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To Moog or not to Moog. That is the question |
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bigbad69 
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Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6668 |
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 Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 8:43am |
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I once had a NAPA counterman explain the difference between the one year warranty part and the lifetime warranty part. In fact, it was the exact same part (TRW), but the price was slightly higher to cover the extra take back on the lifetime part. A warranty doesn't mean they don't think it will fail during the stated period, it means the actuaries have budgeted for a calculated number of failures and tacked that cost onto the price of the part. If you buy a part and it doesn't fail, you have lost money because you paid for someone else to be compensated for their part failure. In this respect, the above mentioned three year warranty part is a better deal... if it doesn't fail.
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Mopar_guy
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Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4826 |
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Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 9:47am |
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FWIW I would keep using any of the original tie rod ends and ball joints if they're still tight. Throwing them out for new is a waste of money. Most of the new stuff is less quality than the original stuff is. I've had good luck with Mevotech stuff in several vehicles after having Moog stuff fail. Moog is not the brand it once was.
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Heavy 488
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Joined: Apr/27/2019 Location: In the Status: Offline Points: 3553 |
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Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 10:31am |
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Nothing wrong with keeping an old part as long as it's good. With steering parts, look for more than play. Grabbing it with your hands isn't exhibiting the same forces as driving. Take it loose and check for articulation. Any noticeable tight or loose spots? Ive had good luck with Mevotech across 4 different vehicles. From tie rods to steering boxes.
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purple72Gremlin
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Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16611 |
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Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 10:40am |
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Moog does not have the quality. Years ago they did. Napa used to be good years ago as well. I dont like too many brands anymore because 90% have gone down in quality
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CHAR
AMC Nut
Joined: Feb/22/2019 Location: NW Florida Status: Offline Points: 354 |
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Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 2:00pm |
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Thanks for all the comments. FYI Moog parts from Rockauto ala carte are $160 -ball joints, tie rods and sleeves and an idler arm bushing. I havent disassembled the front end yet, just observed that all the bushings and boots are toast and are probable (maybe)original to the car. So I just started planning what would it take to just redo it all. I'll check the rod ends and see how they are.
Thanks for the tip on poly bushings for the forward struts. I have a Prothane kit that came with the car with everything in it, front and rear, but I'll avoid the strut bushings if they cause too much stress or not enough movement.
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72 Javelin SST P code 360/auto/AC/rear defrost /Go Pack/Polar White w blue cord interior.
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CamJam
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Joined: Jan/04/2014 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 6548 |
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Posted: Feb/14/2020 at 11:43pm |
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I just had an experience with one of the metal sleeves that goes inside the strut rod bushings being too long. It meant that there was still slop in the bushing when it was tightened down to the factory torque spec. It would occasionally clunk when backing out of my driveway too. I drove the car that way for over a year and my alignment guy only found it when he couldn't get enough caster dialed in on one side. The answer was simply to cut the sleeve down. Not sure all this time later what brand it was, if it came that way from the bushing manufacturer or someone just grabbed the wrong sleeve during installation. Just make sure both halves of your strut rod bushings are fully compressed when you're done. One half of mine (two piece bushing) you could spin by hand, but just viewing it from the outside it looked to be properly compressed. Up on the rack, viewing from the inside, it was obvious that it wasn't. Maybe someone here can tell us what the correct length of those sleeves should be.
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'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST '69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD  |
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rsrguy3
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Joined: Jun/24/2012 Location: Utah Status: Offline Points: 673 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 4:25pm |
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I'm personally not a fan of the squeaky urethane stuff, but I was surprised after perusing the web that there are no polygraphite bushings, the PG bushings came on the screen in the 90's, any reason you guys can think of that I can't find any for the 71 jav?
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javguy
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 4:36pm |
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I think the poly kit has the correct length steel sleeve for fitting poly bushings. I would not use the factory style steel sleeve. I modded my poly bushings, and used thick teflon washers to remove squeeks, while running dry. Zero maintenance. I still have a few washers, if your interested. Let me know, and I sort out my extras.. you'll need one per Poly bush. Many use just the front poly bush with rear being rubber.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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AMXRWB
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Joined: Apr/25/2013 Location: Midwest Status: Online Points: 1153 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 4:49pm |
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How many auto part stores did I buy lifetime warranty parts from over the years then they go broke and close.No more of that for me.
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PHAT69AMX
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5919 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 10:37pm |
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^
 AMXRWB
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tomj wrote:
