything else first. You might need to pull the torque tube so you can check that CV joint. It could be "flopped" to the side and slinging back in place, though I doubt it... never had one act like that before. One check for that is to jack and support the rear end then put it in gear. Does it still screech? Then the issue is in the drivetrain. If it doesn't, it's in something that rolls, like the brakes or something rubbing a tire or wheel. The tie rods are very close to the wheels on some of these, so it could be a wheel weight or wheel edge scraping a tie rod, and when the tie rod rotates a bit from the scraping it stops. THAT I've had happen -- a thin 1/8" spacer may be all it takes to fix it. Also, could it be the starter hanging up? If the Bendix drive doesn't disengage it can make noise. It would do that whether the car was moving or not though. If you suspect the transmission it could be expensive. CHECK THOSE RUBBER MOUNTS ON THE CROSSMEMBER FIRST!! If one or both have collapsed that could be the whole cause of your issue. You can try cutting a couple wood blocks as spacer and put one on top, jack up the crossmember, and wedge one in the bottom (between the channel and CM on top and bottom) so it won't move. The driver's side is usually the one that causes the most problem. I'd wedge that one and see if it doesn't reduce or eliminate the problem. If that doesn't work, you can drop the trans pan and pull the valve body, take it apart, and thoroughly clean it and the pressure regulator. Don't do this without a TSM!! You can also adjust the bands while in there. If that doesn't do it, the trans will need to be rebuilt and the torque converter checked. Bearings going bad in the converter can do what you describe. I'd suspect that before the pump. If this doesn't do the trick it's time to rebuild the trans and/or converter. Pull both and have converter checked first. When you drop the pan you may have a clue -- lots of metallic shavings in the pan/oil indicates something has been grinding itself apart... Have the converter checked before rebuilding, you might be lucky. At that point I'd really consider having the trans rebuilt anyway, but budget might not allow... It's remotely possible that a converter or flexplate bolt has come loose.
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Frank Swygert
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tomj wrote: