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Ford 8.8 conversion

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mixed up View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2018 at 6:42am
agree any factory ls as its limits and as far as cost and availability hands down the 8.8 is the best candidate for a swap in these cars it used to be most ford 8 or 9 inch  every car out there had one and now the 8.8 is the  rear end  every ford rear wheel drive has one  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote one bad rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2018 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

Originally posted by Jmerican Jmerican wrote:

I don’t like the stock limited slip from ford. Yes, the 8.8 is cheap in a junkyard. Yes, tons of aftermarket carriers avail. To me, the stock LS diff is a piece of junk. The factory AMC Power lock style with ramps is a winner, hands down. And the AMC rear is meant to fit, looks right, and has good engineering. Put some better brakes and shafts in one, and its solid. People hassle these 8.8 into Jeeps too. I don’t get it. Some of the truck units have big tubes or stepped tubes, but so what. 

As this has been discussed before,  if you have an open, low geared AMC 20 and you're adding some decent power to the car, the cost of upgrading the 20 gets pretty high and it still has its limitations. The LS unit in the 100k mile 8.8 unit I had worked great. Laid down a perfect pair of black lines every time. LOL  Just because you don't like them doesn't mean they're junk.
....Agreed...First off they make an updated preload spring...the axle`s are bigger...the tubes are much bigger...and the disc breaks help hold the tire on if you should break an axle....all the parts are cheaper and easier to get...you can do rotors and pads for as cheap as 30 buck`s total and you don`t have to deal with flakey venders (Not all are flakey) we are running a turbo car in the mid 7`s with a 8.8 yes with upgraded parts but has never failed
68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 12:02am
Back in 1973 I built a rear for my 70 AMX. Had Ken Keir weld the tubes in and brace the mounts. Used a
AMC 4.44 gear set and put one extra steel in the clutch pack ( a 390 left hand thread unit ).  Henrys axles rounded out the install. Have made many, many  6000rpm hole shots with 9'' slicks over the years with no problems. I see no reason to change rear housings to Ford or Mopar unless you are deep in the 10's.
 
There is really no reason to use rear discs unless you are running a high horsepower road race car. AMX's and other short wheelbase cars will swap ends in a second anyway. Ford used 11" discs and 9" drums on Fox Mustangs for the right braking balance and 10" rear drums on Fox wagons.
 
I also have a Fox body Mercury Zephyr that I added a Mustang 8.8 and T-Bird rear discs to. Had to put a proportioning valve on it to dial down the rear pressure so the rear didn't lock up first even with a 109" wheelbase.
 
AMC-20's have 29 spline axles which are slightly stronger than 28 spline Fords, both 8.8"& 9" rears. 31 spline Fords are stronger of coarse, but, with them you need a nodular center section, Daytona pinion support and a big bearing housing and brakes. Of coarse you will have to figure out an e-brake system and fluid lines too.
 
So maybe it's better to modify your AMC-20, it was for me, your choice.
 
Good luck,
 
Ron.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 9:46am
The AMC20 29 spline is actually a fair bit stronger than the Ford 28 spline.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 10:06am
I don't believe anyone is arguing that an AMC 20 cannot be built better or be better then the Ford 8.8.
The problem for many is part availability and cost comparison.
Many parts of North America you cannot locally find an AMC 20 let alone one that fits your specific needs. Then you have the cost of upgrading it.
For my location, I can buy 4 Ford 8.8's complete with disk brakes for the cost of one piece AMC 20 axles.
Then both need work but the Ford 8.8, I can get parts locally at a fraction of the cost.

Example would be a friend just spun a hub last year. He looked at the cost of finding, buying and shipping in an AMC 20 for an axle or solid axles vs putting in a Ford 8.8. The Ford 8.8 with modification was far cheaper. 

And don't even go to find a Ford 9", MIA, unless your willing to sell your first born. 


Edited by Trader - Jan/09/2019 at 10:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tufcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 12:35pm
The Explorer 8.8 I put in my Rogue cost me $110 out the door with rotors and calipers (3.73, posi) at the local pull-n-save.  The extra short axle was $20.  It cost me $135 at a local shop to have the long side of the housing narrowed for 2 short axles and tanked.  I have a total of $265 invested.  The axles in the Explorer 8.8 are 31 spline.

Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70BBOAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 7:29pm
The Explorer 8.8 in my 1994 Jeep Wrangler was a breeze to swap in. Just weld on some spring perches and shock mounts. The width was very close to stock. The driveshaft didn't even need to be modified. The stock posi did not care for rock crawling with 33 inch tires though and I bought a slightly used Richmond Traction system ( no setup required) on ebay for $400. So for a total of $600 I have a 31 spline 3.73 locked 5 on 4.5 disc brake axle. It has performed flawlessly on the street and trail for over 15 years. Whats not to love?
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