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Ford Contour Fans |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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I'd still run the way I do -- one on with AC, both on two different t-stat switches. You can get a two stage thermo switch rather cheap, so you only need one sending unit mount. This video has all the info, including part numbers and what you need to do to adapt the BMW sensor to a classic American car. Two reasons for this -- 1) while your engine is running you're always generating electricity, but the more load on the alternator the more drag on the engine. Why run both fans when only one is needed? 2) If both fans come on at the same time you're pulling a LOT of amps -- 60-100 at once in a surge. The fans only pull 15-20A running, but they surge 40-50A when starting. Oh, you can overcool an engine also. AMC engines were all made to run around 195 degrees, even the old 50s models. Nash was one of the first to use 195 degree thermostats, mainly for economy reasons. That's one reason the heaters were so well known!
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Frank Swygert
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Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4826 |
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When a fan is running while going down the road at highway speeds, the fan will actually impeded airflow thru the radiator so that's not a good idea IMO. Put one of these in https://www.amazon.com/Vintage-Air-11086-VUS-Trinary-Switch/dp/B005JVOBFK (there's some cheaper ones out the too) and hook it up like this diagram shows. This way the fans only run when needed. No need for override switches either. You're making this overly complicated. |
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"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
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scott
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Wildwood Pa. Status: Offline Points: 3501 |
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I saw the title to this thread & thought it was going to be about people that like Ford Contours. Then, as a former Contour owner, I thought there is no way anyone could be a fan of these cars. My Contour was enough to put me off of Ford products for life.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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II'm going to need to use a two speed controller through that big factory Contour resistor, I think! The fans are a bit loud on high. Running on high works well, but I also don't have a delay cut-off. The fan wired as the factory Jeep auxiliary/AC fan turns off with the ignition switch. The main cooling fan is just wired to the battery through the temp controller. So the fan runs a couple minutes until the radiator cools off. Not an issue as long as the controller is working. The normal fail is that it cuts power and won't power the fan, but there is a (remote) possibility the contacts could fuse and leave the fan on until the battery drains... not real concerned about that though. This is when you most notice the fan is loud on high... engine off and fan running. I don't like running through a resistor for low speed much, but it obviously didn't bother Ford engineers, and I'm not going to pretend I know better. I don't like using a resistor because it wastes power... uses as much about as much as fan on high. I could use another relay and just shut the fan off with the ignition. That won't hurt anything, mechanical fans shut off with engine. On high with AC on engine temp stays under 190 unless I run a lot in town, and as low as 180 (195 t-stat). Obviously high speed isn't necessary that often. I'm letting it go for now, but will be looking hard at 304_dudes AC wiring in the HVAC section (under Body/Interior). Edited by farna - Jun/23/2019 at 10:44am |
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Frank Swygert
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Hi farna, i noticed you may need some help on getting better control on your fans with what you have setup. I did not want to muddy up your thread with mine, and figured you would contact me if need be. Though greyhounds has made a recent thread on the Contour fan setup with AMC radiators. Let me grasp some of the setup you have, as to add my thoughts on what can be done. I got a bulk purchace on high current Schottky diodes... their very low voltage drop makes for zero loss of power to the fans if needing to add a switched power source, without effecting isolation of primary or secondary fan. Can send you one at price of mailing, if you find a need for it. Its large enough to take current and be safe with shrink wrap or electrical wire if wanting to cover. Its diameter is about the equivelent of 10 awg wire around its jacketing. I can throw in a stainless clip to hold the diode in place and act like a heat sink if wanting to isolate it to the fender or upper support. You may find greyhounds info helpful as well. Just a side note... if you want to control the main fan can have an adjustable timed relay, which is in my thread. They run about $10 or less each. Some dont have as long of a delay, given 2 minutes max is good enough, usually with a powerful main fan, 1 minute should allow time for engine to cool when ignition is off. Also since you state how loud the fan is, and its probably more powerful than needed... a pwm module can be adjusted for a lower speed that is easier on the ears. Our Honda has some noisey fans, and can be heard in the house from the garage door entrance. Though we are use to it, until we drive the Toyota. So i understand the noise shock from such a noise difference. Edited by 304-dude - Jun/23/2019 at 11:43am |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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rsrguy3
AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/24/2012 Location: Utah Status: Offline Points: 673 |
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Good dope, thanks for hacking your way through it and sharing.
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javguy
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