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Need help to get trans to motor bolts out

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raser13 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raser13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Need help to get trans to motor bolts out
    Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 6:55pm
Hey guys, I feel stupid for asking this but here it goes. I've got a '75 gremlin in my local bone yard that has a three speed stickbwich I'm getting for free. Sorry, I don't know what the designation of the tranny is or I'd put it. It's attached to a 232 if that helps. I need info from you Gremmy guys on how to get the top three bolts off the danged car! The tranny tunnel and the fire wall are so close to thia thing that I can't find a way to get and end wrench or a socket wrench in there. Even with extensions.

There's the little wall on the bell housing that are on either side of the bolt head. So a ebd wrench can't get in there on the only good available angle. And the fire wall and tunnel are to close to get. A ratchet in there anywhere. And its in the middle of a junkyard. So I don't have access to my normal array of tools and pickers. So any help would be great. I know I'm just overlooking that one simple step.


I planing to put it in my javelin just to get it back on the road while I find a better cheap tranny for it. I know it's not made to go behind a V8, but I'm just planning to get her cruizing again.
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Fluffy73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 7:07pm
The easiest way I've ever come up with is to have about 4-5 12" extensions at the ready, and with the motor still bolted in, drop the trans crossmember. The tail should sag down enough that with your colossal extension set at the ready, you can reach the top 3 bolts with enough room to swing the ratchet at the back of the trans.

Yes, the small body AMC's are a complete pain in the posterior.
I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 7:53pm
Exactly what he said. You may want a swivel at the very end of your 4' long extension, just before the socket.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 8:03pm
Either the above or take off the breather, get a step stool, place your feet (hope they are less then size 10) on the sub frame and use a box end wrench to take them out of the block. They will not clear the bell to fire wall but will enable removal of the transmission or engine.
A PITA, but if you don't have access to a lift, less time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 8:11pm
If getting to the bolts from below seems too hard (or you don't have a long enough extension, and offset 9/16 box end wrench from above will do the trick.  I keep such a wrench just for that job.  Joe
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raser13 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raser13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 9:54pm
 Thanks for the answers guys. I'm an avid user of extensions so I have that part covered. Lol. I'll have to see if I can jack up the car and see if I can find enough rims or something similar to stack up and set the car on. Right now there's not alot of clearance. I'm in missouri so we've had a lot of rain, and supposed to be getting 5 more days of it. So it's a bit muddy where the car is. Today I had to put a board under my jack and a rim under my jacket and to stop them from sinking dangerously into the mud. Here's hoping I have a tranny out tomorrow!
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 11:01pm
ditto on the mile-long extentions. i use 3/8" drive for nearly everything, that marginally helps. i too use a swivel at the end. even the 1963 classic has the same issue.

from behind, back by the tailshaft/U-joint, from the passenger side, fewer encumbrances (exhaust, shifter, speedo junk, etc). a REALLY BRIGHT LIGHT, one o' them new-fangled COB LED flashlight things.

it's tedious as heck, but not "hard". snake it up, feel around, maybe go under the hood and see where the socket is relative t the bolt. maybe you can get two fingers in there to guide the socket onto the hex, then crawl back under to wrench it.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2019 at 9:49am
The car's in the junk yard.  Punch holes thru the firewall and use a ratchet/socket.  A cordless drill and small hole saw will do the trick.

Bob
tufcj
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74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2019 at 1:03pm
One thing to consider -

I'm not sure what 3-spd trans models were used in which years, but if that's the version with no synchros on 1st gear the transmission is already shot. All of those had been pretty much ground up by 1984 or so.

That's approximately the last time I pulled a 3-spd trans from a Gremlin, and it was because mine (1972 base model) had lost 1st gear. Living in Duluth, MN you have to be able to downshift to 1st - the whole place is chiseled into the side of a rock mountain. Silly Frenchmen.

At the time someone figured out that a Gremlin X got a 3-spd tranny with synchros, and the only difference was slightly different shifter location.

The yard pulled it for me, like this:
1) Back up caterpillar until it rams into drivers door
2) Jump out onto roof of car with chain in hand
3) Smash chain hook thru passenger side quarter window and loop around b-pillar
4) Fire up Cat and pull Gremmie onto it's side
5) Fire up torch set and cut across driveshaft and crossmember on each side

At which point he handed me a wrench and told me to take out the bolts holding it to the bellhousing. Easy as pie 1984 junkyard procedure.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2019 at 4:42pm
Originally posted by Greyhounds_AMX Greyhounds_AMX wrote:

One thing to consider -

I'm not sure what 3-spd trans models were used in which years, but if that's the version with no synchros on 1st gear the transmission is already shot. All of those had been pretty much ground up by 1984 or so.

That's approximately the last time I pulled a 3-spd trans from a Gremlin, and it was because mine (1972 base model) had lost 1st gear. Living in Duluth, MN you have to be able to downshift to 1st - the whole place is chiseled into the side of a rock mountain. Silly Frenchmen.

At the time someone figured out that a Gremlin X got a 3-spd tranny with synchros, and the only difference was slightly different shifter location.

The yard pulled it for me, like this:
1) Back up caterpillar until it rams into drivers door
2) Jump out onto roof of car with chain in hand
3) Smash chain hook thru passenger side quarter window and loop around b-pillar
4) Fire up Cat and pull Gremmie onto it's side
5) Fire up torch set and cut across driveshaft and crossmember on each side

At which point he handed me a wrench and told me to take out the bolts holding it to the bellhousing. Easy as pie 1984 junkyard procedure.
the 1975 has a T150. All synchro 3 spd.  Id get the clutch linkage as well.  Everything.  
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